Should you wait until the bulb check is complete before starting?

[Strumpan_]

I have never waited in any gas car, I just plop in the key and start the engine, no car has ever not allowed that. My Audi has some check list it goes through and the dash says “OK” if everything is good.

I think it just checks coolant and oil level, the coolant I know because it leaks and sometimes it is low.

 

[repairman54]

There seem to be many people who have either the gas pedal, or the brake pedal, stomped down hard at all times.

I've got family members like that, I call them 2 stage drivers, they forget about the 3rd stage, coasting.

 

[Fordiesel69]

You bring up a very interesting point. The instrument cluster receives a "Keep Alive" voltage whenever the battery is connected. Typically there is a processor, rom with firmware, some kind of a bus controller IC, and tons of other surface mount components. During a CRANK-TO-START, the electronics are still up and running, processing code, and communicating to the bus, and then when you let off the key will then receive all of the data from the communication bus to be displayed.

The electronics are designed to fully operate on less than 12.6 vdc, usually as low as 8 or 9v. No need to wait for the bulb check or needle sweep.

Where this can be a problem however is with poor engineering. Take a 30ft RV for example with a rear pusher engine. Recently a friend had one of these with long bus data line, and a long power feed to the dash that also fed a bunch of other stuff. Not only were communications over the bus being degraded by the long runs of wire, but whenever a CRANK-TO-START was initiated, the voltage wpuld fall to below 6 vdc even with perfect batteries. This kept corrupting the firmware on the instrument cluster and sever warranty units were swapped in. After a year of messing with it, they finally fixed the wiring issues so that subsiqent failers stopped.

 

[The motor guy]

You bring up a very interesting point. The instrument cluster receives a "Keep Alive" voltage whenever the battery is connected. Typically there is a processor, rom with firmware, some kind of a bus controller IC, and tons of other surface mount components. During a CRANK-TO-START, the electronics are still up and running, processing code, and communicating to the bus, and then when you let off the key will then receive all of the data from the communication bus to be displayed.

The electronics are designed to fully operate on less than 12.6 vdc, usually as low as 8 or 9v. No need to wait for the bulb check or needle sweep.

Where this can be a problem however is with poor engineering. Take a 30ft RV for example with a rear pusher engine. Recently a friend had one of these with long bus data line, and a long power feed to the dash that also fed a bunch of other stuff. Not only were communications over the bus being degraded by the long runs of wire, but whenever a CRANK-TO-START was initiated, the voltage wpuld fall to below 6 vdc even with perfect batteries. This kept corrupting the firmware on the instrument cluster and sever warranty units were swapped in. After a year of messing with it, they finally fixed the wiring issues so that subsiqent failers stopped.

How did they fix it? Bigger wire?

 

[Ethan2]

I’m guessing you all have cars with traditional ignition cylinders? Or are you getting in the car, tapping the pushbutton, letting the instrument cluster light up, THEN putting your foot on the brake and starting the vehicle with another button press? (This would be particularly annoying on push-to-start GM vehicles, where you have to hold the button 10 seconds to get to KOEO )

Y’all are doing the automotive equivalent of a rain dance tbph

 

[clinebarger]

Is this a Chrysler 46RE/47RE by chance? The Detent Ball can get hung up in the valve body causing a difficult shift into park or out of park situation. There are kits to fix it, TransGo part# TF-Detent.
Fix it before it leaves you stranded!

 

[The motor guy]

Is this a Chrysler 46RE/47RE by chance? The Detent Ball can get hung up in the valve body causing a difficult shift into park or out of park situation. There are kits to fix it, TransGo part# TF-Detent.
Fix it before it leaves you stranded!

No, this is a 68rfe, but I've had issues with it not wanting to come out of park, but that's a random once every couple year type issue. I just pull the shift lever towards me several times and it eventually comes out of park. I've had this issue maybe 4 times in 17 years

 

[spackard]

A ‘17 Buick, and now a ‘10 Infiniti, I’m quick enough to start, shift to D, signal, and drive forward that I beat the turn signal clicker sound coming out the audio speakers. I didn’t care much one way or the other with the Buick. I find I like to hurry with the Infiniti because it idles low speed if I do that, and puts out much less rotten egg smell into whatever space I just left. No shift confusion with either, but the Buick was an Aisin tranny. Also I could tell lots of things powered up with the door unlock.

 

[dogememe]

It's probably pointless but I always wait a few moments. Even in the Bolt, I let the digital gauge cluster finish doing its thing then I shift into D. Once or twice I've been in a hurry but I just feel better about letting stuff initialize before trying to go anywhere. In ICE vehicles I tend to start the vehicle, put my seatbelt on, set up my music, get the climate control where I want it, and then start driving, unless I'm in a huge hurry. It just feels better for the vehicle. Who knows if it matters at all... it probably doesn't.

 

[2005jettatdi]

I've got family members like that, I call them 2 stage drivers, they forget about the 3rd stage, coasting.

I am always amazed at the drivers who have to hurry up to get to the red light.

Back in 2001, there was a huge southbound backup on !-5 from Federal Way to past Olympia. Go ahead a few feet, stop, go ahead a few feet, stop, for hours. There was a woman in a minivan behind us who kept flashing her brights and honking her horn like I was the whole problem.

 

[SHOZ]

My PB start doesn't give you a chance unless you deliberately interrupt the safety start system on the clutch. If the clutch is in it just starts cranking. I usually will push the button twice to get the engine control relay on, then push again with the clutch in to start. But this is just to connect Torque to the ECU first.

 

[Fordiesel69]

How did they fix it? Bigger wire?

Freightliner and the RV builder fought it out for way to long and eventually corrected the problem. Did not share the the final solution other than a new instrument cluster that actually works this time. The factory installed cluster and all subsequent warranty clusters never worked since the day it left the builder, however it is now rock solid ever since.

 

[frankbee3]

No one has mentioned black electrical tape over the warning lights. Now 100% no need to wait

That caused me to spill my coffee! Thanks for the laugh!

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Don't have a choice with push button start vehicles

 

[KrisZ]

There is no “bulb check” that will not complete once the vehicle is started, otherwise there would be a logic to prevent cranking before all checks are complete.

Here is a good visual of the process

 

[mikeduf]

So I got a hybrid Toyota RAV4. I get in the car, put my foot on the break and press the button! I hear nothing! How could this be it's a brand new car and I just pressed the start button! Not a sound, not a peep; nothing but this little green light saying ready. Then when I put it in reverse I get this alien Mothership sound! Why can't I have a V8 or a Ferrari V12 rumbling!

 

[javacontour]

I'd think if a wait was needed, pushbutton start cars would have a pronounced wait.

Instead, as long as your foot is on the clutch or brake, the car immediately attempts to start.

If there is any wait, it's a fraction of a second.