Rodeo oil

[Anthony]

My moms 96 trooper has 151k trouble free miles.
It can be a ticker at times!

At 11k it was switched from dino to amsoil s2k 0w30.
At around 60k it was run on M1 5w and 10w30 till about 130k. I found this board and decided to try GC and it was the quietest with that oil.

I came across 6 free qts of 5w30 maxlife synthetic and thats whats been in there for the last 3k or so. It can be quiet at times but the tick comes and goes much more frequently that GC.

Im about ready to cvhange again but I cant decide what to put in!!

The top 2 choices are M1 0w40 and M1 truck and suv 5w40. Which of these two would make it the quietest?

I want to put GC back in but I am having trouble finding it now.

 

[slickfisher]

Yes, I've posted on this several times. The pre 98 SOHC engine I have seen very little if any lower engine issues. The post 98 DOHC engines are much better in terms of design, power, smoothness and valvetrain ruggedness. The SOHC's have an unusual valvetrain design with the intake camshaft having a relay or aux. rocker arm that then acutates the exhaust rocker arms. It is under these rocker arms on the intake shaft that we see the most scoring and most plugged oil gallies most often- though not limit to those always. The gallies are very small and I've seen engine's with little or no sludge or varnish showing marked scoring and discoloration. There is enough oil splash in the valvetrain to keep the things running for years with the valvetrain thrashing away and owner just thinking it the normal engine noise. I just spent about 15 minutes trying to go throught the thousands of photo folders looking for an Isuzu engine of each failure mode without luck.
If one does not have a overall sludge issue which would lead to a plugged oil pump screen a engine flush to try to open the gallies wouldn't hurt. However, the damage is already done and the clearance is created and the thrashing will continue at some level.
The DOHC engines are another issue all together. The valvetrains never have a failure. But the #1 rod bearing does fail on a significant number of these engines.
Yes, many have devised ways of cleaning the EGR tube running the length of the intake plenum and the local Isuzu dealers (what's left of them) feverishly try to sell flush treatments of various types.
I don't like flushes in general, although BG used to make a good kit that contained a flush and then a additive to neutralize the flushes' effects. I have seen flush products actually etch cylinder bores.
The key is to stay on top of the problem. Use top grade oils and fuels. Blow out the engine on a regular basis. This engine loves to rev- it really belongs in a sport car rather than a SUV. Keep the EGR tube clean- pipe cleaners, brake/carb cleaner etc. will do the trick- takes about an hour.
It's really sad. Isuzu is the #3 truck mfg in the world. They've always made reasonably good engines. GM went to them for the state of the art design on their direct injected diesel. Now they own major parts of the company. I have one of the Rodeos with the 120k mi./10yr powertrain warr. I hope they stick around.

And to mdocod, the issue is the size and possibly the pressure at the oil galley. I've seen 30k engines with clean gallies with scored rocker shafts. Yes, if it's plugged a little lube should be helpful, but won't solve the problem. The think is people still get over 100k with the rockers just rattling away.

 

[JTK]

quote:

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Originally posted by mdocod:
I was gona do the EGR thing on my 95 here soon... maybe on monday i'll have some time...

Is it really thay easy- i was looking at the EGR valve and the tube running back behind the motor.... i guess it looks harder to get off that it is, idunno....

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EGR problems are basically unheard of on 1993-1997 3.2's (totally different setup from 1998+), but it couldn't hurt to do a cleaning anyway. It's literally a 5min job on the 1998+ 3.2/3.5's. I've done about 6 of them now.
G/luck
Joel

 

[Ramblin Fever]

So - you've basically answered my point all along - there's no reason or helpfulness in running engine flushes in regards to the ticking on these pre-98 years.

With the exception of your seeing engine flushes actually doing more harm then good.

As you're saying the damage is already done, and the ticking is from "clearance"??

Makes MUCH more sense than these theories of the lifters being clogged from inadequate oil/filter changes.

I mean honestly, how much more frequent should someone NEED to change their oil - every 2-3K should be MORE then sufficient. Sometimes the 2k ritual that I have done at times leads me into an oil change every other week.

With two young boys, 3 young bouncy dogs, 3 trucks, a boat, and lawntractor, working 50+ hrs a week, 1/2 acre yard, and an older neglected house needing upgrades/work - I don't always have the time for an OCI every other week.

I do love my truck's though, I do, and I put a lot into them - but every 3k oci is what it's going back to.

You've answered my ??? thank you.

I will keep on the Rotella 5w-40 with OEM filters, and my usual 3k OCI's, and that be that - ain't much more can be done. At least it's a lot quieter, seems happier now then it did earlier this year.

At 145k now, I've NEVER once cleaned my EGR on this 97 3.2L. I won't be doing that anytime soon, either - there's other maintenance it's getting before that.

 

[mdocod]

quote:

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so- the ticking, and the wear, is in no way related to plugged up galleys?

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actually...

quote:

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If one does not have a overall sludge issue which would lead to a plugged oil pump screen a engine flush to try to open the gallies wouldn't hurt. However, the damage is already done and the clearance is created and the thrashing will continue at some level.

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I finally got a chance to read the TSB for the ticking... The galleys that feed the adjusters, are litterally, about the size of a paper clip.. Even a small amount of varnish of sludge can limit their ablility to operate correctly... Yes... after they have been ticking for awhile, the adjuster becomes worn and out of tolerance... however... In my recent experience with ARX.. (through the clean phase, haven't started the rinse or repeat yet)... unplugging these little holes and getting he adjusters to fill with oil and purge out the air is the ticket. I still have some very minor valve ticking sound... but it is very faint in comparison to how it used to be, and how many of these engines sound...

quote:

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So - you've basically answered my point all along - there's no reason or helpfulness in running engine flushes in regards to the ticking on these pre-98 years. As you're saying the damage is already done, and the ticking is from "clearance"?? Makes MUCH more sense than these theories of the lifters being clogged from inadequate oil/filter changes.

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Well... actually.. the TSB, for the clicking- involves removal of the adjuster, spraying carb cleaner on it, and into the little hole the oil pumps into, then pumping the adjuster by hand submerged in carb cleaner or another heavy duty cleaner, then submerging it in oil and pumping by hand to fill it with oil and purge out the air and reminants of cleaning agents...

So.. actually, the cleanliness- of the galley that feeds the adjuster, is directly related to the ticking. however... The TSB also points out, that if significant wear is alread evident, then the adjuster should be replaced, [as it will still tick from being out of tolerance].


ARX is basically, as easy way to acomplish the recomended proccedure for the ticking, without tearing the thing open. clean varnish/sludge out of the adjuster, problem solved.

 

[sands]

quote:

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Originally posted by slickfisher:
My wife just had to have an 02 Isuzu Rodeo. I knew of #1 rod bearing failures they were having. However the new DOHC engine was much better than the SOHC motor with the auxilary rocker shafts.
I've been using Mobil 1 10-30 (10-30) specified by Isuzu. I believe M1 10-30 to be a good oil but I know the 5w40 has some shear issues. I'm wondering if M1 is the best oil for my Isuzu. I would run GC but that's reserved for the VW 1.8T. I'm thinking of Valvoline's synthetic.
The failures of all the engine's I've inspected (I'm a mechanical failure inspector by trade) show spalling and/or slight scoring to #1 rod bearing only with all other bearings showing debris damages only.
Anywho, anyone have any suggestions on a good lube for the Rodeo. I usually run a 5k mi. OCI but since the price of M1 is so high I though to take it to the OEM 7.5k mi. OCI.
Results have been pretty good with the M1. This engine is know to be an oil user and I usually end up using about a qt every 5k mi.

Anybody got suggestions?

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Well, my wife has an 03' Isuzu Rodeo with the 3.2 V6 with 55,000 miles...

I had too many problems with the car consuming every Mobil product I used...Mobil conventional and several OCI's with Mobil synthetic resulted in consumption of about 1 quart every 3,000 miles...Might not sound as bad as some consumption issues but certainly not acceptable especially for a $6/quart oil.

I tried Chevron Delo 400 15W40 over the summer and the consumption stopped completely...The oil change before the Delo was M1 EP 15W50 and the Rodeo easily consumed that oil...M1 was no match for the Rodeo.

Now I'm I'm using Chevron Supreme 10W30 conventional SM rated oil and it's still at the same level on the dipstick as it was the day I changed the oil which is over 1,200 miles ago....Mobil would have been about 1/2 a quart low by now but the plain Chevron dino oil is able to resist the consumption.

I'll be sticking with Chevron products for a while.