Oil from the past...available in the present!!!

[addyguy]

A lot of people on here are pretty nostalgic for the past when it comes to oil. They fondly remember when the big names in oil -QS, Pennzoil, Kendall were made from 100% Pennsylvania crude, and when they used use the 'good old grades of oil' - 10W-40 or straight 30.

Most on here readily aknowledge that the oils of today, even if they are the same names, have nothing to do with the oils of the past - the names have been bought and sold, and are just a brand for another company, AND the actual oils in the bottle are a mix of different bases from different sources, and are nothing like 'the good old stuff'.

BUT, if you want to go back to the past for your oil choice, it can be done. Americas Refining Group, as many know, make their oils out of 100% Pennsylvania crude. Their main brand, Brad Penn oils, isn't a name that was around in the 1950's, 60's or 70's, but ARG's other brand is GULF.

Gulf oil was a stand-alone company back then, but with ARG buying rights to the name, the company has come full-circle - it is once again an old name in oil, producing engine oils out of 100% Penn crude, like it would have advertised in the 1950's, 60's and 70's.

What's more, Gulf makes a 'value oil' that is an SE/SF-rated, group I, 10w30 oil....probably pretty darn close to what some of you may have run in your Torino/Chevelle/LTD/Charger...etc..
Have a look:

http://www.gov.pe.ca/royalgazette/index.php3

It is often asked on here "I wonder what a modern car would look like inside if it were run on nothing but SF-rated oil at 5k intervals..." Well, now you can find out!

 

[webfors]

Might be ok for a lawnmower, but I doubt anyone would put it in their modern car. Be interesting to see the results if someone had an engine/car to spare

What's the direct link to the article? Or the volume and/or date?

 

[addyguy]

OOOOPPPS.....got my links mixed up!

SHOULD be this: http://www.gulflubricants.net/pb/Security_Value_EOs_&_ATF_PB.pdf

 

[FrankN4]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Might be ok for a lawnmower, but I doubt anyone would put it in their modern car. Be interesting to see the results if someone had an engine/car to spare

I certainly would not want to use it in a modern engine with current daily use. I can't even get myself to use gpII+, or even a blend. I use only synthetic, even in my lawnmowers and tractors.

I can remember when it was fairly common for anyone that kept an automobile for any length of time to have the engine "overhauled" and this was needed at around 70,000-75,000 miles. There were maintenance fanatics even back in the 50's, 60's that would get that magic 100,000+, but they were few.

Today people go to "Jiffy Lube types" Earl's Tire, AC, and Lube, get the oil and filter changed when they think about it or get around to it, and trade with 120,000-140,000 miles. Fanatics, like me, assume 200,000+, and sometimes over 300,000. I don't think the best gpI in the world will do that.

I can remember my Dad saying to always use a 190 deg thermostat. anything less would cause the oil to "wax" and anything more would cause the oil to thicken like molasses. The thermostat in my 2008 Silverado is set for 210 and there is a computer looking at it, and using that information for spark advance, mixture control, and I don't know what else. If I change the thermostat to a different value, the computer will go crazy

trying to compensate. Could lean the mixture to the point of piston burn.

The beauty of the good old days(which never were as good as they used to be) is that you survived, you can look back on them. Things were more simple or less complex. 30 cent a quart Gulf-pride and 20 cent a gallon "high test" would take you to 75,000 miles, and that was great.

 

[Johnny]

Very well stated FrankN4.

 

[Steve S]

One of my dearest friends mom had a Buick 225 made it to 250 miles before we pulled the heads for valve job and sold the car with 325ish miles . I owned a 70 Dodge challenger with the 290 Hp rated engine aluminum intake headers stickshift and it ran good at 90,000 miles when I sold it.Rather than the rating look at the base stocks the oil is made with the older rated oils may have had killer add levels.

 

[steve20]

Frank
Your Tstat is a 195

Steve

 

[Autobahn88]

Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Originally Posted By: webfors
Might be ok for a lawnmower, but I doubt anyone would put it in their modern car. Be interesting to see the results if someone had an engine/car to spare

I certainly would not want to use it in a modern engine with current daily use. I can't even get myself to use gpII+, or even a blend. I use only synthetic, even in my lawnmowers and tractors.

I can remember when it was fairly common for anyone that kept an automobile for any length of time to have the engine "overhauled" and this was needed at around 70,000-75,000 miles. There were maintenance fanatics even back in the 50's, 60's that would get that magic 100,000+, but they were few.

Today people go to "Jiffy Lube types" Earl's Tire, AC, and Lube, get the oil and filter changed when they think about it or get around to it, and trade with 120,000-140,000 miles. Fanatics, like me, assume 200,000+, and sometimes over 300,000. I don't think the best gpI in the world will do that.

I can remember my Dad saying to always use a 190 deg thermostat. anything less would cause the oil to "wax" and anything more would cause the oil to thicken like molasses. The thermostat in my 2008 Silverado is set for 210 and there is a computer looking at it, and using that information for spark advance, mixture control, and I don't know what else. If I change the thermostat to a different value, the computer will go crazy

trying to compensate. Could lean the mixture to the point of piston burn.

The beauty of the good old days(which never were as good as they used to be) is that you survived, you can look back on them. Things were more simple or less complex. 30 cent a quart Gulf-pride and 20 cent a gallon "high test" would take you to 75,000 miles, and that was great.


I couldn't of said it better myself. I always get into arguements with my father-in law about the good old days. He always says " they don't make cars like they used to". And I would always reply "Thank god for that"....

 

[FrankN4]

Originally Posted By: steve20
Frank
Your Tstat is a 195

Steve


The really bad part is that anything else the service manager told me was heard with great suspicion.

The one and only thing I took his word for without question was about the thermostat. And even worse, I wanted to put in a 190-195 Tstat and he said it would drive the computer crazy.

I should have been suspicious as my temperature gauge hangs around 210 all the time.

 

[wgtoys]

"The really bad part is that anything else the service manager told me was heard with great suspicion."

These guys often don't really know what they are talking about. For example: Several GM service professionals said it was very difficult to add cruise control to a Chevy Silverado which didn't come with cruise from the factory. They were completely wrong. Buy the turn signal stalk with the cruise control switches in place to replace the original stalk. Plug it in. Cruise control works flawlessly, including the integrated instrument panel indicator light.

 

[ted s]

i use the Brad Penn racing oil in my 70 challenger

 

[Steve S]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
One of my dearest friends mom had a Buick 225 made it to 250 miles before we pulled the heads for valve job and sold the car with 325ish miles . I owned a 70 Dodge challenger with the 290 Hp rated engine aluminum intake headers stickshift and it ran good at 90,000 miles when I sold it.Rather than the rating look at the base stocks the oil is made with the older rated oils may have had killer add levels.
250 thousand miles

 

[GMBoy]

Could someone explain the significance of 100% Pennsylvania crude? Other than being local instead of overseas, why is it or was it better? I thought the additive package made the oil.

 

[dbvettez061]

Originally Posted By: Autobahn88
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Originally Posted By: webfors
Might be ok for a lawnmower, but I doubt anyone would put it in their modern car. Be interesting to see the results if someone had an engine/car to spare

I certainly would not want to use it in a modern engine with current daily use. I can't even get myself to use gpII+, or even a blend. I use only synthetic, even in my lawnmowers and tractors.

I can remember when it was fairly common for anyone that kept an automobile for any length of time to have the engine "overhauled" and this was needed at around 70,000-75,000 miles. There were maintenance fanatics even back in the 50's, 60's that would get that magic 100,000+, but they were few.

Today people go to "Jiffy Lube types" Earl's Tire, AC, and Lube, get the oil and filter changed when they think about it or get around to it, and trade with 120,000-140,000 miles. Fanatics, like me, assume 200,000+, and sometimes over 300,000. I don't think the best gpI in the world will do that.

I can remember my Dad saying to always use a 190 deg thermostat. anything less would cause the oil to "wax" and anything more would cause the oil to thicken like molasses. The thermostat in my 2008 Silverado is set for 210 and there is a computer looking at it, and using that information for spark advance, mixture control, and I don't know what else. If I change the thermostat to a different value, the computer will go crazy

trying to compensate. Could lean the mixture to the point of piston burn.

The beauty of the good old days(which never were as good as they used to be) is that you survived, you can look back on them. Things were more simple or less complex. 30 cent a quart Gulf-pride and 20 cent a gallon "high test" would take you to 75,000 miles, and that was great.


I couldn't of said it better myself. I always get into arguements with my father-in law about the good old days. He always says " they don't make cars like they used to". And I would always reply "Thank god for that"....


Don't make them like they used to...........
Yes they where more exciting, had more character, changed every year when i was a kid,always excited to see the new models... but even in a minor accident could be 'death mobiles'....But, still miss them....

 

[Ausfahrt]

Quote:
Could someone explain the significance of 100% Pennsylvania crude? Other than being local instead of overseas, why is it or was it better? I thought the additive package made the oil.


I believe that conventional wisdom of the day (good old days) had it that Pennsylvania oil had less parrafin and therefore would not leave a waxy buildup in your engine.

I have no idea of the validity of this statement, I just remember hearing it.

 

[Colt45ws]

At the time they couldnt refine oil to the extent we can now, so they had to start with a good crude. Pennsylvania happens to have good crude. Now they can refine any crude to much better standards.

 

[nooil]

Ah, the good ole days. I remember Havoline as my first oil and then there were recap tires that were always falling apart, leaky radiators, heaters that wouldn't work, vehicle rattles, motors smoking, loud exhaust, boy what I would give to go back to those days - NOT!

 

[Drew2000]

The "normal" full line of Gulf-branded oils from American Refining are probably as good as any other conventional, or semi syn oil. They meet all the modern specs and I wouldn't have a problem using them if the price was attractive.

http://www.gulflubricants.net/products/engineoils.html

The cheapo "Security" line of SA oils probably gets used in leaky tractor and truck transmissions. They do have a pretty straight-forward disclaimer about using in modern engines.

 

[1999nick]

Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Originally Posted By: webfors
Might be ok for a lawnmower, but I doubt anyone would put it in their modern car. Be interesting to see the results if someone had an engine/car to spare

I certainly would not want to use it in a modern engine with current daily use. I can't even get myself to use gpII+, or even a blend. I use only synthetic, even in my lawnmowers and tractors.

I can remember when it was fairly common for anyone that kept an automobile for any length of time to have the engine "overhauled" and this was needed at around 70,000-75,000 miles. There were maintenance fanatics even back in the 50's, 60's that would get that magic 100,000+, but they were few.

Today people go to "Jiffy Lube types" Earl's Tire, AC, and Lube, get the oil and filter changed when they think about it or get around to it, and trade with 120,000-140,000 miles. Fanatics, like me, assume 200,000+, and sometimes over 300,000. I don't think the best gpI in the world will do that.

I can remember my Dad saying to always use a 190 deg thermostat. anything less would cause the oil to "wax" and anything more would cause the oil to thicken like molasses. The thermostat in my 2008 Silverado is set for 210 and there is a computer looking at it, and using that information for spark advance, mixture control, and I don't know what else. If I change the thermostat to a different value, the computer will go crazy

trying to compensate. Could lean the mixture to the point of piston burn.

The beauty of the good old days(which never were as good as they used to be) is that you survived, you can look back on them. Things were more simple or less complex. 30 cent a quart Gulf-pride and 20 cent a gallon "high test" would take you to 75,000 miles, and that was great.



If you can remember when 75,000 mile overhauls were commonplace, you must be older than me (I'll be 73 this year). I began driving in 1952, and my Dad bought me a 1940 Ford with the infamous V-8-60 engine. It would only do 70 mph, but it gave about 27 mpg. The engine was about worn out when I got it. That was the last wornout engine I ever had.

In 1954 my Dad got me a 1954 Ford V-8 with the overdrive transmission. In 1959, that car had 140,000 miles on it, and had required only 2 major repairs: one new clutch and a new rear end gearset, purchased from a junkyard for $12, counting installation. The engine was treated about as rough as a 17 to 22 year old could, but was still making a weekly 660 mile round trip from my Army post to home with no problem and no smoking or oil use. It was treated every 4-5 thousand miles to the 20W detergent oil of the day. It had mechanical valve lifters that required adjusting when they get loose and noisy, but they never did in 140,000 miles. I have no idea how long that engine lasted as I sold it as soon as I got out of the Army, and bought a 1955 Buick Century that only had 39,000 miles on it. I got a job with a 60 mile one way commute, and kept that car one year, at which time it had 72,000 miles on it. It still ran like new, but I wanted a 1959 Chevy Impala with the 348 cubic inch engine.

Anyway, my recollection of the new overhead valve engines that begin to come out with the Olds and Cadillac V-8's in 1949 and spread to most American cars by 1955, is that they were about as long lived as any modern engine. I certainly never wore one out.

 

[FrankN4]

1999nick

Actually, you are a little older than I am.

I can remember from the mid 1950's through the 1970's when engine overhaul was a big business. I lived with my dad in Virginia in 1958 to 1963. We lived within walking distance of a filing station that had a overhaul bay. He started letting me clean the parts to be reused in a big vibratank. I could not count how many in-line 6 engines by Ford, Chevrolet, and Dodge/Plymouth, the infamous Chevrolet early 265 and 283 V engines, Ford 272, 292, and I believe it was a 332 that was very problematic. You could make a living just from the small in-line 6 engines used in Ford Falcons, Mercury Comets, Chevrolet Chevy II I think it was, and the full size Ford and Chevrolet with I6 engines. Every town, even smaller ones, had at least one filling station that had an overhaul bay.

When I was going to engineering school in 1963, I worked at a machine shop that reamed, honed, re-bored, turned, leveled, and all machine work for several overhaul shops. I was always fascinated by the line bore machine. I am still not sure that works.

I can remember that if someone had 100,000 miles on an engine, I would want to question them on end to learn how they did that, it was that rare.

I can remember the cars of the late 50's, 60's and 70's that seemed to always do better than average on high mileage. Big V8's by Chrysler, Pontiac, and Cadillac were the prime engines. I can remember that I determined my first new car would be one of those. However, my first new car was a 1964 Buck convertible. I traded it for a 1966 AMC Classic and it had well over 100,000 miles on it in just over two years. It lived on a diet of Kendall straight 40 and Gulf gasoline.

My first car was a 1947 Chevrolet. I overhauled it immediately. I had to pay more to get re-babbitt than all the rest of the "kit" combined.

I wanted a 1959 2 door Chevrolet with the big engine and a Fox Craft shifter. Wouldn't you know, my Grandfather bought one but he got an automatic transmission. He never let me drive that car. He traded that for a 1963 Chrysler 300 that had a hemi. I did drive that one, WOW.