Oil choice for highly modified Japanese turbo 4cyl

I think Red Line HP 5w-30 would be a prime candidate here.

Originally Posted by CT8
The engine has some serious mods ,I would ask the builder of the engine.


You'd be surprised how many engine builders don't know jack squat about oil and don't care to learn. There's one near me who recommends Rotella T4 15w-40 in everything. He's been venturing into higher rpm solid valvetrain stuff and can't figure out why he keeps eating pushrods. He absolutely refuses to accept that the oil is the issue. Rotella is god's gift to oil and there's no changing his mind.
 
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Originally Posted by john_pifer
Again, you haven't even told us what car this is.

Photos, please!



He did. Its a Mitsubishi Eclipse or Talon. The motor was also in a mid 90's Gallant VR4 turbo, and then a later version was in the famed Evo.

Mobil 1 5w50R for the least expensive oil, its what I always used in my Porsche's, or Motul/RedLine if you want to go with the spendy stuff. The type of Oil is not the problem, its either lack of oil, or tuning most likely.

Turbo motors are very temperamental to timing at high RPM's. Often times you can work on freeing up the airflow system and actually lowering boost and make more HP at the tires believe it or not.
 
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
I think Red Line HP 5w-30 would be a prime candidate here.

Originally Posted by CT8
The engine has some serious mods ,I would ask the builder of the engine.


You'd be surprised how many engine builders don't know jack squat about oil and don't care to learn. There's one near me who recommends Rotella T4 15w-40 in everything. He's been venturing into higher rpm solid valvetrain stuff and can't figure out why he keeps eating pushrods. He absolutely refuses to accept that the oil is the issue. Rotella is god's gift to oil and there's no changing his mind.



That's very interesting and a very good point ^^^^^^


I remember watching that show on Fast and Loud where a newly rebuilt motor had issues... Because the guys put a whatever oil in it... After the next rebuild they were told to use a certain break in oil.... At times like those.... What is being run in a engine matters a whole lot.
 
Originally Posted by Mitch Alsup
A couple of questions::
a) was the crankshaft balanced with the weight of the rods, pins, and pistons ?
b) what diameters and clearances are you running:: mains? rods?
c) what oil pressure are you topping out at? and at what RPM? and what is the idle oil pressure? Any oil system modifications?
d) when you bored the block, was the boring bar indexed off the crankshaft center line?
e) what kind of bearings are being used?
f) was it the main bearings or the rod bearings that showed the wear signs?

25 PSI of pressure can put up to 3× the amount of load the stock (unblown) engine sees. In production, one would make the journal larger to carry the load.

cant say but I'm pretty sure the builder and tuner didnt know what they where doing,the 2time the engine blew on the dyno while tuning right after the brake in phase.
sad times.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Again, you haven't even told us what car this is.

Photos, please!


Lately threads like this get rarely updated so good luck ever getting pictures, let alone if we hear back on what oil they decide to go with!
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Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Again, you haven't even told us what car this is.

Photos, please!



He did. Its a Mitsubishi Eclipse or Talon. The motor was also in a mid 90's Gallant VR4 turbo, and then a later version was in the famed Evo.

Mobil 1 5w50R for the least expensive oil, its what I always used in my Porsche's, or Motul/RedLine if you want to go with the spendy stuff. The type of Oil is not the problem, its either lack of oil, or tuning most likely.

Turbo motors are very temperamental to timing at high RPM's. Often times you can work on freeing up the airflow system and actually lowering boost and make more HP at the tires believe it or not.


No, sir, he did not.
 
So guys and gals, I'm looking to step into some engine oil a little higher quality than the Rotella T6 I've historically used on my car. The car is a turbocharged Japanese 4 cylinder and runs anywhere from 15 to 25 psi of boost, up to 8,000rpm, and will see sustained high load driving (road course, autox, canyon carving) as well as street driving. It is a highly modified engine, bored larger than stock with all forged internals. It is not a daily, and I'm happy to shell out more for top quality oil simply because it's cheap insurance. Ideal oil weight is probably 40, but I might consider a 50 weight for any track time it will see in 90*+ weather depending on what clearances I end up running. I would like to run full synthetic, and the car never sees more than about 250* oil temps, typically sitting in the 200-220* range thanks to a very large oil cooler. I change oil after almost every track event.

The primary reason for looking to upgrade the oil that I run in this engine is that it is currently torn down being rebuilt after finding some excessive bearing wear. While basically any old synthetic oil in the right viscosity *should* be fine for my uses, given the nature of the car and the fact that it's currently torn down to rebuild after some accelerated wear, I simply want to fill it with whatever is objectively the best oil I can. The engine sees some excessive forces well beyond what the manufacturer intended - MUCH higher cylinder pressures (the engine makes 3-4x the power of a stock example), higher RPM, a turbocharger, alcohol based fuels, sustained high load+high temp driving, etc. Some oils are certainly going to be more up to the task of dealing with this than others. This is the third time this engine has been out, and I'd really like it to be several years and many thousands of miles before it has to come out again
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If I end up paying a decent bit more for oil changes with a marginal improvement in engine protection, that peace of mind is worth it to me to shell out for something like Amsoil or Schaeffers.

I'm considering options such as LiquiMoly, Motul, Schaeffers, Redline, and Amsoil but I am certainly happy to add other options to that list. I'm sure the car would probably be happy with any of those, but I'm hoping to find some rationale that might bring one or two brands or formulas to the forefront of my consideration. Engine protection is my primary concern here.
Without knowing too much about your engine, I'd run Amsoil. It's $11.30 per quart. or $10.66 in a 12 pack case.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-0w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-azf/
 
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