Pennzoil ultra 10w30 good for extreme winter cold?

Astro14

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You have advocated for using tires past manufacturer recommendations. Now oil?

The shelf life is more than just a matter of “drop out of solution”; just as other complex chemical formulations, like pharmaceuticals, or food, have a shelf life, so do some of the additives. Their performance degrades over time.

You’re free to do as you choose with your fleet of flippers and beaters, but ignoring manufacturer recommendations is hardly good advice.
 
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Hi all I have some Pennzoil ultra synthetic I bought on clearance at autozone,2013. Got 2 bottles 5w30, 3 10w30. 4.5 quart sump.wanna use them this coming oil change. I seen thier data sheets... Minus 49 F pour point!. ....Think 10w30 Ultra will be fine?
I just ran 10W30 QSFS in my Ford 2.0 because it is a diluter with D.I. and was killing 5w20 oils.
I should have a UOA on this 7 month run by end of October.

Ran it at the end of winter with some 20F starts. Ran fine. Got improved fuel mileage over the 5W20 long term average.
____________________________________________

Just a note, the datasheet pour points are in deg. Celcius - unless you did the conversion.

My QSFS 10W30 SN plus shows a pour of -54 C (-65 F) and for @kschachn a MRV (-30 C ) 8500 cP
 
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And here I thought this was going to be about actual cold temperatures...

At the temps being discussed, I'd use 5w30 or 10w30 with no reservations. I sometimes think that most of the members here would drop over dead when they learned that the vast majority of vehicles on the road in this area don't use 0w whatever in the winter... Which I acknowledge is different than what is "best".

The fact the oil is the age it is is what I would be focused on, and likely using it in something else. (And is an exhibit on why I don't keep giant stocks of oil either... )
 
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You have advocated for using tires past manufacturer recommendations. Now oil?

The shelf life is more than just a matter of “drop out of solution”; just as other complex chemical formulations, like pharmaceuticals, or food, have a shelf life, so do some of the additives. Their performance degrades over time.

You’re free to do as you choose with your fleet of flippers and beaters, but ignoring manufacturer recommendations is hardly good advice.
the DP/AP is in solution in a saturated Alkane. A highly stable fluid at room temp.

The pure metal Sodium is stored under mineral oil.

Of course any proper professional advice would be to follow general guidelines and the Manufacturer's recommendation.

I might guess they are being very conservative, though

- Ken
 
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You have advocated for using tires past manufacturer recommendations. Now oil?

The shelf life is more than just a matter of “drop out of solution”; just as other complex chemical formulations, like pharmaceuticals, or food, have a shelf life, so do some of the additives. Their performance degrades over time.

You’re free to do as you choose with your fleet of flippers and beaters, but ignoring manufacturer recommendations is hardly good advice.
Manufacturers of tires and oil as well as countless other products, have an incentive to make such recommendations. To make more sales. On pharmaceuticals or food where using said products after their expiration date could make you sick, it makes sense, even though many experts say the dates aren't carved in stone. My current flipper was running on 11 year old oil from being in storage with no ill effects, so I don't think oil in sealed bottles go bad any quicker.
 
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Back on topic - this is 9+ year old oil, right? Bought on clearance in 2013?

Probably had been sitting on the shelf for a year or two before that, so, I’m not sure I would use it at all.

I think I’d recycle it and buy new…
OP can ship it to me if he's so inclined, I have a Subaru that would run that without concern :cool:
 
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Back on topic - this is 9+ year old oil, right? Bought on clearance in 2013?

Probably had been sitting on the shelf for a year or two before that, so, I’m not sure I would use it at all.

I think I’d recycle it and buy new…
Shake it up and use it with no concerns. I have done it many times. You can send me your old, unopened oil anytime.
 

ziggy

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Can't think of any car made the last 20 years that spec'd 10W30, so unless this is an older model, why not use the recommended oil now and save the 10W30 for spring? Will it cause problems? Not likely, but if you get a cold snap, the engine might be slow to turn over and if the battery is weak, might not start.
 

ziggy

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It's a1998 Buick LeSabre .
Years ago,90s I had a 85 Isuzu I mark hatchback early 2000s a 95 neon. January,February I used quaker state dino then.5 w30.turning key,the listings would go up n down but no oil.the noise it made..was lie a muffled cow mooo or something. 3-5 seconds would go by then regular engine noise,valve clatter. That oil took 3-7 seconds in 17 degree temps too reach top of engine. Both cars. So made me wonder,the Pennzoil ultra. Low our point,but it's a 10w30...makes me wonder if it's really safe too use in 17 degree weather .safe as a n fast to get all over piston n top head engine.
 
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It's a1998 Buick LeSabre .
Years ago,90s I had a 85 Isuzu I mark hatchback early 2000s a 95 neon. January,February I used quaker state dino then.5 w30.turning key,the listings would go up n down but no oil.the noise it made..was lie a muffled cow mooo or something. 3-5 seconds would go by then regular engine noise,valve clatter. That oil took 3-7 seconds in 17 degree temps too reach top of engine. Both cars. So made me wonder,the Pennzoil ultra. Low our point,but it's a 10w30...makes me wonder if it's really safe too use in 17 degree weather .safe as a n fast to get all over piston n top head engine.


I missed something here.
 
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It's a1998 Buick LeSabre .
Years ago,90s I had a 85 Isuzu I mark hatchback early 2000s a 95 neon. January,February I used quaker state dino then.5 w30.turning key,the listings would go up n down but no oil.the noise it made..was lie a muffled cow mooo or something. 3-5 seconds would go by then regular engine noise,valve clatter. That oil took 3-7 seconds in 17 degree temps too reach top of engine. Both cars. So made me wonder,the Pennzoil ultra. Low our point,but it's a 10w30...makes me wonder if it's really safe too use in 17 degree weather .safe as a n fast to get all over piston n top head engine.
Look at the bottom of this document https://www.mobil.com/en-bq/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-10w30
 
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Do you understand pour point -42 10W-30 oils are not an issue unless you live in a Climate much colder than most people.
Sure I do, that’s why I told the OP he could mail me the 10W30 for my EJ25 if he was so inclined. I also understand pour point and actual performance are different as well… I just read the bottom of the document like you asked us to… 😂
 
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Technically 10W will pump slightly below 0F. But you better have a very healthy battery. In my experience, I wouldn't use it below 32F
Pennzoil 10w30 ultra has a pour point of -45C that's -49f. I think it will flow fine at below 32F and I wouldn't worry about it until below 0F.

This oil is thinner then a lot of 5w30 synthetic oils that are available.
 
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Pennzoil 10w30 ultra has a pour point of -45C that's -49f. I think it will flow fine at below 32F and I wouldn't worry about it until below 0F.

This oil is thinner then a lot of 5w30 synthetic oils that are available.
Just my personal experience. Yes, it can be used as stated. BTW pour point is a meaningless specification unless you are changing the oil below those temperatures.
 
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BTW pour point is a meaningless specification unless you are changing the oil below those temperatures.
Pour Point is the temperature below which oil becomes plastic and will not flow. Flow as in gravity out of a bottle or pumped by a oil pump into oil passages. I wouldn't run this oil at -45C but it's fine at just below freezing up to -15C.
 
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