Oil reco needed for Ford pushrod V8

Pennzoil motor oil
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Mesozoic

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May 16, 2015
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Tucson, AZ, USA
'89 Ford Mustang with extremely modified 5.0L fully rollerized engine, supercharged with Kenne Bell 2.2L "Blowzilla" unit. Water injection via dual nozzles prior to the supercharger inlet. Engine was started and broken in using Shell Rotella 15W40 conventional, supercharger uses its own reservoir with Redline 50WT (15W50 synthetic). I live in southern Arizona and the ambient temps are above 105*F lately, a bit unsure of what viscosity to run in the engine since its due for a change after being driven 200 miles or so. The engine has been setup with newer Napier style piston rings and supercharging in mind, so ring end clearance adjusted accordingly. I've been considering just using Rotella 15W40 for the 1st 5000 miles or so, but interested in some recommendations.

 
20w-50 Valvoline V1 or Mobil 1 15w50. I'll bet the car has some get up and go!
 
Both of those would be good. I would lean toward the VR-1.

If the temps moderate some, or you will be doing seasonal changes (?), I'd consider Chevron Delo SD (Severe Duty) 15w30 for a winter oil.

But in all practicality, you can just run a premium SAE 40 like Delo 100 in 40. The upper cylinder wear area may be better protected and there is zero shear to worry about
smile.gif


You are not cold enough to really need a multi-grade, so why give up any lubricity to VII's in the oil ...

Or, if the budget allows, just start talking to Redline about some of their straight weight racing oils. They have dual viscosity ratings as multi's because they are mostly synthetic and it just works out that way.

Whatever you choose, I'd be running used oil analysis and be looking for bearing metal (lead,tin,copper) as the blower can hammer lower end bearings if you get into it at lower RPM's ...
 
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Its hard to make a positive recommendation without knowing how the engine was built- bearing clearances, oil pump output, etc. The question I ask myself is "what kind of oil pressure do I see at hot idle?" If its over in the 20-30 range (remember, hot IDLE is the best indicator of how much oil supply "margin" an engine is built with) I'd probably go with a good, solid high-performance 40, like VR-1 10w40, Redline, RP XPR series, etc. rather than push to a 50-wt. If the hot idle pressure is below 20, then I'd look at 50s.
 
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Conventional 15W40 for the first 5K to 10K miles, then Mobil 1 0W40 after that. I still prefer to break in engines on conventional. Just my preference.

If you are really beating on it and oil temps get up there, then synthetic 5W50.
 
The usage of the vehicle is mainly street and highway, I don't intend to take it to the track or anything, although the power output is so ridiculously high that it would make a worthy track vehicle. While I don't rag on the engine, the supercharger generates a tremendous amount of heat and power can be violent when applied roughly.

Oil pressure (hot) at idle appears to be 25-30 psi and above 2000 RPM it gets up to 65 or so. The oil control is quite good, using a Moroso pan with trap door baffling and a windage tray. No oil cooler installed, however.
 
Mobil 1 High 10w40 has lots of extra goodies in it if your hot oil pressure can be sustained on a 40 grade.

Nothing wrong with Rotella 15w40 if you like it
 
Nothing you can buy in walmart except maybe 5w40. I ALWAYS found 15w40 CI - anybody's brand - to be a big power killer and a poor runner in gasoline engine. Includes my 450HP 402BB.

Maybe try a nice Motorcycle 4T. esp for break in. They have decent ZDP usually little MoDTC. No need for a 50 in a WC motor on the street even with boost unless you REALLY want to be wasting hard bought throttle response and power. Just keep an eye on oil temps if they are running over 250 a bunch go to the 50.
1) On your static comp, Is this a 9to1 or a dished 7to1?

2) Whats the rod big clear? above double oh 3?

3) Pistons hyper or forged AL, are set to manuf clearances?

4) is the motor zero decked.
 
Originally Posted By: Mesozoic
The usage of the vehicle is mainly street and highway, I don't intend to take it to the track or anything, although the power output is so ridiculously high that it would make a worthy track vehicle. While I don't rag on the engine, the supercharger generates a tremendous amount of heat and power can be violent when applied roughly.

Oil pressure (hot) at idle appears to be 25-30 psi and above 2000 RPM it gets up to 65 or so. The oil control is quite good, using a Moroso pan with trap door baffling and a windage tray. No oil cooler installed, however.


Does the supercharger have a bypass valve?
 
What are the details on the combo? I've got friends with supercharged 5.0L engines, most of them just run 15w-50 or 5w-50. What kind of power output?

Is this a Dart block or FMS? Who built the engine?
 
There's a lot of details on the combination, can't even recall everything without consulting the datasheet from the machine shop. The base is a Dart Iron Eagle 8.2" block, SRP 0.030" forged pistons, Crower billet steel rods, Cola forged crank, ported Edelbrock Victor Jr heads (2.08/1.60 valves), Gaterman roller lifters, Comp 1.7 ratio steel roller rockers, Crane 2031 roller cam, ported GT40 lower intake, the Blowzilla with Flowzilla manifolds, Accufab 90mm throttle body... I had it professionally assembled by Larry's Engine & Marine; he's done very good work for me in the past. With water/meth injection, I would estimate over 700 hp around 13-15 psi of boost.

I did all the computer tuning and harnessing work myself, as I've updated the engine so that it uses Ford's EDIS8 ignition (no distributor), along with computerized e-fan control, Siemens Seka 80 lb/hr fuel injectors, and water/meth injection control (AEM).

Someone asked about a bypass valve, yes, there is an integral bypass valve to help cool the air charge when not using the boost. The compression ratio of the engine is 8.5:1. Not sure of the rod bearing clearances or deck clearance, although they are written down on a datasheet filed away. Pistons and rings were all manually and individually fitted, file fitted.

Sounds like most people are onboard with the Rotella 15W40 conventional for break-in usage. I'll figure out what my bearing and piston clearances are set to and report them.
 
Originally Posted By: Mesozoic
There's a lot of details on the combination, can't even recall everything without consulting the datasheet from the machine shop. The base is a Dart Iron Eagle 8.2" block, SRP 0.030" forged pistons, Crower billet steel rods, Cola forged crank, ported Edelbrock Victor Jr heads (2.08/1.60 valves), Gaterman roller lifters, Comp 1.7 ratio steel roller rockers, Crane 2031 roller cam, ported GT40 lower intake, the Blowzilla with Flowzilla manifolds, Accufab 90mm throttle body... I had it professionally assembled by Larry's Engine & Marine; he's done very good work for me in the past. With water/meth injection, I would estimate over 700 hp around 13-15 psi of boost.

I did all the computer tuning and harnessing work myself, as I've updated the engine so that it uses Ford's EDIS8 ignition (no distributor), along with computerized e-fan control, Siemens Seka 80 lb/hr fuel injectors, and water/meth injection control (AEM).

Someone asked about a bypass valve, yes, there is an integral bypass valve to help cool the air charge when not using the boost. The compression ratio of the engine is 8.5:1. Not sure of the rod bearing clearances or deck clearance, although they are written down on a datasheet filed away. Pistons and rings were all manually and individually fitted, file fitted.

Sounds like most people are onboard with the Rotella 15W40 conventional for break-in usage. I'll figure out what my bearing and piston clearances are set to and report them.


The 302 in my garage had a 2031 in it
wink.gif


You should put it on the dyno, see what it makes IMHO.
 
Rod bearing clearance: 0.0024"
Side clearance: 0.022 - 0.030"
Main bearing clearance: 0.0025"

Piston/wall clearance: 0.0035"
Top ring gap: 0.022"
2nd ring gap: 0.022"

Deck height: -0.009"

The engine builder used Rotella 15W40 for its first fill and break-in oil. Since I have some on my shelf, I think I will continue to use this oil for about 5000 miles. Since the engine is full roller, do I really need to be concerned about using an oil with higher levels of ZDDP?

Don't care about the power output of the engine, it's a strong street/highway car and that's all it's for. For blown motors you definitely want less overlap, even a stock HO cam will do nicely. Just cut some brackets on the waterjet to make a Sanden compressor work with the blower snout bracket and should have updated A/C in there by the end of this week. Looking forward to that as it was 112*F today!
 
Well Zddp has effects on other places such as wrist pins and any place in the engine where there is high friction and temperature, but i don't think you really have to worry about it, sice Tucson is basically a furnace i would run Mobil 1 15w50 as most people have said
 
haven't you watched one of the latest fast and furious movies where they are shown pouring castrol synthetic 10w40 in their engines?
smile.gif



anyways, I'd run a HDEO myself either 15w40 or 5w40
 
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