Oil Recommendation

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Fellow BITOGS,

I purchase a 2012 Dodge Caravan Crew with the 3.6 Pentastar has 75,000 on it. Supposedly it's always had MOBIL 1 ran through it. What would be a good oil for this van? Any recommendations would be appreciated. I would like to get away from the synthetic oil.
 
Is there a compelling reason to move away from a synthetic?
2012 uses 5w30, 2013 and on, same engine, they want 5w20. Either would be fine in the 2012.
You asked for a recommendation, and taking your move away from synthetic into account, I'd recommend Valvoline MaxLife 5w30.
 
Whats the reason to get away from syn oil? What OCI will you be running? Id go Pennzoil conventional if not going the syn route. Otherwise nothing wrong with going Mobil as previous owner did.
 
3-4K oil changes... A lot of town driving... Synthetic oil is too expensive and thats why I want to get away from it.
 
I use Pennzoil Conventional (cap calls 5w-20) for 5k OCIs. Makes it easy for me to remember (5k) OCs. No leaks and no topping the level.
add - just about any of the big brands should do it.. Pennzoil Conventional, Quaker State, Mobil Super 5000, Valvoline......
 
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Use M1 and double your OCI. It's cheaper that way than dino, and you get the benefits of a quality synthetic.
 
Agree with tig1, especially since that's what has been used to date. Stick with the M1 and go at least 5000 7500 miles. With a used oil analysis you can likely go a lot further.

The 3.6 is supposed to do well on any oil and is a solid engine; if you need to move away from synthetic due to cost, then ST is your oil.
 
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With 2.00 clearance oil at AZ, and frequent offerings of NAPA synthetic at 2.99 a quart, or even Walmart price for a jug of any of the synthetics holding around 25.00, you are better off to follow the OLM on synthetic. I have a 2012, just turned 86,000. I ran Castrol 0w30 for a long time, then Havoline synthetic, last change was 0w40 from AZ clearance at 2.00 a quart.
Also just dropped a grand on plugs (misfire codes, plenum on top of engine has to come off to change), O2 sensors,(both upstream lazy, showing failed and catalyst efficiency low) and rear brakes (again). It will need a third set of front brakes in the spring. If my wife didn't love the dang thing it would have been gone long ago.
MaxLife will do well at 5000 mile intervals, but if you find synthetic expensive, wait until you get a few more miles on it. Synthetic oil is the cheapest thing you'll put in it.
 
Originally Posted By: beadvised
3-4K oil changes... A lot of town driving... Synthetic oil is too expensive and thats why I want to get away from it.
Engines are cheap, oil is expensive.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Use M1 and double your OCI. It's cheaper that way than dino, and you get the benefits of a quality synthetic.

Another agree with tig1......synthetic is the way to go and with rebates.....are as cheap, or cheaper, then conventional. In addition, you will be able to extend your OCI easily to 8000+/- miles. You'll save time and $$$.

A good filter will also help in cutting costs....such as a Fram Ultra or Tough Guard (both can be bought at WalMart).

With rebates....I recently purchased Pennzoil Platinum (0w20) 5-quart jug for under $10 (with rebate).
 
Originally Posted By: beadvised
3-4K oil changes... A lot of town driving... Synthetic oil is too expensive and thats why I want to get away from it.

You are fck kidding, right?
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil
Is there a compelling reason to move away from a synthetic?
2012 uses 5w30, 2013 and on, same engine, they want 5w20. Either would be fine in the 2012.
You asked for a recommendation, and taking your move away from synthetic into account, I'd recommend Valvoline MaxLife 5w30.


+ a few hundred
smile.gif
 
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