People saying to change your oil at 1000 miles on new vehicle.

[buster]

The first UOA we often see is never extremely high in wear metals. PPM are always <50ppm or so across the board. With that said, there is probably no urgency to change. I do cut the first OCI short though around 1-3k miles just to reset.

 

[The_Sheriff]

Please explain how CAFE standards and requirements affect the difference between m'cycle and automobile oil change intervals. Frankly, I am skeptical of about your assertion, but I would like to be educated and shown that my skepticism is unfounded.

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Shel, are you a motorcyclist? What exactly is it that you are wanting to know? I’m telling you, the shared system is the reason. Clutch material, gears, and engine. That is potentially alot of crap to remove from the oil, so that is the reason for the early change. Just think about it for a moment. Motorcycles are under alot of dynamic forces compared to the average car.

They are typically much higher revving engines than a car, banging gears, missed shifts, and general squiddy behavior from many riders. I’ve had many bikes that redline above 10k rpm, and believe me, I used it because they’re fun as heck. Of course, during break in you’re not supposed to rev the snot out of them but most do, and I think the manufacturers are fully aware of that.

After the early initial change it goes to a more normal service interval; 4, 6, 10k depending on manufacturer.

 

[DuckRyder]

Couple other things.

Motorcycles are generally not fully assembled from the factory requiring various amounts of assembly but often handlebars and front wheels. Additionally the last time I was involved neither Honda or Kawasaki came filled from the factory so manufacturer had no control over what was used (admittedly this was a long time ago) so early service is a way to get it back in and check it over. CBR 600 is what a 16,000 rpm motor too right?

 

[KrisZ]

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Most motorcycles have a shared system. Crankcase and transmission use the same oil so that is why they call for an early oil change. After that it can be anywhere from 6K to 10K depending on manufacturer. Harley Davidson big twins and Moto Guzzi twins are two motorcycles that come to mind that do not use a shared system, and there are probably others too. But the vast majority of motorcycles use a shared system.
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I don’t think the shared system has anything to do with the early break in oil change. Many BMW models have dry clutches and I’m pretty sure they still change the oil at 600 mile initial break in inspection.

And for the most part, these motors are far more advanced than your average car engine and likely have better facilities and manufacturing standards, yet they dump the initial oil early.

 

[Ride_Red]

On both of my current motorcycles, I did initial 100 mile oil changes. Both had a lot of glitter in the oil. I then did 600 mile oil changes and there was more glitter in the oil. I then did the next oil changes at around 2500-ish miles on the odometer and the oil had minimal or no glitter.

Now, my Honda NC700X (parallel twin, water cooled, wet clutch) gets an oil change every 1-2 years, depending on mileage or a maximum of two years. The Honda ST1300 (V4, water cooled, wet clutch) gets 1-2 oil changes per year, depending on mileage. Neither bike uses any oil between oil changes.

 

[The_Sheriff]

I don’t think the shared system has anything to do with the early break in oil change. Many BMW models have dry clutches and I’m pretty sure they still change the oil at 600 mile initial break in inspection.

And for the most part, these motors are far more advanced than your average car engine and likely have better facilities and manufacturing standards, yet they dump the initial oil early.

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So what’s the reason? Is a BMW dry clutch twin anymore advanced of an engine than one of their automobiles? I don’t know. I do know that a shared system has plenty of crud in the oil at 600 miles (or less) as I have seen it with my own two eyes.

The initial 600 miles service on any motorcycle, shared sump or not, involves any number of inspection and adjustment points as needed. Checking for nuts and bolts being properly torqued, headstock, spokes if so equipped, chain adjustment if equipped, etcetera. Some brands such as BMW are way more advanced in their electronics than, for instance, my Royal Enfield 650 P twin. So is the BMW first service rather considerable, requiring being hooked up to the dealers computer? I don’t know.

My RE does require its first service at 300 miles including a valve inspection. 300 miles seemed early to me but I am glad I did it. Plenty of glitter in the oil and a couple of the exhaust valves were out of spec.

Motorcycles just seem to require more maintenance as compared to a car. It is not an inexpensive hobby. They go through tires quickly and most require periodic valve adjustments to name just a couple of things.

 

[KrisZ]

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So what’s the reason? Is a BMW dry clutch twin anymore advanced of an engine than one of their automobiles? I don’t know. I do know that a shared system has plenty of crud in the oil at 600 miles (or less) as I have seen it with my own two eyes.

The initial 600 miles service on any motorcycle, shared sump or not, involves any number of inspection and adjustment points as needed. Checking for nuts and bolts being properly torqued, headstock, spokes if so equipped, chain adjustment if equipped, etcetera. Some brands such as BMW are way more advanced in their electronics than, for instance, my Royal Enfield 650 P twin. So is the BMW first service rather considerable, requiring being hooked up to the dealers computer? I don’t know.

My RE does require its first service at 300 miles including a valve inspection. 300 miles seemed early to me but I am glad I did it. Plenty of glitter in the oil and a couple of the exhaust valves were out of spec.

Motorcycles just seem to require more maintenance as compared to a car. It is not an inexpensive hobby. They go through tires quickly and most require periodic valve adjustments to name just a couple of things.

We can only speculate. Non shared sumps have break in crud as well, perhaps to a lesser extent, but it’s still there.
Plus, bikers usually don’t nickel and dime the maintenance. There are no lifetime fluids or super long OCIs. So manufacturers can specify what’s best instead of catering to the lowest maintenance cost.

 

[slomo]

What proof is out there for these people to say you need to do your first oil change at 1000 miles for longevity, when the does not have anything in it?

Every new engine, don't care what name is on it, will have break in metal flakes ALL throughout the block and pan. Oil filters do not catch it. You must do oil and filter dumps early and often. As in say 50 miles, 100 miles and so on till the metal is gone.

 

[B6_Dolphin]

Every new engine, don't care what name is on it, will have break in metal flakes ALL throughout the block and pan. Oil filters do not catch it. You must do oil and filter dumps early and often. As in say 50 miles, 100 miles and so on till the metal is gone.

The (wear) metal(s) is never completely gone, as shown below.

On new vehicles, I generally change @ 1k miles, and then a 4-5k miles OCI after that.

For example, I'll use this UOA @ 19,215 miles on my 2017 Infiniti Q60 Red Sport with 3.0L TT V6. It took about 10k miles before the wear metals (Al, CU, & Fe) stabilized. Although spec'd for 0W20, I used Valvoline Modern Engine (now, Extended Protection) 5W30 w/Nissan OEM filter.

 

[Leo99]

Every new engine, don't care what name is on it, will have break in metal flakes ALL throughout the block and pan. Oil filters do not catch it. You must do oil and filter dumps early and often. As in say 50 miles, 100 miles and so on till the metal is gone.

You didn't provide any proof as the OP requested. Do you have any data showing that engines with oil and filter changes at 50 or 100 miles last longer than engines that have their first oil change at 10,000 miles?

 

[Cujet]

What proof is out there for these people to say you need to do your first oil change at 1000 miles for longevity, when the does not have anything in it?

6 weeks ago, I purchased a 2024 F150 with the 5.0 V8. Changed the oil just after 1000 miles. It came out quite dirty, with maybe just a hint of the faintest of sparkles in the FL sun. Used M1, at the required viscosity, 5W-30 EP meeting the WSS-M2C961-A1 Ford spec.

Interestingly, it picked up some oil pressure after the change.

This engine has a variable oil pressure pump, but it might be just a Low/High situation as it varies between two basic positions on the gauge. The needle does vary a little in use.

I will change the oil again at 5000.

 

[facility1]

have a new 2024 Subaru cross trek, took advantage of the free dealer oil change at 675 miles,they used (upon my request) 0w-20 Subaru (Idemitsu) oil, and I will change out again around 2k, Pennzoil ultra-Platinum & 0w-20 & Fram ultra filter. then do 5k or six-month intervals.

 

[Fishstyx]

The question to ask the OP is how often does he buy a new vehicle? Every year or every ten years? To drain the oil out at 500 miles to get the break in wear metals out is cheaper than the planned obsolescence that the manufacturer has put into their owners manual.

 

[demarpaint]

Wow, I go away for a week and another drain the FF early thread. I'll stick with dumping the factory fill early on my new vehicles. Regarding proof, early UOA on new engines shows high wear metals, I want them out early. I don't need any more proof than that, nor do I have to waste my time trying to prove anything to anyone here. There are hundreds of responses to these threads, if not thousands. Some pretty well respected members and engine builders concur, for me that's all the proof I need. As with everything Bitog, there are a lot of different POV here, do what you think is best.

 

[IveBeenRued]

This is from a 2021 Toyota RAV4 with 745 miles on it. As you can see, there is a whole lot of sparkles and metallic debris that came out which wasn’t caught by the filter.

Source: https://www.rav4world.com/threads/break-in-oil-change-w-pics.317167/

 

[Chris142]

My records show that I changed the oil in my Jeep when it had 1056 miles. I used Castrol 10w-30 and a Purolator filter.

203xxx miles later I am still driving it.

 

[tblt44]

No proof just feels right.
500-1000 on cars
About 1 hrs on small engines

 

[Patman]

I find it interesting that people will say that changing the oil at 1000 miles is a waste of money but then proceed to do 3000 mile oil changes for the life of the vehicle because “engines are expensive, oil is cheap”

 

[dbias]

What maniac goes 1,000 miles? I change mine at 700 lol

 

[demarpaint]

I find it interesting that people will say that changing the oil at 1000 miles is a waste of money but then proceed to do 3000 mile oil changes for the life of the vehicle because “engines are expensive, oil is cheap”

+1 Or buy an expensive boutique oil designed for extended drain intervals, dump it every 5K miles because they want to use "the very best oil" in their engine so it will last forever.