Oiled the Lug Bolts

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Nov 7, 2022
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I know there are numerous threads on why NOT to oil the bolts. Too late for that.

After wire brushing off the rust, I sprayed the bolts with some Seafoam Deep Creep to get remaining rust off, then carefully wiped the threads off with paper towel. I'm realizing now that I can't simply wipe away oil and there is likely a significant residue and that I should probably remove and clean bolts and inner threads with brake fluid. Am I being over cautious to remove and clean with brake fluid, or being stupid if I don't?
 
"brake fluid" doesnt clean anything and a light oil residue wont hurt anything.

Did you use a torque wrench when installing?
Is this for a subaru they spec around 70ft/lb iirc.
to remove and clean with brake fluid,
 
I thought brake fluid would be a solvent for the oil and help remove it.

I torqued to 100 ft lbs - Audi's spec for an SQ5.
 
I think he's being pedantic, I'm sure what you meant was brake cleaner, which is either perchloroethylene or a blend of acetone and similar solvents, not brake fluid which is typically a glycol polymer.
Of course... an unconscious slip - brake cleaner for sure. Thanks for pointing out my mistake.
 
The oil on lug bolts doesn't cause any harm in and of itself. The damage is caused when the lug nuts (I'm assuming an American or Asian car?) are tightened. By having lubricant on the bolts, chances are the nuts turned on further than normal, even if torqued to spec. This extra turning probably stretched the lug bolts.

I'm not sure about all the risks of stretched lug bolts, but I know one is that, now that the bolt threads have changed pitch, they no longer match up with the threads in the lug nuts, and the lug nuts become more difficult to remove. This can be severe enough to result in the lug bolt having to be broken to get the lug nut off.

I'm no metallurgist, but I suspect that stretched lug bolts also loose strength. any time metal is stretched beyond the point where it can return to it's original state, it looses strength.
 
Sounds like what you do is similar to what I just did, as WD40 and Deep Creep are both penetrating oils. I did the wipe down as well. Seems logical and glad you've had no problems with this.
 
My 1971 Dodge FSM allows for dry or engine oil threads, but no other lubes, and none on the tapered seat.
Not only will anti-seize etc lead to over-torque, but could allow loosening.
Budd wheel nut torque is 450 ft-lbs
 
Quite often I’ve seen torque specs for lightly oiled threads.

Ive had much bad luck with over torquing this year only. Never before.
 
When I worked at a tire shop their sop was antiseize on all studs. I don't anymore but while working there I'm sure I lubed thousands upon thousands of lug studs and bolts, never had or heard of an issue.
 
If you adjust the applied torque to your lubricated lug nuts then I think you will be fine. By adding lube your changing the coefficient of friction and over tightening your lug nuts.

Just my $0.02
 
You'll be fine.
By design, lugnuts are overengineered. There has to be a large margin for error because they are often removed and reinstalled on the side of the road. Much of the time "as tight as you can get it with the tire iron". Which could be a little old lady or a dozer bro.
Even greased, you have to really whale on it to stretch the threads.
 
I've read on occasion that globbing oil onto your bolts or pouring it into lug nuts can be the biggest danger, as the oil is forced to the end of the lug nut and builds up pressure, giving the false sensation of actually being tight. I would hope that nobody would use that much oil on lug nuts and bolts, but you never know what folks will do these days. I think a light oiling with some or most wiped away would be fine, especially for those of us who do not torque to the manufacturers specifications. My Mustang calls for 150, I give it 110, so if I'm tightening more than I think I am, I'm still not over-tightening.
 
Nothing on the lug nuts/stems. Just clean and torque to spec. but use a VERY LIGHT coating of high-temp. antisieze between hub and wheel to ease removal of wheels at next tire rotation. Have found they tend to stick. I stress DO NOT get it on the threads!
 
On hub-centric wheels 30W oil drops are recommended, but nothing on the mating surface of a stud mount (Budd):
"Stud thread lubricated with light machine oil. Ensure that nut cone is DRY."
and
Do not paint disk wheel mounting surfaces, dual wheel mating surfaces, wheel nut seating surfaces, and wheel hub mounting surfaces

 
I thought brake fluid would be a solvent for the oil and help remove it.

I torqued to 100 ft lbs - Audi's spec for an SQ5.
I think you are 100% fine, with no lube on the bolt head to wheel interface, I doubt a bit of penetrating lube on the threads is adding much to your bolt strain at 100 ft lbs. Your bolt strain might be at the same as110ft lbs... or 120 ft lbs... tire shops every day over torque by way more than that with only the extreme over torquing causing problems.
What I like to do is tighten and torque and then put a drop of oil on the nuts to seep in where ever it can.
 
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I know there are numerous threads on why NOT to oil the bolts. Too late for that.
Nah, not too late. Here are just a few. Maybe your supplementary cleaning question can be found in one of these:

 
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