How are you reading oil temp?
Pentastar Owners! Any oil usage?
- Thread starter Glenda W.
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It’s an option on the cluster in the info center. Also has coolant and trans temp.
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Hope you had fun.
Yeah, the oil temp is one of the reasons I installed a 180* thermostat. Disabled DTC P0128 and adjusted fan temp thresholds. Real pain to bleed the air out with the bleeder being so low compared to the heads. Had to park it on a hillside to get the nose high.
Any simple options to manually turn on the fan? I haven’t researched much besides a start/stop disabler.
Gitcha, forgot you have a JL.
I compared Chryslers spec to ILSAC once, I believe it’s somewhere on this site… but they’re identical except at the time Chrysler was also requiring a 2 year taxi fleet test which was the ONLY difference. We also had an engineer from the Pentastar team on here tell us 0/5w20 was for fuel economy and 5w30 will protect the timing chains a bit better at a lower RPM.
You’ll need a tuner for that. 2015+ models need a security gateway bypass and an unlocked PCM, an $800+ proposition.
What do I need to look out for on our 2023 Ram Promaster 250 delivery van @ 25,000 miles? Is it the cooler itself or the tubing fittings issue? Is the leak dripping under the radiator area for me to spot the issue?
I also went down the spec research road a few years ago. Gained a huge understanding of the test sequences and compared them all. That engineer was a great asset here. Too bad he seems to have checked out. Thanks for the info on the fan.
My filter housing is coming up on 100k and is currently bone dry. They generally fill the valley then spill out onto the transmission.
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Not that I know of they work off PWM. There's a spoofer fan controller out there for $325.
Skippy722 is right about the costs involved. 2014 JK was just $100 for the license fee, granted I already have the $400 tuner. JL though...
HPT dongle - $400
HPT PCM Unlock - $249
2018+ Smart Access Cable - $89
Vehicle tuning license - $100
Probably one of those back burner things, but if you're going to make a habit of doing offroading adventures it'd be nice to figure out a way of keeping those temps reasonable.
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Thinking about it more maybe a further hurdle to tuning is whether there's a warranty situation. It sure is nice being able to adjust the tune, especially the lazy throttle response (ETC rate limits, driver demand). I even put the Challenger VCT schedule on because I didn't feel like setting up a custom one then using the neural network trainer for maybe 10hp. If you look at the most powerful NA production Pentastar it's in the RAM (305hp), but that's mostly due to exhaust system differences.
As you know, the oil is cooled by the coolant through a heat exchanger. The high temps are a combination of the OE thermostat and the fan enables. A JL fan controller on it's own will probably be enough. People seem to get good results. Idk since my experience is JK.
Another potential problem in changing regulated temp is the cooled EGR. Might coke up quicker with a cooler stat idk. Again, that's applicable to the JL due to engine design updates not found in the earlier JK.
On the oil side I guess one concern would be tracking the VI out to the temps you're seeing. Also gotta watch oil pressures over time to monitor for viscosity loss due to shear.
As you know, the oil is cooled by the coolant through a heat exchanger. The high temps are a combination of the OE thermostat and the fan enables. A JL fan controller on it's own will probably be enough. People seem to get good results. Idk since my experience is JK.
Another potential problem in changing regulated temp is the cooled EGR. Might coke up quicker with a cooler stat idk. Again, that's applicable to the JL due to engine design updates not found in the earlier JK.
On the oil side I guess one concern would be tracking the VI out to the temps you're seeing. Also gotta watch oil pressures over time to monitor for viscosity loss due to shear.
Two Pentastars, one with over 100k and the other at 58k. No usage at all.
My cousin has a 2018 JK with the gen 1 Pentastar and his is using a little bit of oil, but he's also got the infamous oil cooler housing leak. Not sure how much that lets go, but it could explain at least some of it.
Okay so remove the engine cover, shine a flashlight to the bottom of the oil filter housing, check for any oil in the valley any visible oil in the valley means the oil cooler is leaking. This is all going to be located at the top of the engine. The 3.2 and 3.6 are the ones that have cooler problems. Also if you experience coolant loss or oil loss the cooler is probably leaking. The cooler is plastic with rubber seals that are held down by 5 e torx screws. Auto tech
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It also spills down the back making you think it's the rear main seal.
If you get the metal housing be sure to buy a set of OEM o-rings. They're the only ones that stay sealed. The ones from the kit will squeeze out because they're too thick. Take your time pattern torquing to seat it squarely. Be careful tightening those bolts it's just 6mm thread pitch iirc into aluminum. Get an intake gasket set because it has to come off.
Also change the oil immediately after you replace the cooler. Coolant will enter the oil during the cooler replacement
