Oil, Filter and OCI Recomendation Subaru

[Tmaslar]

I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Automatic Wagon with the 2.5 EJ25 engine. It has 212,000 on the odometer.

The heads were rebuilt 60,000 miles ago. A new Subaru short block was recently installed. I have about 2,000 miles on the new short block.

I initially ran Brad Penn 30WT break in oil for the first 300 miles then switched to Shell Rotella T 10-W30 for the next 1,200 miles. Changed the oil and filter after a total of 1,500 miles on the new short block.

I am currently breaking in the new short block with Shell Rotella T 10-W30 dino oil. I am using the Mazda N3R1-14-302 filter at this time. Planning on doing an oil change after 3,000 miles. 4,500 total miles on the new short block.

Looking for oil and filter and OCI recommendations once the break in on the new short block is complete? Would like to run synthetic oil with a slightly extended OCI. Maybe 4-5,000 miles?

Also trying to decide when to make the switch to full synthetic? How many miles would be required to fully seat(break in) the piston rings on the new short block?

I obviously plan on keeping this car for a long time.

 

[Phishin]

This is pretty much the same engine in my wife's 2009 Forester, except our '09 has improved cooling (head gasket issues were found in your variant), I use a MAF, not a MAP to calculate intake volume, and I have variable intake valving.

But all in all, pretty much the same monster.

I researched a ton when I bought this 2009 Forester 2 years ago. These engines are fairly easy on oil, but extended OCI's are not real commonly practiced on Subie's.

Here's what I run: GC 0w30 in the winter and M1 5w40 TDT in the summer. This car is driven by my wife, who short-trips it to death. I've been going anywhere from 5-8k miles per OCI.

There are some that worry and fret on here about the "special" oil filter that Subie spec's. It has a high bypass pressure of around 23psi, I think. typical filter are 12-14psi. I don't pay any attention to the higher pressure spec, but I do run a bigger filter. I run Wix filters (actually, Napa Gold's) on my cars. The filter that fits my Honda, also fits my Subie perfectly, but it's just longer. So that's what I run on both cars.

You want to change out the fluid in the front and rear diff's. I run Red Line 75w90. If it's an automatic, go get the Subaru ATF at a dealer. It's fairly cheap. Do a few drain and fills.

 

[CT8]

Engines break in with syn oils just fine. Try some 0w-40 or 5w-40 oils.

 

[Phishin]

Here is a UOA I did fairly recently running M1 TDT and a can of LM MOS2.

 

[Nate1979]

I hate changing the filter on my 2010 Forester. Hard to get my hand in so I use Fram Ultra on 2 OCI's, or 10-15k miles. Fram Ultra is a great filter for Subie's - high quality, great media, high flow, etc.

 

[anl0109]

I tried Kendall and then Valvoline synthetic blend oils for fairly short (under 4K) OCI in my 2002 Forester. Both were 5w-30 but sheared down to thicker 20 grade. I then tried Castrol Edge EP 10w-30 (gold bottle) and it stayed in grade very nicely. Not sure if that's a concern to you... just thought I'd mention.

As to filter, I've been using blue Subaru OEM filters and changing every OC. I don't have the car anymore due to an accident, unfortunately, but have a couple of filters, crush washers and even an ATF filter (black spin-on) left. It's been a great vehicle...

 

[Tmaslar]

Originally Posted By: Nate1979
I hate changing the filter on my 2010 Forester. Hard to get my hand in so I use Fram Ultra on 2 OCI's, or 10-15k miles. Fram Ultra is a great filter for Subie's - high quality, great media, high flow, etc.


I have read good things about the Fram Ultras. Is there an issue with the bypass pressure?

 

[Tmaslar]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Here is a UOA I did fairly recently running M1 TDT and a can of LM MOS2.

Is the high Moly from the LM?

 

[Tmaslar]

Here's what I run: GC 0w30 in the winter and M1 5w40 TDT in the summer. This car is driven by my wife, who short-trips it to death. I've been going anywhere from 5-8k miles per OCI.

Is the GC still readily available here in the US?

You want to change out the fluid in the front and rear diff's. I run Red Line 75w90. If it's an automatic, go get the Subaru ATF at a dealer. It's fairly cheap. Do a few drain and fills. [/quote]

I already have the Redline diff oils in.

 

[Phishin]

Tmaslar:

Yes, the high moly is from me running a can of LM MOS2 in the crankcase.

You can get GC at some Autozones and Pep Boys, etc. I have it because I bought a ton of it when it was on clearance. There is nothing special about GC that you can't use another oil.

I'm about out of GC, so next winter, I'll be using either Mobil 1 0w30AFE or their 0w40. Either is a great oil. M1 0w40 is basically a 30 weight to begin with. So, no worries.

I still have 4-5 gallon jugs of M1 TDT left, so I'm good on summer oil for awhile.

Good news throwing Red Line in the diffs. What about the ATF???

 

[Tmaslar]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Tmaslar:

Good news throwing Red Line in the diffs. What about the ATF???


I changed the tranny fluid with a synthetic Dexron. I forget which brand I used? I also replaced the spin on filter. Anything special about the Suby tranny fluid?

Do you know the part number of the Napa Gold oil filter you are using?

 

[krismoriah72]

I own a 2001 Forester with EJ25. Bought it with around 250K and speedometer wasnt working with blown head gaskets, was a fleet vehicle and they drove it overheated. I overheated it twice getting home from their shop. Did a quick head gasket swap and fixed odometer and still drive it weekly with 390K miles showing. I run whatever is on sale or clearance 5W30 or as close as i can get to that and change oil at 5K miles or so. (mostly Smittys 5w30 from kmart). I use the napa silver filters.

I changed the valve covers last year due to the tube seals leaking when i did the tuneup and it was very clean except for a light varnish.

Year before last I bought a 2003 forester that was immaculate inside and out. It had all dealer oil changes at 3000 or so miles and had 120K on the odometer. I have never seen a cleaner and more pristine used car..it was owned by a rich guy that mostly drove it back and forth to Maine and on vacations with his family. When i bought it it had piston slap and i thought i could live with it but i could not..it drove me and my wife crazy..so i sold it shortly thereafter.

I have worked on a 2001 forester with 500K plus miles that still works today as a rural carrier locally. The guy bought it in 2001 new and still runs his route with it. He runs valvoline 5w30 and a fram filter.

So to sum up ive owned a couple of legacys an impreza and two foresters... all had their own unique problems and nickel and dimed with wheel bearings, struts etc. My advice is to run dino 5w30 and a oil filter specd for your subaru and save money for the other things. Some engines have design flaws such as head gaskets or piston skirts that dont care what kind of oil you use...otherwise the EJ25 is bulletproof.

 

[Phishin]

Originally Posted By: Tmaslar


Do you know the part number of the Napa Gold oil filter you are using?


http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/FIL7356_0533671935

Napa's run filter sales a couple of times a year. You can usually pick up these filter for like $3.xx each. Ask your local guy when the next filter sale is. Get yourself a new Napa Gold air filter as well at that time.