IDK that you can find a true "conventional oil" anymore, not one that has the latest certs.
To answer your question, any oil that meets the spec listed in your owners manual, changed at 5K miles with the filter, will be fine.
Question about OCIs and conventional/synthetic oil
- Thread starter CZ75
- Start date
To answer your question, any oil that meets the spec listed in your owners manual, changed at 5K miles with the filter, will be fine.
If I could absolutely not change my own oil I’d honestly go to a Walmart service center and pick my favorite oil and filter off the shelf. 5k no problem, possibly longer depending on your driving conditions.
It's possible for a pure group 2 conventional which meets the SP and gf-6a requirements to exist. Chevron havoline comes to mind. Their 10w-30 doesn't say syn blend and the website also categories it as a conventional yet it meets the latest SP gf-6a requirements. Their 5w-30 does meet the SP gf-6a too but it states it's a synthetic blend and both cost the same.
What mix of city and highway? How many miles racked up in 4 months? How is it driven?
For a short or moderate OCI these is no need for "synthetic" unless it is a GM vehicle requiring DEXOS lic.
They will both meet/exceed ILSAC GF6A/ API SP.
Now what is this mystery Vehicle? I can't really make any recommendations without knowing specific use pattern and marque/model and powertrain
- Arco
The word "synthetic" oil means zero these days. As long as you see API SP or ILSAC GF-6A you are good to go.
Rog...but I doubt his vehicle calls for 10w/30
Whether the owners manual recommends a specific winter rating is irrelevant, that’s dictated by his expected starting temperature. Above 0F any oil with a 10W rating is acceptable.
Just about nothing made after the 90's has 10w-30 on the oil cap so it's a low chance but what grade his vehicle uses wasn't in the topic. But like I said it's possible to make a "true conventional" (no group 3/4/5) meet the latest gf 6a and SP rating but it's difficult. It can't be done with 5w-20 or 5w-30 from what I've seen and must be synthetic blend at minimum for those grades. Also what does rog mean.
Roger That.
Valvoline white bottle 10w30 has SP rating and is conventional per product description. There is a couple but not many.
Maybe 50/50 city and highway. Maybe 2000 miles driven within 4 months.
2019 Kia Rio with 1.6L direct injection.
A gentleman above was doing 6K OCI on his Kia. He said the oil was in bad shape so he switched to 3K OCI.
@ARCOgraphite
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
3k OCIs is smart business with Kia and Hyundai TGDI / GDIs
Next two smarts are keeping the dipstick oil level at the Full Mark and use SP 10w30 or 0w40 oils, Euro or EP, doesn't matter..
Next two smarts are keeping the dipstick oil level at the Full Mark and use SP 10w30 or 0w40 oils, Euro or EP, doesn't matter..
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
The 1.6 is a good engine. 5k is a good interval. Boils down to your preference. 5k will do just fine, but if you can’t sleep over that then just do the 3k and be done with it.
It is under warranty so I don't think I can use anything heavier than 5w30.
If I maintain it well, any opinions on how many miles I can get out of the engine before it goes kaputz?
Sorry, current tools are not working for that.
Most on here say good earlier changes "should" help prolong the life, no clue until when, probably until just after warranty expires.
I'm helping maintain the 2.0L Hyundai Tucson with same dilema except for the added UOA information.
Is that what your owner’s manual says that the warranty is predicated on grade? Something to the effect of “the new car warranty will be voided if any grade other than… is used”? My manual says that using an oil that causes damage may void the warranty. Is yours different?
Using a somewhat heavier grade will not cause damage. In fact, quite the opposite. It will help to prevent damage - as long as the winter rating is appropriate for the starting temperatures.
