Oil Recoomendations for a '05 Colorado

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M1 5w30 is a good choice - it provides excellent cold weather/cold crank performance.

And no, while Valvoline Synpower is an option, we have not seen any documented evidence that it provides any performance benefits in the 3.5L, 5 cylinder engine.
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The owners manual for my wifes 05 Uplander recomends 5W30 year round but says you can use 0W30 in extreme cold conditions. Ditch the idea of 10W30 and stick with 5 or 0W30.Also out of curiosity why aren't you using GM's oil life monitor? Everything on here indicates it is a very accurate system.
 
Shame on you for not following the GM Oil Life Monitor.
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Seriously, the conventionals oils are good for the intervals suggested by the OLM.

However, I'd continue using the Havoline or Trop Artic Blend 5w30 ($1.50/qt at Walmart) @ 3-5K / 6 mo. drains with an Ecore filter and be done with it.

Michael
 
Hi

For the coldest time of the year, I'll use M1.

Would the 0w30 M1 meet the GM warranty requirements for the I-5 ?
 
Hi

We have a '05 Chev Colorado 4x4 Crew Cab with the 3.5 5cyl.

I just changed out the factory fill @ 3000 miles with 5w30 Havoline, intending on another change at 6k. We will NOT be using the DIC for oil changes.
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However, I look for the next OCI to be about late November, with that new fill going through the coldest days of the year in Jan. Temps can get as low as -35F occaisionally here.

What does everyone think about 6 qts. of M1 5w30 or with one 10w30 qt M1 replacing its 5w counterpart?

Is a fill of 0w30 GC ok for this I-5 with under 10k miles and operating in very cold conditions?
 
I love GC.
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Having said that, I would opt for straight M1 5w30 or at -35°F M1 0w30 if you really must do unaided cold starts at that temp. You will get better cold cranking performance out of the M1 and satisfy all warranty requirements. No, I would not mix in any M1 10w30.
 
Hi

Over at a Colorado enthusiast site, some OLM havent indicated a need for a oil change in almost 10k miles.

Why would someone trust that thing???
 
quote:

Originally posted by lght1:
Hi

Over at a Colorado enthusiast site, some OLM havent indicated a need for a oil change in almost 10k miles.

Why would someone trust that thing???


There are some very interesting articles about the OLM system out there on the internet. I've looked a several of them (I used to own a late 90s GM product that had the system). What I've taken away is that unless you live in an extraordinarily dusty environment, you can very safely trust the system. It is calibrated very carefully to each engine-trans-vehicle combination. Additionally, it's calculation is designed to include a generous safety margin so that when it tells you to change, there's actually a significant amount of oil life left. Finally, if you compare our UOAs here, and especially residual TBN values with the OLM performance reported from owners (yes, yes, very anecdotal), you'll see that the OLM is effective.

On the other hand, it is your vehicle, your money, and your comfort that's involved. If you just can't trust the system for whatever reason, then follow some other sensible plan that you can live with. But I do still recommend that you do some Googling of the OLM and related topics; I think you'd find the stuff that's out there interesting.
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I would suggest that you continue to use the Havoline if you aren't extending your oil changes. It's a great oil, and changing M1 at 3K intervals seems like overkill to me.
 
Hi

I remember this same issue came up a few months ago on a colorado board when someone tried to say 8-12k oci on dino based on the DIC was acceptable.

The DIC cannot possible take into consideration the capabilities of individual oils, amount of EP ingredients remaining or the degree to which the oil has gone out of grade.

Not impressed with the DIC.

Just a gadget for those who have trouble remembering to maintain their cars.

I will do a UOA @6k mi, and another at 11K mi on its M1 fill. That most likely will be in Feb.
 
I know 'dino' oils are getting to be quite good.

I know Group III and especially Group III+ can be nearly as good as Group IV and V...and in some ways can be better.

I know that the GM OLM is well researched and designed and is very accurate with the specified oil.

So I know that I could run a good oil like Havoline out to 95% or 100% on the OLM...but old habits die hard.

I still prefer to feel there's a wider margin of safety.

So I stick with Redline, Mobil 1, Mobil 1 EP , Delo 400, Mobil 7500.

[ and I may try GC and a few top Amsoil products ]

And I think I'll either run my OCI at a predetermined length such as 5K for Mobil 7500, 7K to 10K for Redline and Mobil 1 EP etc.

If I use the OLM in my 2005 Silverado Duramax, I think I'll compare it to mileage and either change at 70% on the OLM or my max OCI for a given oil.

In the near future the improved oils and the data may move me into the OLM and factory oil camp.

Meanwhile, if I had a nice new 2005 Colorado my choice would be Mobil 1 5w30 at 7K OCI with a Purolator Pure One PL25288 or Mobil 1 M1-206 oil filter.

I'd also think about Mobil 1 0w30 and 0W-40, Amsoil S2K 0W-30, Amsoil S3K 5w30, or GC 0W-30.

If the UOA's were good I'd see how that matched the OLM and move out to 10K or 85% on the OLM.
 
Hi

Over at the colorado forums, there were those who claimed their OLM had gone nearly 10k and still hadnt called for a change...on dino!!

At almost $30k, I guess I wont rely on a device that doesnot sample for remaining additive pack or wear metals, and is quite oblivious to just what oil is in there in the first place.
 
I have used the OLM in my GM's for years. It works and works well. Right now I have over 6500 miles on my 2005 CTS and the OLM just dipped below 50% remaining. My 04 GMC 5.3L comeso on about once a year, just over 10g miles.

But I do use synthetic oils and have been since 1977. The CTS came with Mobil 1.

I have posted this info from GM before.


Oil Life Monitor --
How Does It Know?
How long will oil last in an engine? What reduces the oil’s effectiveness? When should it be changed?
Lubrication engineers perform a number of tests to answer these kinds of questions. Vehicles are operated under prescribed conditions, and periodically a sample of the oil is taken into the laboratory for analysis. When the condition of the oil is no longer satisfactory, the mileage is noted. From controlled testing like this, engineers in the past have determined two sets of mileage numbers, one number for normal driving and the other for severe conditions. Severe conditions can mean that the vehicle is driven hot (for example, pulling a trailer up a mountain) or is driven such that the oil never warms completely (for example, trips less than 5 or 10 miles in a winter climate). It is then up to the owner to decide whether their own driving is normal or severe and to change the oil accordingly. Now, science and technology have found a way of taking the guesswork out of the picture. GM is installing an oil life monitor in an increasing number of new vehicles. Using a simple indicator lamp or readout on the instrument panel, this system notifies the driver when to change the oil. The February and March 2000 issues of TechLink explain how to reset these monitors.

Here’s information on how an oil life monitor works.
Additives
Straight oil is not an ideal lubricant in an engine. A package of additives is needed to give the oil properties it does not naturally have or to enhance its natural properties. Some of the tasks accomplished by additives:
- viscosity modifiers, to keep the oil the proper thickness over a wide range of operating temperatures
- anti-oxidant, to keep the oil from thickening
- corrosion inhibitors, to protect engine components
- anti-wear
- anti-foam
- detergents, to suspend solid particles.
What Makes Oil "Wear Out?"
If you were to start out with a crankcase full of fresh, clean oil, and drove the vehicle for a period of time, eventually the oil would have to be changed. During this time, what can change fresh oil into "worn out" oil?
First, dilution. When gasoline is burned in the combustion chamber, the by-products include a lot of water. Some of this water can find its way into the crankcase through piston ring blow-by. If the engine is cold, and if combustion is not perfectly complete, a small amount of acid is formed. It, too, can blow-by into the oil. You don’t need to be a top-notch scientist to realize that water and acid aren’t good things to pump through the lubrication system of the engine. If an engine is run long enough for the engine oil to warm, the water
and acids will evaporate and not accumulate. But, during very short trips in cold weather, water and acids can enter the engine oil and cause the oil to "wear out." Second, the degradation of the oil and its additives. We mentioned earlier that a number of additives are put into oil to improve its performance. If these additives are degraded or decomposed, the oil is no longer capable of doing all of its jobs properly. Oil with
degraded additives can become thick and dark. Additives become degraded by exposure to extreme heat. There are two places a lot of heat can reach the oil. One is near the combustion chamber. Oil at the top piston ring is exposed to very high temperature. And some bearing surfaces can also put a lot of heat into the oil at high operating temperatures. So, degradation of additives from high temperature operation is the second factor that can cause oil to "wear out."
How Can Operating Conditions be Used to Predict Oil Life?
Using carefully controlled laboratory tests, it’s possible for lubrication engineers to measure how long it takes to dilute engine oil during cold operation. And it’s possible to measure how long it takes for high temperature
to degrade the additives. We usually think of measuring time in hours and minutes, but for an engine, the
amount of revolutions it has run is also a good measure. So for the purposes of oil life, time is measured in engine revolutions. Engineers like to talk in terms of models. A model is a way to describe something
mathematically. It’s possible to create an oil life model that very carefully matches the results of analyzing the oil in a laboratory. The oil life monitor, then, is based on a model. A computer chip in the Powertrain
Control Module is loaded with a certain number of engine revolution counts. The count for each engine/vehicle combination is determined by testing. As the engine runs, each revolution is subtracted from the remaining count in the oil life monitor. When the count reaches zero, the instrument panel light comes on. But, here’s the clever part. When the various input sensors detect that the engine is running under either cold or hot conditions, it subtracts extra counts (penalties) for each engine revolution. So, the conditions
that cause the oil to "wear out" make the counter run down faster. When the oil is changed, it’s necessary to
reset the oil life monitor (see the February and March 2000 issues of TechLink) and the countdown begins again.

NOTE: Synthetic oil resists "wearing out" better than mineral oil, so the oil life monitor
is set to account for this, but only on vehicles that are specified for synthetic oil from the
factory -- the Corvette, for instance. Using synthetic oil in other vehicles is certainly not
harmful, but the oil life monitor will continue to count down as though the engine contained
mineral oil.

- Shirley Schwartz contributed to this article
 
I just checked the OLM in my wifes Uplander. 2700 miles on M1 5w30 and it is showing 59% left. This is mostly short trips around town and to work which is 3 miles one way.At this rate it'll have around 5000-6000 on it when it approaches zero. That is pretty accurate to me. M1 might be overkill but the price is right using the PepBoys coupons.
 
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