I replied to your op. Might be on page two. I don't see the issue as one of either of the recommended viscosities, rather an issue of over extended ocis and lack of owner maintenance.
One more bite at the 5w20 v. 5w30 debate:
- Thread starter csandste
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Originally Posted by Red91
I replied to your op. Might be on page two. I don't see the issue as one of either of the recommended viscosities, rather an issue of over extended ocis and lack of owner maintenance.
Agree totally, which is why (after stretching out to 6300 with ST 5w30 syn) I'm going on a strict, divide by 5000 mile OCI...65K, 70K, 75K... served me well with every HyunKia engine I've ever had.
I replied to your op. Might be on page two. I don't see the issue as one of either of the recommended viscosities, rather an issue of over extended ocis and lack of owner maintenance.
Agree totally, which is why (after stretching out to 6300 with ST 5w30 syn) I'm going on a strict, divide by 5000 mile OCI...65K, 70K, 75K... served me well with every HyunKia engine I've ever had.
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GF has same engine in her 2018 Hyundai Elantra... it gets 5w30 conventional and next oil change will get 10w30 conventional for the rest of the summer. 6,000 mile intervals with lots of highway at present... oil changed about every 3 months. If it ran shorter trips, then 5,000 miles or 6 month intervals on 5w30 is the plan.
5W-30. Year round.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by csandste
I know we've been down this road before. Not allowed to change my own oil cause I'm a condo dwelling geezer. I have a two liter, direct injection HyunKia engine. No real indication of fuel dilution and I'm not planning on getting a lab report. I'm using SuperTech syn on a 6K oci in order to get the odometer to a number divisible by 5K. I have a nearby tire store and a fistful of $10 coupons (really slightly more than $15 when they get all the fees and taxes tacked on).
Currently running 5w30 on the ST syn, and have run 5w20 Maxlife and VWB all without incident.
For 5w30-- it's hot in Missouri, notice no mileage change, it's a d.i. engine, it's probably sheared down to 5w20 anyway.
For 5w20-- that's what it says on the oil cap, less viscosity improvers means more oily goodness, .001% more gas mileage will buy me a c-store hotdog annually and I should take it.
I'm going in next week, using my Valvoline Conventional for $10 coupon (hopefully they won't reject me since VWB is shifting over to semi-syn marketing), and realize this debate has gone on before (and checked out those threads). Wide vs. narrow, thick vs. thin are ongoing debates on here. One more time-- just like a set list for a classic rock band full of 70 year olds.
No brainer - 5w30.
Stop at 5K next time. One day your Korean make will thank you.
Stop the house brands also. One day your Korean make will get you safely home, after succumbing to a bad limp.
God, close your mouth already mister foul mouth!!! All you do is hate and provide misinformation. GO AWAY FOR GOOD!!
Originally Posted by csandste
I know we've been down this road before. Not allowed to change my own oil cause I'm a condo dwelling geezer. I have a two liter, direct injection HyunKia engine. No real indication of fuel dilution and I'm not planning on getting a lab report. I'm using SuperTech syn on a 6K oci in order to get the odometer to a number divisible by 5K. I have a nearby tire store and a fistful of $10 coupons (really slightly more than $15 when they get all the fees and taxes tacked on).
Currently running 5w30 on the ST syn, and have run 5w20 Maxlife and VWB all without incident.
For 5w30-- it's hot in Missouri, notice no mileage change, it's a d.i. engine, it's probably sheared down to 5w20 anyway.
For 5w20-- that's what it says on the oil cap, less viscosity improvers means more oily goodness, .001% more gas mileage will buy me a c-store hotdog annually and I should take it.
I'm going in next week, using my Valvoline Conventional for $10 coupon (hopefully they won't reject me since VWB is shifting over to semi-syn marketing), and realize this debate has gone on before (and checked out those threads). Wide vs. narrow, thick vs. thin are ongoing debates on here. One more time-- just like a set list for a classic rock band full of 70 year olds.
No brainer - 5w30.
Stop at 5K next time. One day your Korean make will thank you.
Stop the house brands also. One day your Korean make will get you safely home, after succumbing to a bad limp.
God, close your mouth already mister foul mouth!!! All you do is hate and provide misinformation. GO AWAY FOR GOOD!!
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Ok,I didn't want to have to do this but I'm left with no choice. Time to bring out the big guns.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/penrite-hpr-50-40w70-5-ltr-hpr50005
I need some of that for the XJ in my sig-my son got stuck in a 90F+ traffic jam for TWO HOURS yesterday, managed to boil off TWO QUARTS of Max Life (NG) 10W40 & actually overheated it (with a new water pump, thermostat, & full cooling system), requiring a 1 1/2 hour cool off & top off to get it running again. I told him he's buying a new 3 row aluminum radiator before he manages to destroy a nearly indestructible 4.0, since he can't roll down the windows, shut it off, & sweat a little!
Ok,I didn't want to have to do this but I'm left with no choice. Time to bring out the big guns.
https://www.autobarn.com.au/penrite-hpr-50-40w70-5-ltr-hpr50005
I need some of that for the XJ in my sig-my son got stuck in a 90F+ traffic jam for TWO HOURS yesterday, managed to boil off TWO QUARTS of Max Life (NG) 10W40 & actually overheated it (with a new water pump, thermostat, & full cooling system), requiring a 1 1/2 hour cool off & top off to get it running again. I told him he's buying a new 3 row aluminum radiator before he manages to destroy a nearly indestructible 4.0, since he can't roll down the windows, shut it off, & sweat a little!
And to the OP-you won't go wrong with 5W20 or 5W30-they're both pretty much synthetic blends these days from the majors, and both could handle even FL heat easily for 5K. Remember to keep your oil receipts, you're still under Kia drivetrain warranty until 100K-and I would use whatever they recommend to cover your [gluteus maximus]!
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
And to the OP-you won't go wrong with 5W20 or 5W30-they're both pretty much synthetic blends these days from the majors, and both could handle even FL heat easily for 5K. Remember to keep your oil receipts, you're still under Kia drivetrain warranty until 100K-and I would use whatever they recommend to cover your [gluteus maximus]!
No such luck. Hertz car and warranty ran out.
And to the OP-you won't go wrong with 5W20 or 5W30-they're both pretty much synthetic blends these days from the majors, and both could handle even FL heat easily for 5K. Remember to keep your oil receipts, you're still under Kia drivetrain warranty until 100K-and I would use whatever they recommend to cover your [gluteus maximus]!
No such luck. Hertz car and warranty ran out.
Hyundai / Kia 2.0L TGDI engines get 5W40 (per the OM) .
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 5K miles it'll be in the sump.
Quick question--and I haven't checked the recommendations for the 2 liter turbo-- if I had di and a turbo I'd be running syn too. Does Hyundai recommend 5w30 and if 5w20 holds up better (because of less vi) why not go for 5w20 syn in that too?
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 5K miles it'll be in the sump.
Quick question--and I haven't checked the recommendations for the 2 liter turbo-- if I had di and a turbo I'd be running syn too. Does Hyundai recommend 5w30 and if 5w20 holds up better (because of less vi) why not go for 5w20 syn in that too?
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Hyundai / Kia 2.0L TGDI engines get 5W40 (per the OM) .
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 5K miles it'll be in the sump.
Quick question--and I haven't checked the recommendations for the 2 liter turbo-- if I had di and a turbo I'd be running syn too. Does Hyundai recommend 5w30 and if 5w20 holds up better (because of less vi) why not go for 5w20 syn in that too?
First recommendation in my manual is 5W-30 for our 2013 SFS 2.0T. 15W-40, 5W-40, 10W-30 are all listed as well. We've never received an updated recommendation where 5W-40 was primary. As an aside, i believe 5W-30 is still primary since the first cert listed in the 2.0T manuals since 2016+ is ACEA A5.
Hyundai / Kia 2.0L TGDI engines get 5W40 (per the OM) .
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 5K miles it'll be in the sump.
Quick question--and I haven't checked the recommendations for the 2 liter turbo-- if I had di and a turbo I'd be running syn too. Does Hyundai recommend 5w30 and if 5w20 holds up better (because of less vi) why not go for 5w20 syn in that too?
First recommendation in my manual is 5W-30 for our 2013 SFS 2.0T. 15W-40, 5W-40, 10W-30 are all listed as well. We've never received an updated recommendation where 5W-40 was primary. As an aside, i believe 5W-30 is still primary since the first cert listed in the 2.0T manuals since 2016+ is ACEA A5.
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
And to the OP-you won't go wrong with 5W20 or 5W30-they're both pretty much synthetic blends these days from the majors, and both could handle even FL heat easily for 5K. Remember to keep your oil receipts, you're still under Kia drivetrain warranty until 100K-and I would use whatever they recommend to cover your [gluteus maximus]!
Where in the Hyundai's sales contract or anywhere does it says you have to keep oil receipts to maintain warranty? That can't be used on you in the USA with the M-M W Act, but many horror stories about Hyundai Canada. All you have to do is pull the valve cover and the story is told. I have zero worries, I change out my oil around 3,500 in the summer and 3,000 in the Minnesota short tripping winters. At 80,000 if I still own my Hyundai you will be able to eat rice from my cylinder head valve train. They still tried that on me with my tanked Elantra GT with 14,000 miles, I told them you don't need receipts, all you need to do is look at the valve train, after that nothing was said and I received a new long block even with a Fram Ultra on it. They commented on the oil filter, that they had to stick theirs on to test it, I said fine.
And to the OP-you won't go wrong with 5W20 or 5W30-they're both pretty much synthetic blends these days from the majors, and both could handle even FL heat easily for 5K. Remember to keep your oil receipts, you're still under Kia drivetrain warranty until 100K-and I would use whatever they recommend to cover your [gluteus maximus]!
Where in the Hyundai's sales contract or anywhere does it says you have to keep oil receipts to maintain warranty? That can't be used on you in the USA with the M-M W Act, but many horror stories about Hyundai Canada. All you have to do is pull the valve cover and the story is told. I have zero worries, I change out my oil around 3,500 in the summer and 3,000 in the Minnesota short tripping winters. At 80,000 if I still own my Hyundai you will be able to eat rice from my cylinder head valve train. They still tried that on me with my tanked Elantra GT with 14,000 miles, I told them you don't need receipts, all you need to do is look at the valve train, after that nothing was said and I received a new long block even with a Fram Ultra on it. They commented on the oil filter, that they had to stick theirs on to test it, I said fine.
Originally Posted by csandste
I have a two liter, direct injection HyunKia engine. No real indication of fuel dilution and I'm not planning on getting a lab report.
I'd never run a xW-20 in any DI engine, turboed or not.
I have a two liter, direct injection HyunKia engine. No real indication of fuel dilution and I'm not planning on getting a lab report.
I'd never run a xW-20 in any DI engine, turboed or not.
*I stand to be corrected - however when Hyundai releases a TSB stating 5W40 is now an acceptable oil weight - then I would use it as to me that means 5W30 oil weight is just barely acceptable now in the 2.0 T .
Originally Posted by wemay
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Hyundai / Kia 2.0L TGDI engines get 5W40 (per the OM) .
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 5K miles it'll be in the sump.
Quick question--and I haven't checked the recommendations for the 2 liter turbo-- if I had di and a turbo I'd be running syn too. Does Hyundai recommend 5w30 and if 5w20 holds up better (because of less vi) why not go for 5w20 syn in that too?
First recommendation in my manual is 5W-30 for our 2013 SFS 2.0T. 15W-40, 5W-40, 10W-30 are all listed as well. We've never received an updated recommendation where 5W-40 was primary. As an aside, i believe 5W-30 is still primary since the first cert listed in the 2.0T manuals since 2016+ is ACEA A5.
Originally Posted by wemay
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Hyundai / Kia 2.0L TGDI engines get 5W40 (per the OM) .
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 5K miles it'll be in the sump.
Quick question--and I haven't checked the recommendations for the 2 liter turbo-- if I had di and a turbo I'd be running syn too. Does Hyundai recommend 5w30 and if 5w20 holds up better (because of less vi) why not go for 5w20 syn in that too?
First recommendation in my manual is 5W-30 for our 2013 SFS 2.0T. 15W-40, 5W-40, 10W-30 are all listed as well. We've never received an updated recommendation where 5W-40 was primary. As an aside, i believe 5W-30 is still primary since the first cert listed in the 2.0T manuals since 2016+ is ACEA A5.
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
A one off isn't exactly a scientific study, but having been on the fence, this pushes me off on the 5w30 side. Thanks for posting.
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
A one off isn't exactly a scientific study, but having been on the fence, this pushes me off on the 5w30 side. Thanks for posting.
Originally Posted by csandste
OK-- Side question.
If 5w20 is so great, why does GM stick with 5w30 as the backbone for it's Dexos (and pre-Dexos) oil recommendations?
Hmmm, my buddy;s 2018 Equinox 1.5L Turbo/GDI requires 0W20.
OK-- Side question.
If 5w20 is so great, why does GM stick with 5w30 as the backbone for it's Dexos (and pre-Dexos) oil recommendations?
Hmmm, my buddy;s 2018 Equinox 1.5L Turbo/GDI requires 0W20.
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
A one off isn't exactly a scientific study, but having been on the fence, this pushes me off on the 5w30 side. Thanks for posting.
That seems pretty compelling for me too, to stay on the 5W30 side of the fence.
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
A one off isn't exactly a scientific study, but having been on the fence, this pushes me off on the 5w30 side. Thanks for posting.
That seems pretty compelling for me too, to stay on the 5W30 side of the fence.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I used a plug magnet on my 2011 Sonata 2 4 GDi. There was no difference between the two viscosity. But as was said earlier, if you sleep better at night using a W-30, it will work just fine too.
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
A one off isn't exactly a scientific study, but having been on the fence, this pushes me off on the 5w30 side. Thanks for posting.
*I bought my own magnetic oil drain plug to run my own test ... I contacted the original poster on the Hyundai forum who said that literally on 5W20 the magnetic drain plug looked like a "Chia Head" with all the metal shavings stuck to it - he didn't even make it to 3,750 miles severe service and changed the oil at only 3,000 miles on the 2.4L GDI engine ... Wow !
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Food For Thought : In a Hyundai forum a poster did an experiment running a 5W20 synthetic for 3,750 miles in a new Hyundai 2.4L GDI and the next time he ran a 5W30 synthetic in the same brand also to 3,750 miles . *He also used a drain plug magnet . The end result was the drain plug using 5W20 had quite a rounded plume of metal shavings stuck to the magnet while the 5W30 had far less (just a mild trace coating of metal shavings surrounding the magnet ) . At least in the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine this test with a oil drain plug magnet speaks volumes - I now use 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 oil for an OCI of less than 5K miles in my 2.4L GDI Sonata .
A one off isn't exactly a scientific study, but having been on the fence, this pushes me off on the 5w30 side. Thanks for posting.
*I bought my own magnetic oil drain plug to run my own test ... I contacted the original poster on the Hyundai forum who said that literally on 5W20 the magnetic drain plug looked like a "Chia Head" with all the metal shavings stuck to it - he didn't even make it to 3,750 miles severe service and changed the oil at only 3,000 miles on the 2.4L GDI engine ... Wow !
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