Put the rear on my uncle's car yesterday, I think the rear slide pin/bore may have been a little dickered on one side since the boot was torn and got water in it and the pad's wearing in a little skewed, he only drives maybe 1000mi a year and the car's already a rust bucket, I guess by the time the skewed wear becomes a problem the brakes will probably have already reached the end of their life because of corrosion or the car will have already been scrapped. The passenger side front I had to drive all the way to Indianapolis to get a rebuilt caliper bracket from Autozone since one of the pins was absolutely seized and no local place had the bracket. But I put on Raybestos Elemet 3 rotors all around and Wagner OEX Pads, used Sil-glyde on the pins, except on the new bracket I used what was already applied in the bores, I used the moly grease that came with the front pads to lube all the pad ears and underneath the hardware except I didn't put any under the hardware on the new one since it's painted anyways and I was running out of my 2grams of grease. The rear hardware was a pain to remove it was rusted badly, on the driver's side it was so bad I have to file most of the remains out.
Post your latest brake job
- Thread starter BMW Dom
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Put the rear on my uncle's car yesterday, I think the rear slide pin/bore may have been a little dickered on one side since the boot was torn and got water in it and the pad's wearing in a little skewed, he only drives maybe 1000mi a year and the car's already a rust bucket, I guess by the time the skewed wear becomes a problem the brakes will probably have already reached the end of their life because of corrosion or the car will have already been scrapped. The passenger side front I had to drive all the way to Indianapolis to get a rebuilt caliper bracket from Autozone since one of the pins was absolutely seized and no local place had the bracket. But I put on Raybestos Elemet 3 rotors all around and Wagner OEX Pads, used Sil-glyde on the pins, except on the new bracket I used what was already applied in the bores, I used the moly grease that came with the front pads to lube all the pad ears and underneath the hardware except I didn't put any under the hardware on the new one since it's painted anyways and I was running out of my 2grams of grease. The rear hardware was a pain to remove it was rusted badly, on the driver's side it was so bad I have to file most of the remains out.
Wife’s 2015 Lincoln MKC at 102,000 miles needed back brakes and I wanted to knock it out before we go on vacation… I also did this job about 3 years/40,000 miles ago and I’m very happy that while the pads were about done, they wore evenly and there was far less corrosion versus when I replaced the stock brakes three years ago. All went smoothly and is back together and working well…
Off - Raybestos Element 3 rotors and pads
On - Carquest platinum rotors and gold pads. The rotors look great and are painted on non contact surfaces.
Off - Raybestos Element 3 rotors and pads
On - Carquest platinum rotors and gold pads. The rotors look great and are painted on non contact surfaces.
My 2013 Mercedes CLS 63 AMG needed new rotors and pads after 38.000 miles.
Zimmermann Formula Z rotors and EBC Yellowstuff pads.
Zimmermann Formula Z rotors and EBC Yellowstuff pads.
Decided to do the "Big Brake Dual Piston" caliper upgrade on the Kia.
The gist is Hyundai Azera/XG Dual piston calipers will bolt up perfectly on the forte.. And they did! (must have the larger 303MM brake rotors) These Azera calipers brand new (MANDO Branded- OEM supplier) is 122$ CHEAPER per calipers VS AutoZone rebuilt without core.
Brakes have never felt this confident inspiring. The brake pedal has a phenomenal initial bite without feeling artificially responsive, and only gets better with a very linear progressive response until ABS activation long before I run out of pedal or brake.
Would recommend 10/10.
The gist is Hyundai Azera/XG Dual piston calipers will bolt up perfectly on the forte.. And they did! (must have the larger 303MM brake rotors) These Azera calipers brand new (MANDO Branded- OEM supplier) is 122$ CHEAPER per calipers VS AutoZone rebuilt without core.
Brakes have never felt this confident inspiring. The brake pedal has a phenomenal initial bite without feeling artificially responsive, and only gets better with a very linear progressive response until ABS activation long before I run out of pedal or brake.
Would recommend 10/10.
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Here we go again. Someone on the forum has my dream car. Say it has the P30 package and I’ll fall out of my seat
Nothing really special nor unusual. Replaced the right rear slave brake cylinder in the ol' 1998 crv. It is a drum brake style. Found out when I noticed the brake drum there was not getting warm unlike the other side after a drive. Opened up, the slave cylinder was leaking and got the brake shoes wet, hence no friction when applying the brakes.
I'm old school, time was when we'd hone the inside bore with a honing tool, then replace the rubber parts. But my honing tool is too large for this model. Even if I did have the suitable honing tool, I'm not sure it's easy to find a kit that has only the rubber parts. It is faster and more convenient to just replace the whole slave unit.
I'm old school, time was when we'd hone the inside bore with a honing tool, then replace the rubber parts. But my honing tool is too large for this model. Even if I did have the suitable honing tool, I'm not sure it's easy to find a kit that has only the rubber parts. It is faster and more convenient to just replace the whole slave unit.
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Thought I had posted here 3 weeks ago, guess not. Pad slap before state inspection. These are OE GM front rotors at 6 yo, 45k (if BMW would look new!). Akebono ProACT which have been in our stable maybe 17 years across 3 cars. Never seem to make any noise no matter what rotors are used. I have rotors for next time around. Again, on this car as the others, rears wear faster by about 10k.
Get crazy and treat yourself at least to a sliding F-clamp. Common at any LWS
However since getting the Snappy BTCP2SA I don't even fumble with welding clamps and old pads anymore. Not cheap, but better second hand on ebay
Just had new rear brakes installed on my wife's CR-V along with new calipers. Just had them all done 40kish ago along with calipers. Not sure if this is an issue with this car or just my place telling me that rear calipers are a common issue. Also had to get a new wheel bearing for the side that the caliper was siezed. Some exhaust work too.
2012 Honda Odyssey
167k miles, 82k on the old pads
Off: Raybestos EHT
On: Wagner OEX Ceramic
Wagner coated rotors are about 8 mo old. The new pads fit perfectly - much better than the Raybestos which had to be filed down to fit in the bracket.
167k miles, 82k on the old pads
Off: Raybestos EHT
On: Wagner OEX Ceramic
Wagner coated rotors are about 8 mo old. The new pads fit perfectly - much better than the Raybestos which had to be filed down to fit in the bracket.
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Are others finding rear pads wear faster than fronts? Imho the reason I know is 2/3 cars were purchased new, and on 1 occasion with 2/3 cars, I did all 4 pads/rotors at the same time. So I could see next time around rears shot (1 to squealers) while fronts fine. Last piece of the puzzle is on the 335, reset the computer and front pads start at 2x the rears.
Prior to traction and stability, from what I observed over 20 years, front pads wear faster than rears (physics would seem to support that).
Prior to traction and stability, from what I observed over 20 years, front pads wear faster than rears (physics would seem to support that).
2020 Honda Odyssey 45k
Off Carquest rotors and pads CarMax installed when I bought the van about 9 months ago 15k miles. The front rotor had deep grooving and grinding at slow speeds. Always felt confident, stopping no shaking the wheel just a really deep grooving still had a lot of pad life left.
On Duralast Gold pads and rotors. I’ve had good luck with them in the past. See how it goes.
Off Carquest rotors and pads CarMax installed when I bought the van about 9 months ago 15k miles. The front rotor had deep grooving and grinding at slow speeds. Always felt confident, stopping no shaking the wheel just a really deep grooving still had a lot of pad life left.
On Duralast Gold pads and rotors. I’ve had good luck with them in the past. See how it goes.
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on BMW for sure
My rear CBS went 50k expected for Front and 30k for rear
The rears are programmed to bite harder before the front and are used more on gentle braking
Also, cruise control uses the rear brakes
Don't forget the rears are smaller
2005 Lexus LS430
Off - white box rotors, Advics aftermarket pads
On - Durago coated rotors, Akebono ProACT pads.
In hindsight, I should have went OE but this was on a Sunday and the dealership was closed. I was going to gamble with Duralast Gold.
Off - white box rotors, Advics aftermarket pads
On - Durago coated rotors, Akebono ProACT pads.
In hindsight, I should have went OE but this was on a Sunday and the dealership was closed. I was going to gamble with Duralast Gold.
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One annoyance for me is when the rear brakes grab, as I take off from a stop....sometimes I stay off the brake on purpose so they won't. Wonder if any modern manual cars, omit the hill holder feature
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OE is super expensive (I have an '06). The selling dealership did OE front brake job, as part of the sale, and I got all the hardware returned in the Lexus boxes. I remember the service manager telling me there are some really pricey components you got, they were told to replace the caliper bolts by Lexus (this was Buick GMC) and the sensor wire was ridiculous. At the time I thought it was exaggeration since a OEM BMW sensor wire is $13, OE maybe $28, how expensive can a Lexus part possibly be (today $134.78)?
Since my car still has the Toyota OE front rotors (I need to swap them out), I really don't think they are worth it....usually $90+ online plus shipping. Centrics really do look the same--same x-hatching, only difference is Centrics are painted black, and Toyota painted gray. For me, no noise with Akebono ProActs on all 4, and Centric rotors in the rear. I plan on replacing the OE front rotors with Centrics which I already have.
