oil is oil is oil...all the same

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Bill

You'll never see a 15K UOA posted from me as I will be going with a 12K OCI. I know the EP is guaranteed for 15K, but like you said, these blender motors can be hard on oil and I figure the 3K early change gives me a bit of a cushion. I'm just looking to double my OCI's (from 6K with Havoline dino). From what I've read the EP should easily be able to do 12K. BTW, I'm still using PureOne filters.
 
All oils are definitely NOT equivalent if you drive a car powered by a VW/Audi 1.8T. It is a great engine if properly lubricated, but a "by-the-book" 5k mi / 8k km OCI with dino and city or suburban driving is a recipe for coke ("sludge") -- read the sad tales of woe on PassatWorld.com or VWVortex.com.
 
quote:

Originally posted by John_E:
All oils are definitely NOT equivalent if you drive a car powered by a VW/Audi 1.8T. It is a great engine if properly lubricated, but a "by-the-book" 5k mi / 8k km OCI with dino and city or suburban driving is a recipe for coke ("sludge") -- read the sad tales of woe on PassatWorld.com or VWVortex.com.

And you'll see 99% of people who recommend conventional oils state (like my posts above
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) IF YOUR MANUAL STATES TO USE SYN, USE IT.

OR IF YOU HAVE A TURBO (force fed).

quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:
Bill

You'll never see a 15K UOA posted from me as I will be going with a 12K OCI. I know the EP is guaranteed for 15K, but like you said, these blender motors can be hard on oil and I figure the 3K early change gives me a bit of a cushion. I'm just looking to double my OCI's (from 6K with Havoline dino). From what I've read the EP should easily be able to do 12K. BTW, I'm still using PureOne filters.


Are you going to run a UOA at 12k?

See if the $5 quart oil is able to do the job safely?

Are you going to change the filter at any time before the 12k OCI?

Just wondering..
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Take care, Bill
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And the debate continues. All i know is since using good synthetics since 10K the valve train still looks good from looking under the oil cap in my Tacoma 3.4L. Ive been using Redline for most of the miles and now Amsoil Series 3000 and once winter hits ill be usine Amsoil Series 2000 for now on. I almost cant wait to get alittle valve cover leak to get the real scoop on how clean she really is. So my vote is with synthetics.
 
Oil is not so expensive that I would deliberately go out and try to find the cheapest stuff there is. Heck, I think you can still find SA or SB rated oil for something like 50-70 cents a quart. But I am not going to put something like that in an engine costing thousands of dollars to replace. Go to a Wal-Mart. You can find conventional oil of decent quality for about ten bucks for a 5 qt. container. That is not too much money to spend to protect your engine. No way oil is oil. There is a big difference between a SM rated oil and a SB rated oil. Save the SB rated oil for your lawnmower. Heck, I would not use SB rated oil in the lawnmower.

I have never been able to understand how somebody can buy a car for thousands of dollars and then drive it without changing the oil until the oil is cooked and the engine is destroyed. Ten bucks worth of oil and an oil filter every 3000-5000 miles would have saved many an engine.
 
Bill

Nope and nope. I've seen enough data on the EP to convince me it'll easily go 12K on one filter and do a dam good job of it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:

quote:

Originally posted by Baveux:
Oil is oil for 3000 miles or 5000 km interval.

Thats my opinion and I'm sticking to it
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I don't know of any oil these days that won't do 3K.


This is why I say oil is oil , ...in that type of service
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Extended drain interval is a different ball game, but at the end the high quality of oil used for this type of service will be so close to each other that it is pretty safe to say oil is oil there too.

How many members here ?? 3/4000 thousands ???

Millions and millions of peoples not members using cheap oil and fram are satisfied with their vehicule ....thats the main bottom line.

But like you I love this board, however we have to remain objective and we should keep all in perspective
 
quote:

Originally posted by carock:
Hey guys, it just ain't true that all engines run 200K miles without lubrication problems running 3000 OCI's. I serviced LOTS of engines that had seal failures, turbo bearing failures, timing chain failures, hydraulic lifter failures,valve failures, and emissions failures due to lubrcication issues."

"My opinion is only based on observation, but a synthetic oil will probably save you a major $1000 repair over a 200K life span. Most people do NOT get 200K without some trouble... People who only think the cost of oil is the only consideration are missing the point.


I have several instances of over 200k runs on conventional oils with no issues, so I can't agree. My best was a Merc Villager.. 210k on Rotella 10-30, and whatever filter was on sale, including a long run of a dozen or so Lee filters for .75 from Target, back when Target had filters. Fresh oil,and even average filters can and will get an engine to 200k and beyond, if the choices are made carefully. I'm guessing the Merc did well because it was easy on oil, and the Rotella is pretty robust. May have something to do with the relationship between dirt particle size and oil film thickness, but I didn't know about UOA's and particle counts back then. I do know that synthetics will save your hide in extreme conditions of overheating, loss of oil flow, and/or stupid stuff like the drain plug coming out, and a total oil loss. Don't ask.
 
Thermactor
Member
Member # 9355

posted 22 August, 2006 11:29
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Oil is oil unless it is Pennzoil.
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Posts: 114 | From: San Marcos, CA | Registered: Oct 2005 | IP: Logged |


What?
 
Of course I will join this insanity.

Do as you please is the bottom line. Most of the time, oil is a piece of mind,and that piece of mind can be supported by an UOA further.

I have a GTI 1.8T and when I first got it, I was changing the oil every 3K with whatever the dealer put in. It was dino, which at that time was ok I guess, since the dealerships were not plagued by the sludge problems then.

I put on about 25K miles from new on dino oil and had no issues. At about 25K I switched to synthetic and never looked back, nor would I.

The cold mornings sputters were gone once I started using M1 0w-40 and GC 0w-30, so I am sold on that. For a time my MPG went up with GC, but now it is back to normal, or as was with M1.

I still have a problem buying oils online, since GC (even M1) has been so good to me, and I dont see the need to spend close or over $10 a quart when buying online.

I would want to try a dino oil for an UOA, but am afraid. hahaha
 
I am the be-all and end-all self-proclaimed know-it-all about motor oil...the cheaper the better!

Your leader has spoken and my word is law...

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
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Since we're dropping bottom lines here, the bottom line is this: if you change your oil every 3K, then oil is oil. If you're looking for extended intervals, then oils are vastly different and you need to do some homework.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bottgers:
Since we're dropping bottom lines here, the bottom line is this: if you change your oil every 3K, then oil is oil. If you're looking for extended intervals, then oils are vastly different and you need to do some homework.

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Well he does make a good point. I am guessing that many drivers living in metrpolitan areas have no more than 20 mile commute to work.

20 x 2/day x 20 work days/month x 4 months = 3.2K mile OCI

Of course, there may be few trips, but then during vacation and holidays you don't commute to work, so it doesn't change the result above much. Also, some people may be using public transport sometimes (again metro areas).

Thus 3 OCIs using "any" dino would suffice. In fact, by this calculation the vehicle only travels 10K miles per year! Longer OCI simply doesn't apply due to the 6 month time limit, 1 year at most on synth.

Indeed this vehicle would only travel 200K miles after 20 years and would clearly have many other problems well before engine failure.

This is sort of my "problem"
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as I have a 10 year old Civic with only 80K miles. I just don't drive than much as my commute ranged from zero (public transport) to 33 miles, no more. Even on my bike's 2K OCI I only had a single oil change this summer.

So he may have a valid point. Many/most drivers don't drive enough for extended OCIs and exceed time limit before 5+K distance limit, so for them any oil will work fine (or any decent dino for 5K OCI).

Of course, I realize there are many other scenarios, people with active lives and/or children and/or pets ... Even then, in a typical family with 2 kids you'll have at least 2 cars and only one of them will see over 10K per year (van or suv, the "family" vehicle) while the other one(s) will be simple commute vechiles, 10K/year.

For myself I still try to find a "decent" dino even for my modest 3-5K OCIs. In my case there is no point in using anything but cheap dino for the Civic that will fall apart well before the engine.
 
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