Short oil change interval oil recommendation

[fozzdesy2001]

I have a 2025 Nissan Pathfinder Rock Creek and I have already completed the engine break in with oil changes at 700, and 2200 miles already. I am currently at 4200 miles and am doing another oil and filter change. My plan is to run 3,000 to 3,500 mile oil changes after break in since these direct injection VQ engines are known to be extremely hard on oil. My question is since I am doing such short intervals, is there any benefit to spending the extra money on Mobil 1 ESP 0W20 or would I realistically not experience any benefit vs like Quaker State full synthetic? I am currently running Carquest Premium filters since they seem to have the best repeatable quality.

Pennzoil conventional, Supertech, or any name brand you can get on sale that meets your specs. These are short-change oils; there's no point in going broke

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[userfriendly]

Define "hard on oil".

Never heard of it

 

[D1dad]

My 21 and 24 Altima 2.5s use DI and port. If yours is the same, the fuel dilution isn’t anywhere near severe. There’s some analysis floating around here showing as much. Either way, I use quality oil for 3 seasons (hpl, schaeffers, torco, Hps) and only run an interval of 5-7k. Winter time and I’ll use whatever big box oil I have on hand and change it @3-4 k, depending on how it was short tripped. Unfortunately having cvts that need extensive warm up time in sub zero weather, there’s lots of idle time involved.

 

[ATex7239]

Pennzoil conventional, Supertech, or any name brand you can get on sale that meets your specs. These are short-change oils; there's no point in going broke

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If one becoming financially strapped due to oil changes they shouldn’t have purchased a brand new $40,000 vehicle. As they have bigger problems than oil costs and intervals.

 

[D1dad]

If one becoming financially strapped due to oil changes they shouldn’t have purchased a brand new $40,000 vehicle. As they have bigger problems than oil costs and intervals.

Yep. Plus, if you apply what the lube store would charge to a DIY. You can have boutique oil and a good filter. As opposed to bulk swill and a jobber filter. I always laugh when Nissan sends me coupons for a $99.95 full synthetic oil change.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Define "hard on oil".

I was just thinking how just adding a hyphen could change this thread forever.

 

[facility1]

Define "hard on oil".

Well, short trips not allowing oil to come up to operating temps ,,Climate (cold) & condensation can also be a factor, or excessive hot weather and heavy loads, not changing your oil and filter at a effective time interval, aggressive driving habits, Mechanical condition of the engine long timing chains contributing to premature shearing of the oil, ,or just poor engine design, bad maintenance practices of the engine ( air filter ,plugs etc) , not running a top tier fuel,,,,,j

 

[TiGeo]

Well, short trips not allowing oil to come up to operating temps ,,Climate (cold) & condensation can also be a factor, or excessive hot weather and heavy loads, not changing your oil and filter at a effective time interval, aggressive driving habits, Mechanical condition of the engine long timing chains contributing to premature shearing of the oil, ,or just poor engine design, bad maintenance practices of the engine ( air filter ,plugs etc) , not running a top tier fuel,,,,,j

So a brand new Nissan that the OP has with a ho-hum NA V6 engine driving normally is "hard on oil"? I would think it's just "average on oil". Folks around this page think everything is hard on oil when it isn't. Sure, lots of short tripping or towing would potentially necessitate a shorter interval or maybe moving up a grade or two if you want to be super careful.

 

[Texas Frontier]

Never heard of it

These engines are prone to sludging and have very long complex timing chains that tend to mechanically shear oil. With these being direct injection engines, they run much dirtier than their port injection predecessor.

 

[Alex123]

Pennzoil and Castrol both have rebates right now if you are worried about cost. You can get much better oils than Supertech or basic Quaker State for less with hardly any effort utilizing the electronic rebates. Buy oil online, get it delivered to your house, submit rebate online, get paid electronically.

Do you know if Walmart is part of the listed retailers?

 

[ATex7239]

Do you know if Walmart is part of the listed retailers?

Yes

 

[Hohn]

i guess you mean not any 40 grade.the castrol you posted above ,from base oil side, doent have to do anything with the other 2 you mentioned . not all 5w40 or 0w40 are so good to hold visc100 at a good level. castrol 0w40 a3/b4 would be a better choice i think.

On a 5000 mile OCI, even a group III 5w-40 or 0w-40 A3/B4 oil will suffice quite nicely. Even oils today that have PAO in them don't have it as anything more than a minimum amount. The days of 70% + PAO content in a shelf oil are gone forever.

A3/B4 oils primarily get their oxidation resistance from the advanced antioxidants used in them, not from the base oil itself.

then this contradicts what you are suggesting, we want to combine an oil that has a good and stable viscosity but also low ash.40 oils are mainly high saps oils producing more ash which contributes to more deposits.
maybe the C3 40 grade is are the best combination regarding these 2 problems

It doesn't contradict in that ash content for piston deposits is only a concern if you have high oil consumption. If you are consuming a lot of oil, the perhaps a mid-SAPS oil would be better. But if your consumption is minor as it should be, a full SAPS oil is very clean indeed.

 

[Texas Frontier]

On a 5000 mile OCI, even a group III 5w-40 or 0w-40 A3/B4 oil will suffice quite nicely. Even oils today that have PAO in them don't have it as anything more than a minimum amount. The days of 70% + PAO content in a shelf oil are gone forever.

A3/B4 oils primarily get their oxidation resistance from the advanced antioxidants used in them, not from the base oil itself.

It doesn't contradict in that ash content for piston deposits is only a concern if you have high oil consumption. If you are consuming a lot of oil, the perhaps a mid-SAPS oil would be better. But if your consumption is minor as it should be, a full SAPS oil is very clean indeed.

I am going to purchase oil this evening and see that Walmart sells the 5W30 Castrol Edge Euro car and the Mobil 0W30 ESP. Is one of these significantly better than the other for my application?

 

[Carlostrece]

I am going to purchase oil this evening and see that Walmart sells the 5W30 Castrol Edge Euro car and the Mobil 0W30 ESP. Is one of these significantly better than the other for my application?

Signifigantly better? I don't think so.

Slightly better? Probably Mobil 1 ESP.

Enough different to matter in any meaningful way? Probably not.

 

[Plumb Bob]

When I recommend significantly thicker oils (40 grade) in newer engines, it is not for nothing. It can take that much extra viscosity on the front end to ensure that after 5k miles you still have have sufficient viscosity after 5%-8% fuel dilution or some shear thinning.

The 40 grade Euro oils shine for these reasons-- they have both the higher viscosity and the robust antioxidants necessary to combat fuel dilution's worst effects.

Castrol Edge Euro, Mobil 1 ESP 0w40, Mobil 1 FS Euro, and even Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w-40 are all superb choices for 5k OCIs for this engine.

View attachment 323182

View attachment 323183
You can go with cheaper oils on 3k intervals but the engine will not be cleaner and it won't save any money compared to running a better, more suitable oil for double that.

And Quaker State Euro 5W-40. So cheap, it's a steal.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Quaker-S...uart/737859365?classType=VARIANT&from=/search

 

[CleanSump]

I ran Castrol EDGE Euro 5W-30 in our BMW X3 N52 for 130k miles and it doesn't burn oil and isn't sludged up. Either will work. The ESP 0W-30 would likely be perceived as "better" than either of the 5W-30s due to the esters and ANs.

 

[Hohn]

I am going to purchase oil this evening and see that Walmart sells the 5W30 Castrol Edge Euro car and the Mobil 0W30 ESP. Is one of these significantly better than the other for my application?

I don't know what "significant" means.

I will say this: the 0w-30 ESP is a "medium SAPS" oil with a superb base oil blend that includes PAO and some significant amount of ester. The oil has been shown to clean up some deposits on some engines (filter spuds, etc).

The 5w-30 Castrol is an Full SAPS oil with a cheaper base oil blend and little to no ester.


While I'm a fan of full SAPS, I think it's not worth giving up the better base oil and ester content of the ESP. If it's *my* money, I'm buying the Mobil 1 ESP 10/10 times.

 

[D1dad]

Well, short trips not allowing oil to come up to operating temps ,,Climate (cold) & condensation can also be a factor, or excessive hot weather and heavy loads, not changing your oil and filter at a effective time interval, aggressive driving habits, Mechanical condition of the engine long timing chains contributing to premature shearing of the oil, ,or just poor engine design, bad maintenance practices of the engine ( air filter ,plugs etc) , not running a top tier fuel,,,,,j

Cold climate for sure. I just unscrewed the oil cap on the wife’s 24 Altima. Looks like a milkshake underneath and the level rose slightly above the full mark. Same way with my 21. Luckily both cars have over 5k on the oil so I won’t feel so bad about dumping two sumps full of Schaeffers. This is why I run cheaper oil (usually) in northern Ohio winters.

 

[facility1]

I don't know what "significant" means.

I will say this: the 0w-30 ESP is a "medium SAPS" oil with a superb base oil blend that includes PAO and some significant amount of ester. The oil has been shown to clean up some deposits on some engines (filter spuds, etc).

The 5w-30 Castrol is an Full SAPS oil with a cheaper base oil blend and little to no ester.


While I'm a fan of full SAPS, I think it's not worth giving up the better base oil and ester content of the ESP. If it's *my* money, I'm buying the Mobil 1 ESP 10/10 times.

And the band plays on.............

 

[svenson]

On a 5000 mile OCI, even a group III 5w-40 or 0w-40 A3/B4 oil will suffice quite nicely. Even oils today that have PAO in them don't have it as anything more than a minimum amount. The days of 70% + PAO content in a shelf oil are gone forever.

and then :

I don't know what "significant" means.

I will say this: the 0w-30 ESP is a "medium SAPS" oil with a superb base oil blend that includes PAO and some significant amount of ester. The oil has been shown to clean up some deposits on some engines (filter spuds, etc).

The 5w-30 Castrol is an Full SAPS oil with a cheaper base oil blend and little to no ester.


While I'm a fan of full SAPS, I think it's not worth giving up the better base oil and ester content of the ESP. If it's *my* money, I'm buying the Mobil 1 ESP 10/10 times.

so you claim first that for 1 5000mile oci even a group 3 will get the job done and dont have a significant difference with todays PAO based oils but later you hype for the superb base oil blend that includes PAO of esp 0-30 and critise the cheaper base oil of 5-30.
the you also say:

f your consumption is minor as it should be, a full SAPS oil is very clean indeed.

but you will choose a c3 oil bcs :

While I'm a fan of full SAPS, I think it's not worth giving up the better base oil and ester content of the ESP. If it's *my* money, I'm buying the Mobil 1 ESP 10/10 times.

contradict again.so the conclusion is ,by your words that for a 5000 miles oci not any 5w-30 or 0w40 or 5w40 is the same.
so you agree with me!

he castrol you posted above ,from base oil side, doent have to do anything with the other 2 you mentioned . not all 5w40 or 0w40 are so good to hold visc100 at a good level. castrol 0w40 a3/b4 would be a better choice i think.