Originally Posted By: va3ux
Apples and oranges. A solvent flush should attack nearly any HC based deposit and do it quickly, of course with the apparent risk of sloughing deposit too quickly and possibly blocking an oil passage. ARX is far gentler, takes longer, and is safer on a number of fronts. But based on many posts here over the past several years, it apparently does not work equally in all engines, or equally with all deposits.
I'd just caution everyone that a solvent flush doesn't work equally on all deposits either. When I came on here I talked up Berryman Chemtool so much for flushing that people thought I was a salesman. Why? Because I had SEEN it work! I'd seen it blast carbon off of piston crowns and spark plugs (much better than Seafoam, BTW). I also knew that any time I had dabbed some on a deposit, it would rub it right off. That being said, for my particular engine in my current car with its particular circumstances, it never did a thing. Even with ten ounces.
And let me be totally honest here, I recently tried a flush again, against my better judgment. Arx has done a great job of cleaning out my major deposits but a recent failed thermo had left me with a nice new coat of varnish on my valve train in my destiney-to make deposits SAAB b235 engine. Well, out of exasperation that my recovered engine was now faced with another hurdle to overcome, I succumbed to mixing up a brew for flushing. I mixed up about 8 ounces of toluene, acetone, MEK, and ethanol. I took a shop towel and dabbed some on a spot on the valve train. Yep. wiped the varnish right off and left shiny, clean metal. So, I giddily poured the stuff into my oil and cranked up the engine. I ran it for roughly 15 minutes, maybe a tad longer. I drained the oil out and then pulled the valve cover off.
Result... Nothing... not a bit of visual change to anything. Same varnish was there. Same remaining gooey deposits were still there. Same remaining hard carbon deposits-still there. Of course, I have no idea what else it might have done. In a sheer panic that all I'd done was more harm to my engine, I grabbed my coathanger-based oil pickup mesh scraper that I use to check for clogs. Nothing there either! So all I seemed to get out of this was the possibility that I might have added a bit of extra wear to my engine's internals from thinned out oil. I base this on the squeak, squeak squeak I got from some un-lubricated internal part rubbing metal that I got as I cranked the engine on fill-up. Same squeak I got the 1st time I used a flush in this car. I never get that from draining oil alone or oil with arx. Just the two times I've flushed it.
So, I filled the engine back up with oil and in went another maintenance dose of arx.
So to say without a doubt that a strong aromatic is going to clean up every type of deposit is just as dubious a statement.
The moral being there is no silver bullet for every person and no miracle cure for every situation. Frank knows that and that's why, from what I've seen on here he'll help customers try and tailor arx for their individual application to try and get the most out of it. And if it the customer isn't impressed, he offers a money back guarantee. Frank's fair to you if you're fair to him. Lol, no commercial intended. He's just pointing out there ARE potential problems with using solvents that don't exist with arx. And he's right.
FYI, my personal list of routes I've tried to cleaning my engine other than arx include: Berryman Chemtool (toluene, hexanes, methanol and acetone), Redline (ester/PAO with high levels of zddp/calcium), HDEOs (high levels of ZDDP/calcium), LC20 (cyclohexanone), Neutra 131 (N-butyl alcohol and cresylic acid), my homebrew flush (MEK, toluene, methanol, acetone)... So please don't think I've got "following the crowd" mentality for my post. I've tried several routes. None of the sure-fire methods were very sure-fire for me except arx.