One more bite at the 5w20 v. 5w30 debate:
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wemay
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Like i said, ran one (magnetic plug) in my 2011 2.4L Sonata and didn't notice a difference between 20 and 30. I wonder if the poster on that forum had a severe issue with that car. A difference that great isnt normal.
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
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Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
That was my thought too.
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
That was my thought too.
Originally Posted by buster
It really depends. We're seeing more GDI engines that are prone to fuel dilution. Unless you're using a 5w30 that has little to no VII's, you're likely better off with a good 5w20. Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w20 is a nice choice as the Noack is around 7.5% and the sulfated ash is also low. I'd recommend that or if you have expensive taste for high end, try the new Valvoline Modern Engine 5w20 oil.
I have a GDI engine in a Hyundai Santa Fe, but I guess I really don't know what fuel dilution is and the issue. Can you help me out, thanks in advance.
It really depends. We're seeing more GDI engines that are prone to fuel dilution. Unless you're using a 5w30 that has little to no VII's, you're likely better off with a good 5w20. Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w20 is a nice choice as the Noack is around 7.5% and the sulfated ash is also low. I'd recommend that or if you have expensive taste for high end, try the new Valvoline Modern Engine 5w20 oil.
I have a GDI engine in a Hyundai Santa Fe, but I guess I really don't know what fuel dilution is and the issue. Can you help me out, thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by pokey
I have a GDI engine in a Hyundai Santa Fe, but I guess I really don't know what fuel dilution is and the issue. Can you help me out, thanks in advance.
Fuel dilution is raw fuel getting past the piston rings during the compression stroke and it gets picked up by the oil. The raw fuel thins down the oil viscosity and makes it smell like raw gas if there's a lot of dilution going on. Some cases of dilution are so bad that the oil level will actually go up on the dipstick.
I have a GDI engine in a Hyundai Santa Fe, but I guess I really don't know what fuel dilution is and the issue. Can you help me out, thanks in advance.
Fuel dilution is raw fuel getting past the piston rings during the compression stroke and it gets picked up by the oil. The raw fuel thins down the oil viscosity and makes it smell like raw gas if there's a lot of dilution going on. Some cases of dilution are so bad that the oil level will actually go up on the dipstick.
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
But ..... I read it on the Internet! It must be true.
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
But ..... I read it on the Internet! It must be true.
In my Kia I'm running 5W30 Mobil 1 in the manual they state that using 5W20 is better for fuel economy but I don't think I'm allowed to use it here in the Middle East because of the hot weather. Also, the Mobil 1 is one of the thickest 5W30 oils, this is why I feel comfortable using it. I would only run 5W20 if the manufacturer specifies only 5W20 with no other option like most of the American cars.
Originally Posted by csandste
I know we've been down this road before. Not allowed to change my own oil cause I'm a condo dwelling geezer. I have a two liter, direct injection HyunKia engine. No real indication of fuel dilution and I'm not planning on getting a lab report. I'm using SuperTech syn on a 6K oci in order to get the odometer to a number divisible by 5K. I have a nearby tire store and a fistful of $10 coupons (really slightly more than $15 when they get all the fees and taxes tacked on).
Currently running 5w30 on the ST syn, and have run 5w20 Maxlife and VWB all without incident.
For 5w30-- it's hot in Missouri, notice no mileage change, it's a d.i. engine, it's probably sheared down to 5w20 anyway.
For 5w20-- that's what it says on the oil cap, less viscosity improvers means more oily goodness, .001% more gas mileage will buy me a c-store hotdog annually and I should take it.
I'm going in next week, using my Valvoline Conventional for $10 coupon (hopefully they won't reject me since VWB is shifting over to semi-syn marketing), and realize this debate has gone on before (and checked out those threads). Wide vs. narrow, thick vs. thin are ongoing debates on here. One more time-- just like a set list for a classic rock band full of 70 year olds.
What I like about 5W-20 is that it uses a thicker base oil than 5W-30 does. So, while the HTHS viscosity, which is relevant to the wear protection of the bearings, is a little less, the valvetrain, timing chain, and rings and liners will have less wear with 5W-20 than with 5w-30 because the base oil is thicker. Unless your engine specifies 5W-30 or you plan to drive at very high speeds (very high RPMs), stick with 5W-20 -- it will result in less engine wear because of its thicker base oil. Also, you will have less engine and turbocharger deposits with 5W-20 because it has less VII than 5W-30 has.
In fact you can probably make a monograde 5w-20 that uses no VII -- a 5W-20 that is also a SAE 20.
This old Mobil oil can claims 5w-20 protects better than 10W-40 does.
![[Linked Image]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OjIThPB_oy4gDr7G3PSB5IaoW3K_YACktPRA3lJjCYLb2L5LQHdq-pVXM35kBckF61VN56IqXtO45mSDeoBNsHBbnIDH5jKWPYMzPR2esw-2_fsLvr24fkvZYSpDlNxO-DsxCGt7gkomAR4QF0Cy4QCOQhWLOL2gpZtlSKZq49VDRlU-ebRzrIQCN8gizH2BhLZBIacINl0ErugWxLzGcwXkTPzeZe0ml9WNaGOlp4iCrr9e81nBPyq3kw3tQIZOdCpe7KgQe7lechlul5u1LAczRUyH4xxGcEhjtHq2mCBpyomr17FKD2TtIhUrHifEFLq-J_aG34cyjN4AhZTErW2eZpVdyAb3L0se07ASqoOs7M_CW16Y9yyAT6_Yfjp1aKANIYt8nTB4dbpTIv1QBiABMVND14ERhaceAzjHgakMhTuR0-0nUqKBFYR5bmIetzRqDS_ALPKU0U3EpPcqH0Ye1TOwb0xuOR1Zt8sHWsPFFeiQu4Zx3g_OOECX3q71dgyUjpszZaxeiSPSWRs1Nx_-lhMLSgJ0QcTkBfchJfOgjwVz2QhJMwxRBOs-TBYXKE4S2oCcyPJw8ZSSNZeZW8UUbYwR9u-zGquh5rxxiZ8EYOVCaHdUVa9cmpD2ML6vRPmIFy68kA7cZkMlx5g4qsiiJzyMPlUs=w768-h1024-no?.png "[Linked Image]")
(Image courtesy of 4WD)
I know we've been down this road before. Not allowed to change my own oil cause I'm a condo dwelling geezer. I have a two liter, direct injection HyunKia engine. No real indication of fuel dilution and I'm not planning on getting a lab report. I'm using SuperTech syn on a 6K oci in order to get the odometer to a number divisible by 5K. I have a nearby tire store and a fistful of $10 coupons (really slightly more than $15 when they get all the fees and taxes tacked on).
Currently running 5w30 on the ST syn, and have run 5w20 Maxlife and VWB all without incident.
For 5w30-- it's hot in Missouri, notice no mileage change, it's a d.i. engine, it's probably sheared down to 5w20 anyway.
For 5w20-- that's what it says on the oil cap, less viscosity improvers means more oily goodness, .001% more gas mileage will buy me a c-store hotdog annually and I should take it.
I'm going in next week, using my Valvoline Conventional for $10 coupon (hopefully they won't reject me since VWB is shifting over to semi-syn marketing), and realize this debate has gone on before (and checked out those threads). Wide vs. narrow, thick vs. thin are ongoing debates on here. One more time-- just like a set list for a classic rock band full of 70 year olds.
What I like about 5W-20 is that it uses a thicker base oil than 5W-30 does. So, while the HTHS viscosity, which is relevant to the wear protection of the bearings, is a little less, the valvetrain, timing chain, and rings and liners will have less wear with 5W-20 than with 5w-30 because the base oil is thicker. Unless your engine specifies 5W-30 or you plan to drive at very high speeds (very high RPMs), stick with 5W-20 -- it will result in less engine wear because of its thicker base oil. Also, you will have less engine and turbocharger deposits with 5W-20 because it has less VII than 5W-30 has.
In fact you can probably make a monograde 5w-20 that uses no VII -- a 5W-20 that is also a SAE 20.
This old Mobil oil can claims 5w-20 protects better than 10W-40 does.
(Image courtesy of 4WD)
I'd be willing to wager my house that the claim being made on the can of M1 in your pic is referring to conventional 10W-40 oil, not synthetic oil.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
What I like about 5W-20 is that it uses a thicker base oil than 5W-30 does. So, while the HTHS viscosity, which is relevant to the wear protection of the bearings, is a little less, the valvetrain, timing chain, and rings and liners will have less wear with 5W-20 than with 5w-30 because the base oil is thicker. Unless your engine specifies 5W-30 or you plan to drive at very high speeds (very high RPMs), stick with 5W-20 -- it will result in less engine wear because of its thicker base oil. Also, you will have less engine and turbocharger deposits with 5W-20 because it has less VII than 5W-30 has.
In fact you can probably make a monograde 5w-20 that uses no VII -- a 5W-20 that is also a SAE 20.
This old Mobil oil can claims 5w-20 protects better than 10W-40 does.
(Image courtesy of 4WD)
Originally Posted by Gokhan
What I like about 5W-20 is that it uses a thicker base oil than 5W-30 does. So, while the HTHS viscosity, which is relevant to the wear protection of the bearings, is a little less, the valvetrain, timing chain, and rings and liners will have less wear with 5W-20 than with 5w-30 because the base oil is thicker. Unless your engine specifies 5W-30 or you plan to drive at very high speeds (very high RPMs), stick with 5W-20 -- it will result in less engine wear because of its thicker base oil. Also, you will have less engine and turbocharger deposits with 5W-20 because it has less VII than 5W-30 has.
In fact you can probably make a monograde 5w-20 that uses no VII -- a 5W-20 that is also a SAE 20.
This old Mobil oil can claims 5w-20 protects better than 10W-40 does.
(Image courtesy of 4WD)
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
Excellent point. I'm back to doing 5w30 on next change, then 5w20 in the fall. Doubt if I'll see any real difference.
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
Excellent point. I'm back to doing 5w30 on next change, then 5w20 in the fall. Doubt if I'll see any real difference.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I will add one last personal anecdote...
So far, the oil that's "felt" smoothest in my Sportage 2.4L is Mobil1 10W-30 High Mileage. The 3.5 HT/HS probably has something to do with that, not sure. With that said, no oil used ever "felt" rough.
So far, the oil that's "felt" smoothest in my Sportage 2.4L is Mobil1 10W-30 High Mileage. The 3.5 HT/HS probably has something to do with that, not sure. With that said, no oil used ever "felt" rough.
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Only when comparing conventional multi grades, because synthetics use very little VII or none.
Originally Posted by Rygrego
Only when comparing conventional multi grades, because synthetics use very little VII or none.
Hey there,
This is not true. It's an old wives' tale. We've been calculating the A_Harman indexes, which show that most synthetics are loaded with VII, with few exceptions. You can see my tables in the white-papers section.
Only when comparing conventional multi grades, because synthetics use very little VII or none.
Hey there,
This is not true. It's an old wives' tale. We've been calculating the A_Harman indexes, which show that most synthetics are loaded with VII, with few exceptions. You can see my tables in the white-papers section.
Go easy on me, I'm still learning.
Do viscosity improvers really take up that much space? With some comments saying less VI's means more room for real oil. Do we know how much VI's there are in say a 5w20 vs a 0w40 within the same brand? Like 50ml/liter vs 100ml/liter?
The various grades of oil within a brand typically all have the same mileage claims on the bottle. Should a 0wXX oil be run for shorter OCI's because of VI's? Are they really that detrimental to an oils lifespan that an OCI should be cut short or can it comfortably be run for the whole manufacturer's recommended OCI? Is technology improving in this area?
You've got me worried up here in Canada running 0w40's.
Do viscosity improvers really take up that much space? With some comments saying less VI's means more room for real oil. Do we know how much VI's there are in say a 5w20 vs a 0w40 within the same brand? Like 50ml/liter vs 100ml/liter?
The various grades of oil within a brand typically all have the same mileage claims on the bottle. Should a 0wXX oil be run for shorter OCI's because of VI's? Are they really that detrimental to an oils lifespan that an OCI should be cut short or can it comfortably be run for the whole manufacturer's recommended OCI? Is technology improving in this area?
You've got me worried up here in Canada running 0w40's.
Originally Posted by DaleRider
I'd be willing to wager my house that the claim being made on the can of M1 in your pic is referring to conventional 10W-40 oil, not synthetic oil.
Could also mean less wear during cold start-ups.
I'd be willing to wager my house that the claim being made on the can of M1 in your pic is referring to conventional 10W-40 oil, not synthetic oil.
Could also mean less wear during cold start-ups.
Originally Posted by wemay
Like i said, ran one (magnetic plug) in my 2011 2.4L Sonata and didn't notice a difference between 20 and 30. I wonder if the poster on that forum had a severe issue with that car. A difference that great isnt normal.
*I bought my own magnetic oil plug for my '17 Sonata and will run that test with both 5W20 & 5W30 then report back what I found .
Like i said, ran one (magnetic plug) in my 2011 2.4L Sonata and didn't notice a difference between 20 and 30. I wonder if the poster on that forum had a severe issue with that car. A difference that great isnt normal.
*I bought my own magnetic oil plug for my '17 Sonata and will run that test with both 5W20 & 5W30 then report back what I found .
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
That was my thought too.
*Could very well be right - it would take a few OCI's to get a realistic test ...
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
lol at the drain plug magnet test. Guy installs magnet and gathers up all the metal that has been shed in the engine throughout the life of it. Then the next OCI, surprise, less metal! That's like sweeping the floor after a year and then after another month and wondering why the first time there was more dirt.
That was my thought too.
*Could very well be right - it would take a few OCI's to get a realistic test ...
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by wemay
Like i said, ran one (magnetic plug) in my 2011 2.4L Sonata and didn't notice a difference between 20 and 30. I wonder if the poster on that forum had a severe issue with that car. A difference that great isnt normal.
*I bought my own magnetic oil plug for my '17 Sonata and will run that test with both 5W20 & 5W30 then report back what I found .
Why chance it in a GDI engine? I'd leave well enough alone and stick with the 5W30 you're using.
Originally Posted by wemay
Like i said, ran one (magnetic plug) in my 2011 2.4L Sonata and didn't notice a difference between 20 and 30. I wonder if the poster on that forum had a severe issue with that car. A difference that great isnt normal.
*I bought my own magnetic oil plug for my '17 Sonata and will run that test with both 5W20 & 5W30 then report back what I found .
Why chance it in a GDI engine? I'd leave well enough alone and stick with the 5W30 you're using.
*Is this statement true from the previous poster regarding the 5W20 base oil being thicker than 5W30 ? ... "What I like about 5W-20 is that it uses a thicker base oil than 5W-30 does. So, while the HTHS viscosity, which is relevant to the wear protection of the bearings, is a little less, the valvetrain, timing chain, and rings and liners will have less wear with 5W-20 than with 5w-30 because the base oil is thicker. Unless your engine specifies 5W-30 or you plan to drive at very high speeds (very high RPMs), stick with 5W-20 -- it will result in less engine wear because of its thicker base oil. Also, you will have less engine and turbocharger deposits with 5W-20 because it has less VII than 5W-30 has".
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