Oil Dilution prone Honda 1.5L Earth dreams - Would 0W16 be a better choice over specced 0W20?

literally, every direct injection had some sort of problems.
human 0:1 physics
combine with belt-in-oil and you´ll put heartattack into another level.
 
No, 0W16 wouldn't help. It would only make things worse.

Here is what actually does help in that particular engine: 91/93 grade fuel and 0W40/5W40 oil in the crankcase.

More info is available on Civic/Accord/CR-V forums for that 1.5T engine. But in short - fill up with higher octane, and change to "Euro" rated oil. With that combo results are instant and last full recommended OCI, or longer in case of few folks who prefer extended OCIs. And higher octane does result in ECU allowing for a few extra ponies, as well as slightly better MPG when those ponies aren't pushed.

The only times when fuel dilution still shows it's ugly rear end - is when vehicle is short tripped in cold weather.
Can I use a euro rated 0w30 or 5w30 in my Earth Dreams DI Accord? If so, what brand do you suggest? Can I use m1 esp 0 or 5w30? Please explain as this is fantastic info to know. Thanks!
 
Can I use a euro rated 0w30 or 5w30 in my Earth Dreams DI Accord? If so, what brand do you suggest? Can I use m1 esp 0 or 5w30? Please explain as this is fantastic info to know. Thanks!
You definitely can, pick a brand that is widely available locally and is reputable. M1 ESP oils are great choice. Your results may be same, or may be slightly different. Hard to tell, as there isn't enough data on the ESP 30-grade oils in this application. But higher viscosity should still help.

The only reason for higher viscosity - is it helps to offset the negative effects of fuel dilution. Effects such as oil thinning for example. As result - longer OCI is possible without negative effects, when comparing a 20-grade and a 40-grade with everything else being the same.

The reason for higher octane - ECU makes necessary adjustments to run higher octane knock-free, and burns it more efficiently. As result, with all things being equal, a higher octane fuel doesn't make it past the rings and into the crankcase in as large quantities as lower octane fuel.

In conclusion: once you combine the higher viscosity oil with higher octane fuel - you get the perfect combination that does not fix oil dilution, but helps minimize its effects to a much more acceptable and controlled state. Depending on your climate and driving style - fuel dilution may just become a thing of the past with the above mentioned "recipe".
 
You definitely can, pick a brand that is widely available locally and is reputable. M1 ESP oils are great choice. Your results may be same, or may be slightly different. Hard to tell, as there isn't enough data on the ESP 30-grade oils in this application. But higher viscosity should still help.

The only reason for higher viscosity - is it helps to offset the negative effects of fuel dilution. Effects such as oil thinning for example. As result - longer OCI is possible without negative effects, when comparing a 20-grade and a 40-grade with everything else being the same.

The reason for higher octane - ECU makes necessary adjustments to run higher octane knock-free, and burns it more efficiently. As result, with all things being equal, a higher octane fuel doesn't make it past the rings and into the crankcase in as large quantities as lower octane fuel.

In conclusion: once you combine the higher viscosity oil with higher octane fuel - you get the perfect combination that does not fix oil dilution, but helps minimize its effects to a much more acceptable and controlled state. Depending on your climate and driving style - fuel dilution may just become a thing of the past with the above mentioned "recipe".
I'd like to say thank you for what you've analyzed and put forth for information. My last question is I'm already using a 5W-30 synthetic and was wondering if using a euro 0w or 5w has any added benefit from what I'm already using. As for octane rating I fill up every day in El Dorado Kansas at the Conoco with 88 octane. Do I need to do something differently.
 
Daughters civic coupe with 1.5 fuel dilution is crazy. Short trips around college campus was never offset by monthly 400 mile highway round trips home and back. Levels on dipstick often got over a half inch above the orange tip full mark.
Back when we had a 18 CRV. I measured 1.5 qrts extra fuel in the oil. OCI was 7000 miles, 20K on the vehicle. She has a 19 Pilot now.
 
I'd like to say thank you for what you've analyzed and put forth for information. My last question is I'm already using a 5W-30 synthetic and was wondering if using a euro 0w or 5w has any added benefit from what I'm already using. As for octane rating I fill up every day in El Dorado Kansas at the Conoco with 88 octane. Do I need to do something differently.
The winter rating isn’t going to make much difference with fuel dilution.
 
Will using a Euro oil be better than a A5 B5 5w30 synthetic?
Your use of "Euro oil" is confusing here, ACEA A5/B5 is a "Euro oil". What are you asking about exactly? And grade isn't especially relevant nor is the base stock composition, in order to obtain an ACEA sequence there has to be a minimum HT/HS as well as a plethora of other requirements.
 
European owners manual for 2018 Accord.
 

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