Oil Dilution prone Honda 1.5L Earth dreams - Would 0W16 be a better choice over specced 0W20?
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No, I get it and it all makes sense to go thicker. My point is what if…0w16 really does the trick with Di fuel dilution? Take a walk in the wild side. Let’s see??
It psychically can't. Just do a fuel dilution calculation on any oil, and the more fuel that's in the oil, the thinner the oil viscosity becomes. No amount of physics is going to change that fact.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
How? You can't preface a statement with "it makes sense to go thicker" and then propose that going the opposite direction might "do the trick", which completely ignores the logic that supports the first statement.
Cold fusion ...
No. She was a softball player and walking the 3 miles to the isolated practice field wasn't a smart option.
If I had a Honda 1.5t DI engine I’d see what the @10k UOA’s say. What I’m saying is that I understand the thickie argument (did I already say that in prior posts?) but I’d like to see 0w-16 UOA’s in DI 1.5turbos for the recommended oci.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Well, your first mistake here is stating that the recommendation of running a heavier lubricant is a "thickie" argument. That is predicated on the idea that those advocating for a heavier oil are heavier oil advocates more broadly, which isn't the case.
The recommendation for heavier oil is due to the function of fuel on viscosity, and that is quite simply that it reduces it. That's not up for debate, that's what happens, full-stop.
Your second mistake is stating that a UOA will tell you something valuable beyond the obvious fact that the oil will thinner (which we already know). UOA's are not a substitute for tear-down testing and analysis and allusions to the contrary are not productive.
I get the impression that you are being contrary here not for the sake of advancing the conversation but to simply take a position that is at odds with what has been presented to see what you can stir up.
Actually, you are correct but 30+ miles at highway speed should boil off all the fuel in the oil.
Maybe and maybe not. That would depend on the amount of fuel present. If you have been short tripping for several weeks and then drove that 30 mile highway trip, it might not be enough.
Todays engines are running at 2000rpm or less at highway speeds. That’s another issue. Getting those rpm’s up will have a better effect.
Of course, none of this is scientific. Performing GC tests of the oil before and after in different scenarios would tell a better story.
Don't ever buy one w that logic unless you have several thousand for a rebuild. I had a civic w the 1.5l and my wife would just get it serviced by the dealer per the recommended mileage and then we got together and I took over maintenance. Compared to the fresh 20weight I put back in it it was consistency of water, black and smelt like gas not used oil the first time I changed it. I put 20weight back in it bc it was under warranty but cut our oil changes to 3k the first time and went up to 5k eventually. Love my Hondas and that motor is powerful but such a poor design flaw
this puts crankcase ventilation to another level !!!!!!
If thats actually the case i am amazed by that, that should evaporize all the dilution pretty easily. Do these cars have an oil temp gauge? Maybe they run on the cold side combined with colder climates.
As already said here i dont see thinner oils making any difference in this. Only possible improvement would be a software update like honda already did.
Ofcourse even then they can only adjust things to a limited amount because ideally you want the engine to run at around 14,7 afr and i dont see how you can modify the injection times in such a way that would prevent the problem and still maintain 14,7 afr.
Only cold start procedure could be tuned a little bit because useally they run at around 13,5 for a couple of minutes. However leaning it out would create poor running engines and an increased nox poloution but maybe they lowered the treshold for what is considered a ''cold start'' and at which temps the engine can run on normal afr again.
Yes these engines take a long time to come up to temp. Heat for the cabin air takes forever as I've seen the engine is called "so efficient" that you should not use ECO mode, turn off start stop, and don't idle long in traffic.
Keeping the floor mats clear of buit up snow and water is also a problem.
Using the remote start to warm the cabin and clear the windows is useless.
https://www.thedrive.com/news/39980...cr-vs-and-civics-cant-stay-warm-during-winter
Crazy that such a modern engine with all the modern technolgies suffers from taking a long time to heat up and thus causing problems like the dilution and related problems.
The engine has a so called headifold so the exhaust manifold is intergrated in the head, this should shorten the warm up time, also the turbo charger is watercooled and should help with oil and coolant warm up.
Engine does not have an oil to water heat exchanger to help with the warm up but because the turbo already creates a lot of heat turbo engines useally dont have these.
I see it has a normal thermostat, most modern bmw mercedes engines use a map operated thermostat or a housing with an operated valve which can be electricly controlled to computer control the heat management.
Maybe that would have solved this, who knows.
This however is offtopic to the ow16 vs ow20 oil topic.
I have that on my 1200cc n-a french lpg baguette. Quite faster warming than 1999 car.
This being a oil question, maybe another route would be to get a compression test.
Why would you want to use a "thinner" oil to help with "OD"? I'd be doing exactly the opposite, and seek/hope for a fix to stop the "OD" problem.
Scotty Kilmer is a YouTube sensationalist, not a legit mechanic. If you believe him, well you'll believe the clerk at the part store next.
If you would have just listened and bought a 1995 toyota corolla you wouldnt have this oil dilution problem.
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