So I have a 2006 Toyota 4Runner V6 1GR-FE. I recently purchased it at 164K miles. So about two days after purchasing CEL P0016. So I took it to Toyota who said it needed a new chain tensioner but they had to replace everything chain wise to fix the problem because it was probably all worn out. So instead I took it back to the dealer I purchased it from, they took it apart and determined it did need a new timing chain kit and water pump. After the replacement no more CEL. I reset it a couple of times before heading to Toyota but it kept coming back on cold start. So the next step I check the oil and the dip stick is stained. Well I say stained more like oil that had gotten cooked on. It took a bit of scraping but I got that off. Next I looked into the oil cap, I mean there is minor sludge on the cap. I ended up changing the oil with pennzoil platinum 5w-30 hoping that will help. I just wanted opinions on what I'm in for. I had a mechanic check it out before purchase and the dealer fixed the problems he found. The timing chain was unexpected. I made sure they changed it because the old one I could see before the change through the oil filler area. The new one has a continuous blue line throughout the chain while it spins. But I can only see a small part of it. Could all this because of very poor maintenance? I've had it for over a month with no new problems.
Opinions Please, Poor Maintenance
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Is that the sludger Toyota is infamous for?
If so you have a few options. You can buy some kreen and do a rinse out,you can use mmo or seafoam although they are weaker than kreen or you can just stay the course using an oil known for cleaning such as the pennzoil line or M1.
It all depends on your comfort level using additives however today's oils are good enough to clean up junk on their own,albeit it won't be fast.
If so you have a few options. You can buy some kreen and do a rinse out,you can use mmo or seafoam although they are weaker than kreen or you can just stay the course using an oil known for cleaning such as the pennzoil line or M1.
It all depends on your comfort level using additives however today's oils are good enough to clean up junk on their own,albeit it won't be fast.
Its an extremely rare occurrence for Toyota engine to lose a chain. Read about a few online, the chain failures were due to a lack of maintenance and sludge. That being said I would drain and fill all the fluids. Easy to do. Stick with Toyota coolant and transmission fluid. Your oil selection is ok, if you pick up any leaks switchover to M1 HM, works well on these engines.
No that was late 90's. His problem was/is poor maintenance by PO
Yeah I read about them rarely losing chains that's why I thought very poor maintenance. I figured PP would be the best bet. Supposedly it's supposed to run 5000 mi on Conventional. I'm gonna run PP for at least two OCI's before looking into any others. I didn't want to try any solvents. I've already had the W/S fluid and SLLC changed within a week of having it. I'm waiting to do the brake and power for a bit. Just a lot of upfront maintenance. Basically the PO ran way too long between oil changes but hopefully this will help clean it up. Is the Mobil 1 HM a synthetic or dino?
M1 HM is Synthetic. I bought the Camry in my signature with 150k on it for $2500. Would not start. Supposedly needed an engine, sludge so bad it had to be towed at sale. Got it going, tried a few oils. Was about to give up and replace the engine when somebody here recommended M1 HM. Within a month it was reliable enough for use as a daily driver. The Camry is still going, still using M1 HM today. Nothings been replaced, not even the valve cover gasket. Remarkable.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
I had that motor in a 2008 Tacoma. It's not a known sludger. There was only shiny metal visible in the filler at 82k. I did 5,000 mile changes with mostly PYB 5w-30. I also used Rotella T5, T6, and M1 in 0w-30 and 5w-30.
I thought it ran best on Rotella T6 5w-40, but that was the butt dyno and maybe my imagination. The good thing is Rotella will do nicely to clean it up. If its burning or leaking, a high mileage oil would help. Maxlife or Mobil 1 HM.
Maxlife ATF is a good choice when you get to the transmission.
I thought it ran best on Rotella T6 5w-40, but that was the butt dyno and maybe my imagination. The good thing is Rotella will do nicely to clean it up. If its burning or leaking, a high mileage oil would help. Maxlife or Mobil 1 HM.
Maxlife ATF is a good choice when you get to the transmission.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
M1 HM is Synthetic. I bought the Camry in my signature with 150k on it for $2500. Would not start. Supposedly needed an engine, sludge so bad it had to be towed at sale. Got it going, tried a few oils. Was about to give up and replace the engine when somebody here recommended M1 HM. Within a month it was reliable enough for use as a daily driver. The Camry is still going, still using M1 HM today. Nothings been replaced, not even the valve cover gasket. Remarkable.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
That's impressive. We can't get M1 hm here but your experience makes me want to try it out.
Oil choice resurrecting an engine is awesome. Sad that some people neglect their vehicles like that. I'm so OCD now when it comes to oil if I even get a strange tap or tick I drain it and try out something else.
I've always been a thicker is better guy however lately I've been going a grade thinner in my dd. I gotta admit there is a definite difference in rev-ability and no obvious defects so I'm slowly getting over my thin oil phobia.
M1 HM is Synthetic. I bought the Camry in my signature with 150k on it for $2500. Would not start. Supposedly needed an engine, sludge so bad it had to be towed at sale. Got it going, tried a few oils. Was about to give up and replace the engine when somebody here recommended M1 HM. Within a month it was reliable enough for use as a daily driver. The Camry is still going, still using M1 HM today. Nothings been replaced, not even the valve cover gasket. Remarkable.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
That's impressive. We can't get M1 hm here but your experience makes me want to try it out.
Oil choice resurrecting an engine is awesome. Sad that some people neglect their vehicles like that. I'm so OCD now when it comes to oil if I even get a strange tap or tick I drain it and try out something else.
I've always been a thicker is better guy however lately I've been going a grade thinner in my dd. I gotta admit there is a definite difference in rev-ability and no obvious defects so I'm slowly getting over my thin oil phobia.
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I inherited a 1995 Camry at 68k miles that had a lot of varnish. I went with the slow process. MMO and PYB and a few short OCI. I'm now at 94k and running synthetic at 7k and all is good.
If I had to do it again I'd probably go the route of PU or PP for 3k and add Seafoam last 500 miles then 4-5k and Seafoam again last 500 miles and then start working out to 5k and 6k and then do an UOA to see what I'm looking at.
If I had to do it again I'd probably go the route of PU or PP for 3k and add Seafoam last 500 miles then 4-5k and Seafoam again last 500 miles and then start working out to 5k and 6k and then do an UOA to see what I'm looking at.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
M1 HM is Synthetic. I bought the Camry in my signature with 150k on it for $2500. Would not start. Supposedly needed an engine, sludge so bad it had to be towed at sale. Got it going, tried a few oils. Was about to give up and replace the engine when somebody here recommended M1 HM. Within a month it was reliable enough for use as a daily driver. The Camry is still going, still using M1 HM today. Nothings been replaced, not even the valve cover gasket. Remarkable.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
Did you have a thread on that with pictures.
M1 HM is Synthetic. I bought the Camry in my signature with 150k on it for $2500. Would not start. Supposedly needed an engine, sludge so bad it had to be towed at sale. Got it going, tried a few oils. Was about to give up and replace the engine when somebody here recommended M1 HM. Within a month it was reliable enough for use as a daily driver. The Camry is still going, still using M1 HM today. Nothings been replaced, not even the valve cover gasket. Remarkable.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx
Did you have a thread on that with pictures.
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
I inherited a 1995 Camry at 68k miles that had a lot of varnish. I went with the slow process. MMO and PYB and a few short OCI. I'm now at 94k and running synthetic at 7k and all is good.
If I had to do it again I'd probably go the route of PU or PP for 3k and add Seafoam last 500 miles then 4-5k and Seafoam again last 500 miles and then start working out to 5k and 6k and then do an UOA to see what I'm looking at.
When working with seafoam I found that using it at the beginning of the interval and changing at 2000 miles with conventional worked really quick.
I had a dodge minivan with a 3.0 that was super sludged then we acquired a Plymouth with a 3.3 that was sludged really bad too.
I don't know why but the intakes really cleaned up too. I'm assuming it was the evaporation of the seafoam being drawn in by the pcv valve but I can't say for sure.
I inherited a 1995 Camry at 68k miles that had a lot of varnish. I went with the slow process. MMO and PYB and a few short OCI. I'm now at 94k and running synthetic at 7k and all is good.
If I had to do it again I'd probably go the route of PU or PP for 3k and add Seafoam last 500 miles then 4-5k and Seafoam again last 500 miles and then start working out to 5k and 6k and then do an UOA to see what I'm looking at.
When working with seafoam I found that using it at the beginning of the interval and changing at 2000 miles with conventional worked really quick.
I had a dodge minivan with a 3.0 that was super sludged then we acquired a Plymouth with a 3.3 that was sludged really bad too.
I don't know why but the intakes really cleaned up too. I'm assuming it was the evaporation of the seafoam being drawn in by the pcv valve but I can't say for sure.
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