Opinions Please

[RamAir5]

I sincerely appreciate the input. Hyundai recommends the usual vague 7500 oci for "normal" conditions and 3000 oci for "severe". The problem is that they appear to overlap. It seems to me it may be a ploy to get you if something happens during the warranty period. I just want the best for my new ride. I may just stick with YB every 3000 miles. I really don't want to dump $25 worth of synthetic oil every 3000 miles. The warranty recommendations for OCIs is scaring me a little. I am relieved to see a lot of positive comments on Pennzoil YB. Seems like a great dino oil to use. The Veracruz does not have an oil monitoring system either. Its up to the owner to keep track of it. Interestingly though, in the Hyundai manual, it recommends Quaker State oil.. There is even a "Q" logo in the print.

 

[demarpaint]

If you fall under the severe category and plan on changing oil very 3000 miles YB will serve you well. You could probably extend that OCI, but if you want to maintain the warranty follow the book. Not sure what grade oil Hyundai spec's, but if its 5W20, you get the added benefit of YB being a synthetic blend in that grade.

 

[oilchangeguy]

YB 5W20 is really a synthetic blend?

 

[wannafbody]

YB is a group 2 oil but may contain some group 3 base stock as well depending on where it was formulated.

 

[RamAir5]

 Originally Posted By: demarpaint

If you fall under the severe category and plan on changing oil very 3000 miles YB will serve you well.

I don't think I fall into the severe category. Its just Hyundai's "severe" criteria seems vague. For example "driving short distances of less than 5 miles in normal temperatures"... who doesn't do that? "driving in stop an go traffic".. again, who doesn't? They are prefaced with "frequently" but what is Hyundai's definition of "frequent". It's not defined, anywhere. Maybe I'm being too critical about the 10/100k warranty.

 

[demarpaint]

In order to make a 5W20 grade oil it is a synthetic blend. You'll notice in some stores they charge a little more for a 5W20 than a 5W30 or a 10W30. I just read an article about MC 5W20, it is a hydrocracked, synthetic blend. I'm sure the process for all 5W20's is very similar. I also spoke to a tech at Pennzoil and was told the same thing about their 5W20 being a synthetic blend. HTH

 

[demarpaint]

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

 Originally Posted By: demarpaint

If you fall under the severe category and plan on changing oil very 3000 miles YB will serve you well.

I don't think I fall into the severe category. Its just Hyundai's "severe" criteria seems vague. For example "driving short distances of less than 5 miles in normal temperatures"... who doesn't do that? "driving in stop an go traffic".. again, who doesn't? They are prefaced with "frequently" but what is Hyundai's definition of "frequent". It's not defined, anywhere. Maybe I'm being too critical about the 10/100k warranty.

Technically speaking I would say the vast majority of people fall under "the severe category". I know I do. You could probably stretch the OCI's a bit, but a lot of people tend to stick to what is stated in the OM to cover their arse in the event of a problem. Shame they don't have a Semi Severe Category, that would make life easier for a lot of us!

 

[tig1]

 Originally Posted By: demarpaint

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

 Originally Posted By: demarpaint

If you fall under the severe category and plan on changing oil very 3000 miles YB will serve you well.

I don't think I fall into the severe category. Its just Hyundai's "severe" criteria seems vague. For example "driving short distances of less than 5 miles in normal temperatures"... who doesn't do that? "driving in stop an go traffic".. again, who doesn't? They are prefaced with "frequently" but what is Hyundai's definition of "frequent". It's not defined, anywhere. Maybe I'm being too critical about the 10/100k warranty.

Technically speaking I would say the vast majority of people fall under "the severe category". I know I do. You could probably stretch the OCI's a bit, but a lot of people tend to stick to what is stated in the OM to cover their arse in the event of a problem. Shame they don't have a Semi Severe Category, that would make life easier for a lot of us!

I would say you are wrong about that . I can't think of any one I know that falls into the severe catagory. High dust conditions. extended idle times through an OCI are extended trailer towing. Most fall into the normal catagory , like me. Some highway, some town, just normal driving.

 

[RamAir5]

Whats the odds of an oil related failure? I read somewhere that the OEM would have to be able to prove it was oil related.

 

[demarpaint]

 Originally Posted By: tig1

 Originally Posted By: demarpaint

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

 Originally Posted By: demarpaint

If you fall under the severe category and plan on changing oil very 3000 miles YB will serve you well.

I don't think I fall into the severe category. Its just Hyundai's "severe" criteria seems vague. For example "driving short distances of less than 5 miles in normal temperatures"... who doesn't do that? "driving in stop an go traffic".. again, who doesn't? They are prefaced with "frequently" but what is Hyundai's definition of "frequent". It's not defined, anywhere. Maybe I'm being too critical about the 10/100k warranty.

Technically speaking I would say the vast majority of people fall under "the severe category". I know I do. You could probably stretch the OCI's a bit, but a lot of people tend to stick to what is stated in the OM to cover their arse in the event of a problem. Shame they don't have a Semi Severe Category, that would make life easier for a lot of us!

I would say you are wrong about that . I can't think of any one I know that falls into the severe catagory. High dust conditions. extended idle times through an OCI are extended trailer towing. Most fall into the normal catagory , like me. Some highway, some town, just normal driving.

There is an area of gray that leaves us with different opinions. This is from the OM for my 93 Aerostar: Unique driving conditions: If your driving habits FREQUENTLY include 1 or more of the following conditions every 3 months or 3000 miles. Regular maintenance is 6 months or 7500 miles in this OM. Short trips less than 10 miles when temps are below freezing Towing a trailer, using a camper, roof top carrier, or carrying maximum loads Operating in severe dust conditions Operating during hot weather in stop and go traffic or rush hour traffic Extensive idling, such as police, taxi, or door to door service High speed operation with a fully loaded vehicle It says 1 or more conditions. I meet 2 of them. Frequent short trips and moving the car around I would call another severe situation because of fuel dilution. I don't think the criteria has changed over the years, only the intervals are a little longer now. A common sense approach is best.

 

[PT1]

My opinion: YB @ 3000 miles= 100k = 33 oil changes 5x33= 165 qts/33filters PP @ 5000 miles= 100k = 20 oil changes 5x20= 100 qts/20 filters PP @ 7500 miles= 100k = 14 oil changes 5x14= 70 qts/14 filters Think about it. Want to save money and the environment?

 

[Mark888]

I take the words FREQUENTLY used by all auto manufacturers to mean at least 75% of the miles driven on the car. Everyone drives short distances some of the time (and by the way, if your engine is still warmed up from you last trip, that doesn't count). They are trying to isolate the little old lady who only drives a few miles at a time, virtually all the time. I don't worry about the severe service recommendations, but I use a full synthetic. If I were using a conventional oil, then that would be whole nother ball game (especially for stop and go, rush hour traffic, etc where an engine might run a little hotter).

 

[demarpaint]

My thought is someone who knows about cars, engines etc, can custom tailor a plan and have it work. Once out of warranty a middle of the road approch might be prudent for some. Perhaps a 4,000 mile dino OCI vs the 3000 mile severe service (assuming that is what the OM states), or something along those lines. People here are doing it everyday with great success. We all know synthetics can be extended longer.

 

[RamAir5]

I think I'm gonna go with PP and a 5000 mile OCI. After reading everyone's responses, it seems like the thing to do. Thanks to all for your advice.

 

[ADFD1]

Sounds like a plan. Somewhere between normal and severe service, with the added benefits of a synthetic oil. AD

 

[Bill in Utah]

In your rig you can do 5k OCI with Pennzoil conventional unless you spend a lot of time in stop and go. Also, how long with those 5k miles take? The reason why Q is in your manual is the same reason why Mobil 1 is on oil caps, they pay $$ for it. Take care, bill

 

[tuckman]

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

I think I'm gonna go with PP and a 5000 mile OCI. After reading everyone's responses, it seems like the thing to do. Thanks to all for your advice.

Very good plan. May I suggest going with that for a few OCI's and then doing a UOA. That will tell you for sure if you can go the 7500 or not. I read that a UOA without TBN from Blackstone was $22. That is a pretty good price and if you are stretching your OCI's from 5k to 7.5k you will make that money back pretty fast, buying less oil. but Bill is right, you can easily use YB for 5k

 

[Bill in Utah]

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

Whats the odds of an oil related failure? I read somewhere that the OEM would have to be able to prove it was oil related.

You and your Lawyer would have to get them to honer the warranty. Then depending on your state, maybe or not you can get them to pay for your Lawyer. Also some states have you go directly to arbitration (which you pay for).

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

Maybe I'm being too critical about the 10/100k warranty.

Hyundai is picky about their warranty (as they should since it is one of the best out there) Just do the 5k OCIs with any SM rated oil (what weight are they asking for?) Keep the lids to the filters (write the mileage and date on the flap) and receipts for everything and you'll be fine. I've had to go through an audit for a warranty issue and they liked the flaps of the filters showing what I used and when. Take care, Bill

 

[PT1]

 Originally Posted By: RamAir5

I think I'm gonna go with PP and a 5000 mile OCI. After reading everyone's responses, it seems like the thing to do. Thanks to all for your advice.

Your engine will thank you.

 

[PT1]

 Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah

I've had to go through an audit for a warranty issue and they liked the flaps of the filters showing what I used and when.

Me too. I save the bar code off the oil containers & filter and receipts and staple them in my log book. The GM guy looked at it for about a minute and said "that is fine".