Oil Consumption - 99 Rodeo 3.2L

[Plimbob]

Overview
My daughter's Rodeo has started using a quart of oil about every 400 miles over the last several months. Prior to that it used about a quart every 1,000 miles. The engine has 126,000 miles and I have used VML 10-30 and puralator one filter for the last 18 months. There are no leaks and it doesn't appear to burning it? The driving conditions are primarily around town and that has not changed.


I have been told the oil galleries in this engine are quite small and get blocked easily. I plan to add 8 oz of Kreen to the oil and run it for about 750-1,000 miles and do a change. I guess we'll see if that improves things. I also plan to replace the PVC as well.

The questions for the forum:

1, Has any one had experience with this engine and sudden oil consumption?
2. Is there an alternative route you all would suggest?

Thanks much,
Tim

 

[JTK]

A common occurrence for 1998-2004 Isuzu 3.2/3.5s. I used to be quite active in all that was Rodeo/Trooper related years ago when I owned my 2002 Rodeo and have another Rodeo and Trooper in the family. The suspected cause of this was inadequate oil drain-back holes in the pistons (drilled in the oil ring land area).

Ways to help:

1) Pull the plugs and do a Seafoam (or the likes) soak in all 6 cylinders overnight or longer if you can. Turn the engine over to blow it all out, change the oil, button it up and go with it.

2) Clean all the EGR plumbing to allow the cylinders to run as cool as possible. You can pull the EGR valve, idle the engine and spray a can of carb/intake cleaner into the vacuum that's being pulled at the EGR mounting base. The EGR tube exits into the upper intake and you can see the end of this pipe if you pull the rubber intake hose at the throttle body, carefully open the throttle plate and peek in there.

3) Run 15w40 engine oil, which these engines run on well.

4) Just stay in the habit of checking and adding oil when needed.


These are actually very tough engines, but will spin the #1 rod bearing if run too low on oil.

 

[PimTac]

That's a lot of oil all of a sudden. No leaks? No smoke?

 

[Kuato]

I like JTK's suggestion but I'd also check PCV valve ... I would think that oil galleries would plug over time, a sudden change could indicate something else.

 

[JTK]

^ Yep. Good call. Check the PCV valve as well. Needing a quart of oil every ~400mi is higher than the usual, but this would change depending on ambient conditions, usage, type/condition of the oil in the sump.

 

[901Memphis]

There are a couple of additives that might help, the first I would try is ATP 205. It helped a bit with the old seals on my high mileage Nissan. Even though my consumption is low I could smell burning oil when I got over a certain rpm, now it only smells when I redline it fwiw.

 

[901Memphis]

I forgot to mention the other additive is liqui moly motor oil saver. The motor oil saver is more of a thickener with seal conditioners in it but the atp 205 is a light product like water that has lots of seal conditioners in it.

 

[Plimbob]

Hey JTK,

When you suggest 15w40 are you referring to Diesel grade like Rottela or Delvac? Also, conventional or synthetic?

Thanks,
Tim

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: Plimbob
Hey JTK,

When you suggest 15w40 are you referring to Diesel grade like Rottela or Delvac? Also, conventional or synthetic?

Thanks,
Tim


15w40 dual rated is what you want, for diesel and gas engines. I would use the conventional type which most of it is anyways, the synthetics are usually 5w40 dual rated since you need more synthetic base oils to get the 5W rating but 15W is easier to attain.

Good Ole Rotella T 15w40 is usually what most refer to but I would try the Maxlife 10w40 first, since it has boosted seal conditioners you might need.

 

[Plimbob]

Thanks Memphis,

1'm going to clean the EGR plumbing replace the pvc and change to Maxlife 10w40 and see what happens. If it continues I'll try the 15w 45.

The info is very much appreciated.

Tim

 

[FCD]

If on Maxlife 10W-30 it doesn't seem to be burning oil stay with that, if you notice that it starts burning oil again switch to Maxlife 10W-40 or a 15W-40 HDEO.

 

[Smoqueed]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I forgot to mention the other additive is liqui moly motor oil saver. The motor oil saver is more of a thickener with seal conditioners in it but the atp 205 is a light product like water that has lots of seal conditioners in it.

ATP 205 and Liquimoly motor oil saver are wonderful products. Most oil saver kind of things are snake-oil, but these are the real deal. Now if seals are cracked or torn, it wont do much, but if they're dry and shrunk, these can work great. Change the PCV valve and try one of these.