Pausing After Key On Before Cranking

[bullwinkle]

4.3 is reliable but i briefly owned a single cab short bed 2wd auto Silverado with it but it was inefficient. Traded it in for the sierra i have now with the 5.3 and it gets better millage with the same light driving.

I remember way back when, probably 1994 or so, when we got out first 4.3 powered S-10 company trucks (5 speed manuals). First time I drove one, rubber in first, second, and third! Loaded (well, lightly)! Unfortunately, my work DD was only a 2.8…

 

[bullwinkle]

Yes but basic running should be dead-nuts reliable. The guys that do the engine computer will give specs to the entertainment system, instrument panel, HVAC etc but will (should) allow the PCM to ignore those inputs if they're wonky or unavailable. Just make sure the anti-theft immobilizer is happy, then maybe throw a code if the rest of the modules don't wake up and communicate within ~30 seconds.

IIRC there's a Mercedes that develops major CANBUS issues if a side-view mirror gets knocked off. Not the car for me.

I had this on my ‘06 Cummins Ram-somehow the RADIO caused a check engine light! Apparently the CANBUS knows and sees all…

 

[JavierH19]

I remember way back when, probably 1994 or so, when we got out first 4.3 powered S-10 company trucks (5 speed manuals). First time I drove one, rubber in first, second, and third! Loaded (well, lightly)! Unfortunately, my work DD was only a 2.8…

It's funny how they offered the 4.3 in tucks as small as the s10 and as big as the 2500 back in the early 90's. A lot of motor for the s10 but nothing for the 2500.

 

[clinebarger]

Then there must be a reason my 03 never primes the system when the fuel pressure regulator failed on it. I'd put the key in the on position for a few seconds in hopes it'd run the fuel pump so it wouldn't dry start until I fixed it, i wouldn't hear anything outside with the door open. Even with that it would still take the same 4-5 seconds while cranking to start as if I didn't. On my 2021 i can hear the fuel pump priming before starting. But can't on those old ones. Don't know if something isn't working right.

A ruptured FPR diaphragm will cause loss of prime & starting issues, Just because you can't hear the pump prime for 2 seconds doesn't mean it didn't.

I can confidently say if you put your finger on the Fuel Pump Relay & have someone turn the key on.....You'd feel the relay activate for @ 2 seconds then feel it deactivate.

Never seen a P59 engine controller fail in a way where it won't prime but still activate the relay with RPM.

 

[billt460]

Agree. That is where the Check Engine Light comes on when faults are found.

Those things can be a 2 edged sword. I have one that keeps coming back after I clear it in my Jeep. The code is for, "A slight leak in the fuel evaporation system". Or some such. It in no way affects the vehicles operation. And in my area, it's not required to have the vehicles emissions checked in order to get tags.

So I either have to 1). Clear the code every 3 or 4 weeks with my reader. Or, 2). Live with the "Check Engine" light on all the time. Or, 3). Take it in and get it fixed. And in the process, end up spending money needlessly, and possibly have them screw something else up.... Or screw me. (The latter being the more likely).

I'm not risking anything doing 1). or 2). because if something major went wrong, that might result in damage if neglected, the "Check Engine" light, (that already would be illuminated because of the tripped emissions code), will blink when those more important codes are triggered.

One can only think "Check Engine" lights were designed to illuminate both the dashboard, as well as the dealers cash register in that regard.

 

[b_b]

Those things can be a 2 edged sword. I have one that keeps coming back after I clear it in my Jeep. The code is for, "A slight leak in the fuel evaporation system". Or some such. It in no way affects the vehicles operation. And in my area, it's not required to have the vehicles emissions checked in order to get tags.

So I either have to 1). Clear the code every 3 or 4 weeks with my reader. Or, 2). Live with the "Check Engine" light on all the time. Or, 3). Take it in and get it fixed. And in the process, end up spending money needlessly, and possibly have them screw something else up.... Or screw me. (The latter being the more likely).

I'm not risking anything doing 1). or 2). because if something major went wrong, that might result in damage if neglected, the "Check Engine" light, (that already would be illuminated because of the tripped emissions code), will blink when those more important codes are triggered.

One can only think "Check Engine" lights were designed to illuminate both the dashboard, as well as the dealers cash register in that regard.

probably your gas cap. only other thing is maybe charcoal canister. neither are that important.

 

[billt460]

probably your gas cap. only other thing is maybe charcoal canister. neither are that important.

It doesn't have a gas cap. Mine has another one of those wonderful, "engineering improvements"........ "A capless Fuel System".

 

[tmorris1]

It doesn't have a gas cap. Mine has another one of those wonderful, "engineering improvements"........ "A capless Fuel System".

I have seen people spray something like WD40 in and work the plunger back and forth to clean it and make it seal up. Worth a try.

 

[billt460]

I have seen people spray something like WD40 in and work the plunger back and forth to clean it and make it seal up. Worth a try.

Thanks. I'll give it a try the next time I fill up.

 

[Skippy722]

Those things can be a 2 edged sword. I have one that keeps coming back after I clear it in my Jeep. The code is for, "A slight leak in the fuel evaporation system". Or some such. It in no way affects the vehicles operation. And in my area, it's not required to have the vehicles emissions checked in order to get tags.

So I either have to 1). Clear the code every 3 or 4 weeks with my reader. Or, 2). Live with the "Check Engine" light on all the time. Or, 3). Take it in and get it fixed. And in the process, end up spending money needlessly, and possibly have them screw something else up.... Or screw me. (The latter being the more likely).

I'm not risking anything doing 1). or 2). because if something major went wrong, that might result in damage if neglected, the "Check Engine" light, (that already would be illuminated because of the tripped emissions code), will blink when those more important codes are triggered.

One can only think "Check Engine" lights were designed to illuminate both the dashboard, as well as the dealers cash register in that regard.

I’m in the same club. Tried a new gas cap, still on, replaced the purge valve on the charcoal canister, same thing. Last thing to try is the purge thingy under the hood ($40 from Mopar), if that doesn’t fix it it’s living the rest of its life like that.

 

[researcher]

I do have to agree, the 90's civic (my current project car) does require the fuel pump to prime before it will start quickly. It helped that the starter, and battery wiring was replaced, and the fuel pump! It starts better than it ever did before! Which is great, but letting the lights go out on the dash is when the PGM-FI system primes the fuel pump.

On the scion, priming only happens if the battery was disconnected, it keeps pressure much differently than the Honda PGM-FI system.. I find the Toyota system (returnless fuel system) is much quicker priming than the Civic ever was.