Oil recommendation for my car (details in post)
- Thread starter Luisraul924
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No! Some of that oil flush stuff will hang out in the engine even after the oil is drained. If you feel you must, then run a second flush with cheap oil. My grandfather used to speak fondly of the twenties and thirties when oil was five cents a quart, and good oil was ten cents a quart. He would flush his 1932 V8 Ford with the five cent oil before filling up with the good ten cent oil.
Yeah I definitely won't be flushing my engine. What I'm curious about though is; why would a reputable company like Amsoil recommend (their own of course) performing an oil flush prior to switching to Amsoil or any synthetic from a mineral oil?
Originally Posted By: Luisraul924
Yeah I definitely won't be flushing my engine. What I'm curious about though is; why would a reputable company like Amsoil recommend (their own of course) performing an oil flush prior to switching to Amsoil or any synthetic from a mineral oil?
Problem is, just because someone types something on BITOG doesn't mean it's truth. Most people who post here don't know all that much about tribology. The warnings in general to avoid flushes are OK, I suppose - but that doesn't mean every product on the market is dangerous or harmful or useless. Before I recommend an engine flush, I need to know more and why the engine needs a flush. Amsoil Engine Flush is primarily good for cleaning out and rinsing out known sludge. And it works. It doesn't instantly clean patina varnish, which a) tells you it's not some aggressive solvent b) normal age/ thin oil varnish is not harmful. If directions are followed and oil is allowed to drain well, residual cleaner left behind is minute and not harmful.
Yeah I definitely won't be flushing my engine. What I'm curious about though is; why would a reputable company like Amsoil recommend (their own of course) performing an oil flush prior to switching to Amsoil or any synthetic from a mineral oil?
Problem is, just because someone types something on BITOG doesn't mean it's truth. Most people who post here don't know all that much about tribology. The warnings in general to avoid flushes are OK, I suppose - but that doesn't mean every product on the market is dangerous or harmful or useless. Before I recommend an engine flush, I need to know more and why the engine needs a flush. Amsoil Engine Flush is primarily good for cleaning out and rinsing out known sludge. And it works. It doesn't instantly clean patina varnish, which a) tells you it's not some aggressive solvent b) normal age/ thin oil varnish is not harmful. If directions are followed and oil is allowed to drain well, residual cleaner left behind is minute and not harmful.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Problem is, just because someone types something on BITOG doesn't mean it's truth. Most people who post here don't know all that much about tribology. The warnings in general to avoid flushes are OK, I suppose - but that doesn't mean every product on the market is dangerous or harmful or useless. Before I recommend an engine flush, I need to know more and why the engine needs a flush. Amsoil Engine Flush is primarily good for cleaning out and rinsing out known sludge. And it works. It doesn't instantly clean patina varnish, which a) tells you it's not some aggressive solvent b) normal age/ thin oil varnish is not harmful. If directions are followed and oil is allowed to drain well, residual cleaner left behind is minute and not harmful.
My engine has 99,700 miles on it. It's the 2AZ-FE Toyota motor (in a Scion tC) and I got it at 86,000 miles I am the second owner of the vehicle but I have no idea how well the previous owner took care of the car. When I got it I immediately changed the oil to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20 with a Fram Ultra filter and PUP+Fram Ultra is the combo I've been using ever since the only difference is I went up to 10W-30 to reduce some oil consumption. After the discussion on this thread I have realized that I chose well and will be sticking with what I'm already using. I understand that oil flushes are great to clean out sludge but I highly doubt the engine is sludged up as my drains are coming out relatively clean. Also performance wise the engine runs great. I doubt it needs a flush but I just wanted to get opinions on it.
Problem is, just because someone types something on BITOG doesn't mean it's truth. Most people who post here don't know all that much about tribology. The warnings in general to avoid flushes are OK, I suppose - but that doesn't mean every product on the market is dangerous or harmful or useless. Before I recommend an engine flush, I need to know more and why the engine needs a flush. Amsoil Engine Flush is primarily good for cleaning out and rinsing out known sludge. And it works. It doesn't instantly clean patina varnish, which a) tells you it's not some aggressive solvent b) normal age/ thin oil varnish is not harmful. If directions are followed and oil is allowed to drain well, residual cleaner left behind is minute and not harmful.
My engine has 99,700 miles on it. It's the 2AZ-FE Toyota motor (in a Scion tC) and I got it at 86,000 miles I am the second owner of the vehicle but I have no idea how well the previous owner took care of the car. When I got it I immediately changed the oil to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20 with a Fram Ultra filter and PUP+Fram Ultra is the combo I've been using ever since the only difference is I went up to 10W-30 to reduce some oil consumption. After the discussion on this thread I have realized that I chose well and will be sticking with what I'm already using. I understand that oil flushes are great to clean out sludge but I highly doubt the engine is sludged up as my drains are coming out relatively clean. Also performance wise the engine runs great. I doubt it needs a flush but I just wanted to get opinions on it.
If the OP is eyballing Amsoil, they make 0W-20 and 5W-20.
Originally Posted By: Luisraul924
Good to know, then I have made my decision. Mobil1 High Mileage it is. My next (and hopefully last) question would be; should I start off with 5W-20 since that is recommended by Toyota, then move up to 5W-30 if consumption is still higher than I'd like it? My thing is, my tolerance for an engine using oil is zero. It shouldn't use any in my opinion. I used to drive an old 92 Honda Integra with 175,000 miles on that little B18 and it didn't burn a drop of the 5W-30 Royal Purple I would put in it. I don't mind adding 1/2 a qt within the 4500 miles OCI, but that is my upper limit.
Stick to the recommended 20 grade oil as your engine does not require anything heavier. If you want to upgrade to a synthetic oil then go with a 0W-20 to get the maximum benefit.
Also if your engine is not leaking oil then there is zero benefit in running a so called High Mileage oil.
Good to know, then I have made my decision. Mobil1 High Mileage it is. My next (and hopefully last) question would be; should I start off with 5W-20 since that is recommended by Toyota, then move up to 5W-30 if consumption is still higher than I'd like it? My thing is, my tolerance for an engine using oil is zero. It shouldn't use any in my opinion. I used to drive an old 92 Honda Integra with 175,000 miles on that little B18 and it didn't burn a drop of the 5W-30 Royal Purple I would put in it. I don't mind adding 1/2 a qt within the 4500 miles OCI, but that is my upper limit.
Stick to the recommended 20 grade oil as your engine does not require anything heavier. If you want to upgrade to a synthetic oil then go with a 0W-20 to get the maximum benefit.
Also if your engine is not leaking oil then there is zero benefit in running a so called High Mileage oil.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Stick to the recommended 20 grade oil as your engine does not require anything heavier. If you want to upgrade to a synthetic oil then go with a 0W-20 to get the maximum benefit.
Also if your engine is not leaking oil then there is zero benefit in running a so called High Mileage oil.
I've been running nothing but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum + Fram Ultra filter since I've owned the vehicle. At first I had purchased the 5W-20 but it burned off a bit too quickly so I upped it to 10W-30 and the consumption slowed quite a bit. Now I've heard that an engine takes a couple of OCIs to get used to a new brand of oil, does that hold true for the weight of the oil as well? or is that just for that oil's formulation? Reason I'm curious about that is because I'm planning on switching back to 5W-20 since I've already had three OCIs with PUP I figure my engine is used to it by now I just would rather stay at 10W-30 with less consumption than move down to 5W-20 and start burning oil again.
Edit: my 2AZ would probably sip through that 0W-20 like iced tea on a hot summer day in Texas.
Stick to the recommended 20 grade oil as your engine does not require anything heavier. If you want to upgrade to a synthetic oil then go with a 0W-20 to get the maximum benefit.
Also if your engine is not leaking oil then there is zero benefit in running a so called High Mileage oil.
I've been running nothing but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum + Fram Ultra filter since I've owned the vehicle. At first I had purchased the 5W-20 but it burned off a bit too quickly so I upped it to 10W-30 and the consumption slowed quite a bit. Now I've heard that an engine takes a couple of OCIs to get used to a new brand of oil, does that hold true for the weight of the oil as well? or is that just for that oil's formulation? Reason I'm curious about that is because I'm planning on switching back to 5W-20 since I've already had three OCIs with PUP I figure my engine is used to it by now I just would rather stay at 10W-30 with less consumption than move down to 5W-20 and start burning oil again.
Edit: my 2AZ would probably sip through that 0W-20 like iced tea on a hot summer day in Texas.
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
OP, I don't think that you will be required to start at -40C in Texas, so the better shear stability and lower polymer treat rate, (and better deposit control - 0W20 have a more lenient spec than the other grades).
So... You're suggesting I stay with 10W-30?
OP, I don't think that you will be required to start at -40C in Texas, so the better shear stability and lower polymer treat rate, (and better deposit control - 0W20 have a more lenient spec than the other grades).
So... You're suggesting I stay with 10W-30?
Yeah I've decided to stick with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10W-30 and a Toyota TRD oil filter for the rest of this cars life. I will be boosting it so even if I did move down to 5W-20 I would've just moved back up to 10W-30 once I turboed anyway. I figure I have about two more OCIs before I order my turbo kit and install it so in reality no true reason to move back down, the climate here in Texas allows me to run 10W-30 year round. With my car being high mileage plus the turbo plus the added inherent protection of a slightly thicker oil? Yes please!
(well... I mean I will be building the motor so I don't know what "high mileage" will count for at that point hehe)
(well... I mean I will be building the motor so I don't know what "high mileage" will count for at that point hehe)
I'm bringing this one back rather than starting a new thread since it involves my tC and the oil I will be purchasing soon. I really, really enjoy Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Looking at the specs have me firmly believing that this is the best oil out there (I know this is only my opinion). I don't know if I should move back down to 5W-20 and just deal with the consumption or stick with the 10W-30... Apart from cold cranking ease and negligible mileage improvement, what would the 5W-20 offer that the 10W-30 can't give me?
Originally Posted By: Luisraul924
Hello BITOG community looking for an oil recommendation! Now, before I
get into the details I will say that I am currently heavily eyeballing
Amsoil 10W-30 at the moment. I do prefer synthetic, So without further ado:
I drive a 2009 Scion tC I drive civilized about 70% of the time and the
remaining 30% I would say is spirited driving (no racing or breaking speed
limits though... rarely anyway). I live in west Texas so it's hot and dry
99% of the time. My daily drive consists of 8 miles to school at 7 a.m. then
8 miles on the way home at noon mixed city/highway. Then in the afternoon I
go to work, which is delivering pizza. lots of short trips between 3-8 miles.
occasionally I'll leave my car on between deliveries if the business is booming.
the drive to work is mostly highway, about 15 miles to then 15 miles home.
That's pretty much about 3 days out of the week. Weekends don't see the school
trip and two weekdays don't see the work trips. It's currently at 99.5k miles.
The owners manual states to use any API certified oil of 0W-20 or 5W-20 weights
to be changed at 4500mi/3mo. whichever comes first. The engine is a 2AZ-FE which
has the controversial oil consumption issue, luckily for me, the only time my
engine likes to burn oil is when I'm in the high RPMs with VVTi going. So,
typically if I don't ever go past 4500 RPMs the engine typically doesn't burn
any oil. I do like driving it though so I would like to burn less oil when I do
drive enthusiastically. I'm currently adding anywhere between 1/2 qt to 1 qt at
around mile 2000 (halfway through the cycle basically) based on how spirited
I've been driving that cycle. I'm sure I wouldn't have to add anything if I
drove like a grandma but... That's just not me.
I checked out some of the Scion forums and what a good amount of experienced
people there said was to get pick a good synthetic with low volatility, I'm
currently running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10w-30 and I love it but I heard it's
got a relatively high volatility rating. I'd like to bring that down to see if
it helps my high revving consumption issues. Sorry for the dissertation guys if
you're still reading bless your heart for helping a guy out.
Hello Luisraul924 - We don’t think you’ll have any volatility issues with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. In fact, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum motor oils are made using our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which actually converts natural gas to a high quality full synthetic base stock that’s crystal clear. Of course, any great motor oil has to have a great base oil AND great additives. With that in mind, we add our unique Active Cleansing Agents to the pure base oil to create a motor oil designed for complete protection. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum technology is also the factory fill in BMWs, Ferraris, Maseratis, Vipers, Challenger SRT Hellcats and the fastest automobile in the world, the Hennessey Venom! We think you’ll be OK using that same technology in your vehicle(s). Hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
Hello BITOG community looking for an oil recommendation! Now, before I
get into the details I will say that I am currently heavily eyeballing
Amsoil 10W-30 at the moment. I do prefer synthetic, So without further ado:
I drive a 2009 Scion tC I drive civilized about 70% of the time and the
remaining 30% I would say is spirited driving (no racing or breaking speed
limits though... rarely anyway). I live in west Texas so it's hot and dry
99% of the time. My daily drive consists of 8 miles to school at 7 a.m. then
8 miles on the way home at noon mixed city/highway. Then in the afternoon I
go to work, which is delivering pizza. lots of short trips between 3-8 miles.
occasionally I'll leave my car on between deliveries if the business is booming.
the drive to work is mostly highway, about 15 miles to then 15 miles home.
That's pretty much about 3 days out of the week. Weekends don't see the school
trip and two weekdays don't see the work trips. It's currently at 99.5k miles.
The owners manual states to use any API certified oil of 0W-20 or 5W-20 weights
to be changed at 4500mi/3mo. whichever comes first. The engine is a 2AZ-FE which
has the controversial oil consumption issue, luckily for me, the only time my
engine likes to burn oil is when I'm in the high RPMs with VVTi going. So,
typically if I don't ever go past 4500 RPMs the engine typically doesn't burn
any oil. I do like driving it though so I would like to burn less oil when I do
drive enthusiastically. I'm currently adding anywhere between 1/2 qt to 1 qt at
around mile 2000 (halfway through the cycle basically) based on how spirited
I've been driving that cycle. I'm sure I wouldn't have to add anything if I
drove like a grandma but... That's just not me.
I checked out some of the Scion forums and what a good amount of experienced
people there said was to get pick a good synthetic with low volatility, I'm
currently running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10w-30 and I love it but I heard it's
got a relatively high volatility rating. I'd like to bring that down to see if
it helps my high revving consumption issues. Sorry for the dissertation guys if
you're still reading bless your heart for helping a guy out.
Hello Luisraul924 - We don’t think you’ll have any volatility issues with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. In fact, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum motor oils are made using our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which actually converts natural gas to a high quality full synthetic base stock that’s crystal clear. Of course, any great motor oil has to have a great base oil AND great additives. With that in mind, we add our unique Active Cleansing Agents to the pure base oil to create a motor oil designed for complete protection. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum technology is also the factory fill in BMWs, Ferraris, Maseratis, Vipers, Challenger SRT Hellcats and the fastest automobile in the world, the Hennessey Venom! We think you’ll be OK using that same technology in your vehicle(s). Hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
Originally Posted By: GenaFishbeck
Hello Luisraul924 - We don’t think you’ll have any volatility issues with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. In fact, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum motor oils are made using our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which actually converts natural gas to a high quality full synthetic base stock that’s crystal clear. Of course, any great motor oil has to have a great base oil AND great additives. With that in mind, we add our unique Active Cleansing Agents to the pure base oil to create a motor oil designed for complete protection. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum technology is also the factory fill in BMWs, Ferraris, Maseratis, Vipers, Challenger SRT Hellcats and the fastest automobile in the world, the Hennessey Venom! We think you’ll be OK using that same technology in your vehicle(s). Hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
Well thank you Pennzoil team! Looks like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is...
Hello Luisraul924 - We don’t think you’ll have any volatility issues with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. In fact, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum motor oils are made using our patented, revolutionary gas-to-liquid process which actually converts natural gas to a high quality full synthetic base stock that’s crystal clear. Of course, any great motor oil has to have a great base oil AND great additives. With that in mind, we add our unique Active Cleansing Agents to the pure base oil to create a motor oil designed for complete protection. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum technology is also the factory fill in BMWs, Ferraris, Maseratis, Vipers, Challenger SRT Hellcats and the fastest automobile in the world, the Hennessey Venom! We think you’ll be OK using that same technology in your vehicle(s). Hope this info helps! – The Pennzoil Team
Well thank you Pennzoil team! Looks like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is...
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