1. 2011 GMC Terrain 3.0L V6 LFW build date 8/13/2010, currently has 84K miles.
2. Owners manual says dexos only, but indicates if dexos is unavailable to use oil with "API Starburst symbol and of SAE 5W-30". Owners Manual.
3. Michigan lower peninsula, gets cold (0 degrees F, sometimes negative).
4. Easy and slow mostly, since it's the wife's car; when I take it about once a month and it's warmed up, I drive it harder/faster to increase oil pressure, etc.
5. Short trip to work (less than 10 mins); we do take it on 300-500 mile road trips once or twice a year
6. No known mechanical problems, always had dealer serviced oil changes according to the OLM.
I found some early blackstone analysis on the forum:
Oil Analysis 1
Oil Analysis 2
My concerns are around this being an early DI engine, the mostly short trips and temperature fluctuation/cold winter we have in Michigan. I believe the engine/powertrain warranty has expired (I'm not concerned about dexos) and I've heard good things on this forum about 0w40 from Castrol and M1. But the M1 site recommends 5W-30's.
I already buy Catrol 0w40 (LL-01) from walmart for the BMW, but I only change that oil every 15-16K, so having another oil for these short OCI's isn't a huge deal. I've heard the ZDDP content of the Castrol is good for the BMW, but may not be beneficial for this engine. I'd prefer to go full synthetic, but I'm open to any suggestions (and especially experience of those who have same/similar engine), thanks!
Oil for Equinox/Terrain 3.0L V6 LFW (updated LF1)
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If you don't burn much oil, say less than a quart per 4,000 miles or so, then the ZDDP content in the 0w40 would not be a problem, since its the phosphorus in ZDDP (the 'P' part) that can foul catalytic convertors if it gets into the combustion chamber too much. You could use any 0w40. I'd use Mobil1 AFE 0w30 in that engine, as it has some Mg detergents replacing some Ca detergents which may keep it from LSPI. I had experienced LSPI in a 2011 Chevy 3.6L DI engine, similar to your engine, as its compression ratio and DI, coupled with the engine mapping and transmission shift points, caused some occasional light LSPI.
Use a Fram Ultra XG10575 oil filter from walmart or amazon.com for best filtering.
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I have one as well, 2011 V-6.
Central Wisconsin.
5W-30 works fine. I've tried 0W-30 a time or two and
saw no real benefit.
Of late, I'm using Valvoline synthetic.
Seems slightly thinner than other brands.
My 2¢
Googling dexos 5W30 produced all the usual suspects. The big main major players. I’d go Castrol Magnatec in 5W30 due to low price.
I buy whats on sale or has a rebate, as cheap as full syn is (and almost all are at least Dexos 1) I cant see using anything else. I would stick with the 5W30 or 0W30 if available. I changed the oil in my equinox (4 cyl) for less than $15 using Mobil super syn I got at A.Z. and a AC filter I found priced incorrectly.
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
If you don't burn much oil, say less than a quart per 4,000 miles or so, then the ZDDP content in the 0w40 would not be a problem, since its the phosphorus in ZDDP (the 'P' part) that can foul catalytic convertors if it gets into the combustion chamber too much. You could use any 0w40. I'd use Mobil1 AFE 0w30 in that engine, as it has some Mg detergents replacing some Ca detergents which may keep it from LSPI. I had experienced LSPI in a 2011 Chevy 3.6L DI engine, similar to your engine, as its compression ratio and DI, coupled with the engine mapping and transmission shift points, caused some occasional light LSPI.
Use a Fram Ultra XG10575 oil filter from walmart or amazon.com for best filtering.
I think the M1 0W-30 would be good, also.
I would personally try PP or PUP and a Fram Ultra filter. Change it according to the OLM or yearly
I don't have a fave oil, its whatever that engine seems to like. I put PP and Edge in my my sisters 2010 eqx because the UOA's on here suggest PP and Edge have lowest/least wear metals in samples for that engine. But she complained the engine was vibrating, getting sluggish half way through an OCI. So I moved on to M1 5w30 which is what my 06 6.0L likes. She said it felt peppier, smoother throughout the OCI (in her opinion). So thats what it gets. I suppose another engine could be different, but both GM engines I come in contact with seem smoother on M1.
Looks like 'regular' M1 5w30 is dexos1 gen2 certified, while 0w30 AFE is dexos1 gen1. They both are available and the same price in my area. Probably doesn't matter, but dexos gen2 seems to help with LSPI - http://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand2015/.
I tried to find calcium comparison numbers from oil analysis on the board, but haven't found a 'regular' M1 5w30 sample that has the dexos1 gen2 formula.
OK, I did find some:
M1 0w20 AFE, 4.6K use - Ca 1245, Mg 609 - Link
M1 0w20 AFE, 10K use - Ca 1094, Mg 757 - Link
M1 5w30, 7K use - Ca 1025, Mg 544 - Link
M1 5w30, 10K use - Ca 924, Mg 639 - Link
Looks about the same. Maybe slightly more Ca and Mg in AFE. I will probably go with regular M1 5w30 since the formula seems more updated due to dexos1 gen2; unless there are other numbers I should be looking at for this particular engine.
The AFE 0W-30 might be a little better in the cold. The calcium levels are essentially the same. Within the range of the spec. The 0W-30 probably won't show the Gen.2 rating unless GM uses that particular grade.
I would definitely run Dexos 1 gen 2 full synthetic and not exceed 5000 miles for your oil change interval.
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Originally Posted By: bigj_16
The AFE 0W-30 might be a little better in the cold. The calcium levels are essentially the same. Within the range of the spec. The 0W-30 probably won't show the Gen.2 rating unless GM uses that particular grade.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: bigj_16
The AFE 0W-30 might be a little better in the cold. The calcium levels are essentially the same. Within the range of the spec. The 0W-30 probably won't show the Gen.2 rating unless GM uses that particular grade.
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