Opinions for switch from 20/50wt to 10/30 for aircool engine

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What will happen if I make a switch from 20/50wt engine oil to 10/30wt for my 40 year oil street drive 1500 air cool bug?

Currently I am using Castro dino 20/50 wt daily drive to work 25 KM (one way, 50% highway) with 180 F oil temperature (when outside air 80 F) and 195 F (outside air 92 F) and I change the oil every 3 months irregardless of mileage, thanks for any suggestions
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Why not do a change to a plain jane 30WT. I think even a 10W-30 will shear down to a least a 20WT in a air cooled engine. You need all the protection that you can get.
 
NO! Past VW's in the family pre-25 years ago, 30wt or higher were the preffered oils. It would go through 10w30's.

How would a HDEO or motorcycle oil work in today's terms? 0w40 Mobil 1, it's spec'd for Porsches, though they are water cooled in modern times?
 
Why the change to begin with...looking to increase fuel economy or bulk oil deal?

Perhaps like Jimbo said, give a 15w-40 weight a try. A UOA could then give you something to go by, but before the change take a UOA of the 20w-50 to compare with.
 
Yes, looking to increase fuel economy plus a couple more HP bonus
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UOA over here? Man-O-man, don't forget I am still in the second world but definitely not third...LOL

"Currently I am using Castro dino 20/50..."

Isn't he dead yet
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Sorry, I am having a real problem getting that oil brand correct maybe they should re-brand it... LOL

50wt engine oil to 10/30wt>
Why bother with 15/40w would it make any significant difference compared to 20/50w otherwise might as well stick with it "Apa Kabar".
 
I have a 60's aircooled Porsche in the 4 cyl flavor. I've used 20w50, since the rebuild have stepped down to a 15w40 and then down to a 30 wt. I wouldn't use a 10w30. It liked the 15w40 fine, and does fine on the straight 30 wt. I've even used High-mileage Valvoline in 10w40 prior to the rebuild to see if it would help the oil leaks, which it did. The point to stepping down in grade gradually would be to determine how the engine likes the lower viscosity, more consumption, more noise, more leaks, more power, more smoke, whatever. If it doesn't like 15w40, there would be no point to going to anything in a 30 wt.
 
I think the conventional 10w-30 will foul the plugs faster too. And you're right about 15w-40. You won't notice any difference in fuel mileage or power.

Try experimenting with HD30 or Syntec 10w-30 or Mobil 1 10w-40.
 
From the experiences I've had owning various '60s & '70s Bugs (in Southern California & Northern Colorado), I'd also recommend going to a 15W-40. The Delvac 1300 has the same CCV (I think that's the right measurement) as their 10W-30 HDEO, so you'd see the same cold engine fuel savings with their more protective 15W-40.
 
A straight 40 was a good alternative to 20W50 in the air cooled I used to own. I "thought" it ran smoother, too. Not scientific data, you see. I know people who seem to be OK with a straight 30 in their air cooled VW's, but in our heat a 20w50 or 40 would be my choice.
 
Air-cooled engines are designed with larger clearances than liquid cooled engines. Because air cooled engines run much hotter.I would not recommend using a multi-viscosity oil in any air cooled engine except in wintertime. Multi-weights are too thin when an air-cooled engine is cold in my opinion. I wish the oil companies would come out with straight "weight" synthetic oils, but seeing how air-cooled cars are kinda rare. They probably won't. Stick with SAE30 or SAE40.
 
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