One oil...two cars?

[raytseng]

in your conditions do you get to 10k over a year?
Don't both of your new cars have maintenance minders?

If you're in low mileage conditions, I'd switch to the change yearly (or maintenance minder light) and call it a day.

Get the best synthethic that's on sale. As long as you're not buying at full MSRP price, but when it's on sale, or at walmart prices; the difference is maybe $10 over conventional. In your conditions, this is an amount amortized over a YEAR.

I'd also second the "just get 2 types of oil". don't really see what is the big hassle you're trying to avoid.

 

[Kuato]

I'd use 0w30 in both.

As far as everyone telling you when to change, it's not their vehicle is it. Severe service you won't ever have to wory at 3k. But with a used oil analysis or two you might be able to run it further if you were so inclined.

 

[raytseng]

i think it's the irony of asking for advice about oil; but that's built onto a faulty knowledge to use 3k oil changes. (the opinion of the car maker, the oil maker, and the community).

If the OP doesn't accept that 3k is too soon; then any further advice on oil-related recs are a bit of a moot point. Like discussing what to do to get into heaven if you don't believe in heaven in the first place.

 

[KitaCam]

I agree with Ray...if OP's going to change oil @ 3k miles then any of the SN rated oils meeting the car's specs will be perfect...
...giving OP time to spend on life's other mysteries...like how can I find a scenic route between work and home to warm the engine to normal operating temperature...

One hint...on 1 mile runs don't turn the cabin air temp to heat...that draws heat from the engine IT desperately needs...unless you need the heat more.

 

[Cooper]

Check with Toyota on the back spec and run 0w20 in both. Stop doing 3K OCI, that is a HUGE waste! Don't use Purolater filters. That is all, IMHO.

 

[UNC151]

Originally Posted By: Cadenza
Can I expect modern synthetics yo go a full 10k? Am I doing damage by not changing earlier?

If your driving habits are fairly consistent, do yourself and your bank account a favor and used oil analysis the oil a few times to find out what the actual OCI should be (but I would not exceed the upper limit in the OM while under warranty). Extended OCIs are not for everyone, but it would be hard to imagine that you need to change it at 3K. Without the used oil analysis, it is all guesswork because you have no solid basis to make a decision.

I have ran Mobil 1 0W-20 (Non-EP) for 15K miles and it still had life in it, BUT the oil is heated enough each day because I have a longer commute. Sitting and idling in Seattle traffic is hardly taxing the engine or the oil--there are much hotter places in the US where people do the same everyday and have a longer OCI. Since you have to buy the oil anyway, I would use Mobil 1 0W-20 and 0w30 in the respective vehicle and call it a day--and not have to worry about a warranty issue. Unless you stumble on a sale of one viscosity or the other, not much would be saved anyway by stocking up on just one. But do the used oil analysis and save yourself some money in the long run.

 

[andyd]

A 1.5 mile, commute. Thats a waste of a vehicle. Either walk or ride a bike. Heck I'm all banged up, but I would ride a bike. Just to see if I could. At least swap off with the spousal unit so the Taco gets some use. Still, if you gave the cars a 1/2 hr highway run every so often, the whole car would like it, not just the oil.

 

[Oregoonian]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I don't see how you could possibly be trashing Mobil 1 in 3k.

AGREE....with severe driving, M-1 should be good for at least 6000 to 7000 OCI. If your going to insist on 3000 OCI's, use a good dino such Mobil Super 5000 or Pennzoil conventional.

Using a synthetic for short OCI's is a waste of money and resources

Also agree with others that an 0w20 OR 5w20 will be good for both vehicles.

 

[Cadenza]

Thanks to all for some very useful and thoughtful suggestions. I will wait until after the warranties are expired if I decide to change anything and think about OCI's at 7500k miles.
Trading vehicles with my wife is a good idea, as is walking, just not practical currently. Lots of good advice.
Thanks again.

 

[fdcg27]

You could just use the recommended grade in each.
Not that musch of a hassle.
I have seven different SAE grades in stock for six cars plus a few OPEs and it isn't that hard to select the right oil for each engine and ambient temperature range.
For the Honda, use Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20 and change it according to the MM, which is an IOLM.
For the Toy, just follow the instructions in the OM and if it really does call for a thirty, you could use Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30.
Easy!

 

[crazyoildude]

we call that loving your engine to death in the engine business changing your oil that soon does not extend engine life and actually can shorten it according to a number of engine makers.. It has to do with the second or two when you first start your engine after an oil change (dry start) Both Honda and chrysler has mentioned this at one time or another during their engine seminars i attend.

 

[Shannow]

Mate, you've hit a tough crowd in this thread.

You wife's Honda, use the specced grade, Mobil 1 Extended Performance, and go through to the normal OCI, or a year.

Your Toyota would probably survive quite well on same provided you keep to your mile or so trips, but if it were mine, I'd pick a 5w30 conventional, change it quarterly/3,000 miles, whtever suits you

 

[kschachn]

Ok, but at the same time you are complaining about having to buy two different kinds of oil. It's only two, it's not like the incremental burden is great compared to all those changes you are doing.

Originally Posted By: Cadenza
Save your tears for all the oil I've bought and paid for. It doesn't seem a waste at all when leveraged
against even small maintenance and repair bills I can avoid long term.

 

[kschachn]

That's a great point.

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Ok well if you're gonna buy 2 jugs, one for each car, why do they need to be the same weight?

Why not just buy one 0w20 and one 5w30? What's the big deal?

 

[justinh384]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Was the 4.0 in the Tacoma ever spec'd for 5w30?

Anything less than 10K on either of those engines is going to be a waste - especially with a good synthetic.

I'm pretty sure the 4.0 in the tacoma has almost always been 5w30. Now the 2.7 L I4 engines in the same truck have been specced for 0w20 at 5000 mile intervals exclusively since 2011. My 2009 2.7 L is recommended for either 5w20 or 0w20. I think the 4.0 may still be specced for 5w30.

 

[berniedd]

Originally Posted By: shDK
Here Honda dealers use 5w30 even though the manual specs 0w-20. Apparently it is the Danish Honda importer that require 5w30. I don,t know why they do it. But they have no problems doing it.


Ha! The Honda dealer here uses 5W-40 weight oil in my newish 1.5 year old CRV (still under warranty). I guess it doesn't matter much to Honda if you go up 2 grades of oil viscosity. (I live in the tropics, BTW.)

 

[zuluplus30]

For the CRV run any off the shelf 0W-20 (or 0w30 if your trying to pair an oil with your Tacoma). The K24 will run for 200k on anything short of vegetable oil. Don't worry about how your wife drives it. Just follow the maintenance minder. It will account for her driving conditions. For your truck, seeing as how your oil will almost never get your oil to temp, I think every 3 months using conventional is a great idea.