Oil choice for highly modified Japanese turbo 4cyl

Renewable lubricants HD SHP 5w40. Outperformed all oils in the Audi RS4 for which it was tested. Also reports of excellent performance in the Nissan GTR.

There is also the 15w40 HD SHP which has the highest HTHS of any 40 wt oils. I believe it was tested to have a HTHS of 5.2 cP.
 
0.0022 >.0025" is about correct for a forged crank with a 40 grade oil not run hot. That's not much boost.

Deeper pan, lower pickup, more capacity and attention to windage control

and you wont have to worry about the oil.

BTW, No Need to change oil every event.

I would dial that redline back 500 rpm though
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this engine in a Mitsubishi Evolution?

No it's a Mitsubishi eclipse/eagle talon.
 
My S2000 red lines at 8600 rpm and my oil gets hot(just the stock oil heater/cooler) when on the track. I have 165k miles on my S and for the last few years(45k miles) I've ran a 50/50 mix of M1 0/40 fs and M1 0/50 racing oil. The racing oil has a great anti-wear package(actually to strong for a street engine) so I dilute it with the M1 0/40. Has a ton of moly and ZDDP with a good dose of detergent.

My S is a AP2 so I have a lower red line than the AP1(9000 stock) and some of the guys I race with have a red line of 9600+ rpm. With this mix the weight of this oil is still in the lower end of a 40 weight oil.

Rod
 
Originally Posted by Lasthope05
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this engine in a Mitsubishi Evolution?

No it's a Mitsubishi eclipse/eagle talon.


Nice!
 
Back when i owned a 4G63 Evo8, we used Royal Purple 15w-40 95% of the time. I sold that car with 188k miles; most of which was modified with a Greddy ProfecE engine tune with full intake and exhaust - 360WHP. Back in 2004-05.

We'd love to see pictures... Not too many Talons/Starion/Eclipse around here anymore.
 
Originally Posted by wemay
Back when i owned a 4G11 Evo8, we used Royal Purple 15w-40 95% of the time. I sold that car with 188k miles; most of which was modified with a Greddy ProfecE engine tune with full intake and exhaust - 360WHP. Back in 2004-05.


Careful, you said the infamous "R" word that BITOG loves to hate Royal Purple
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted by RazorsEdge
Originally Posted by wemay
Back when i owned a 4G63 Evo8, we used Royal Purple 15w-40 95% of the time. I sold that car with 188k miles; most of which was modified with a Greddy ProfecE engine tune with full intake and exhaust - 360WHP. Back in 2004-05.


Careful, you said the infamous "R" word that BITOG loves to hate Royal Purple
wink.gif



Tell me about it. My teeth are clenched.
 
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Royal Purple XPR or Redline. That car sounds like it's your baby. Spare no expense on the oil she gets.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Royal Purple XPR or Redline. That car sounds like it's your baby. Spare no expense on the oil she gets.


ðŸ‘
 
For easily-had stuff, my vote is for T6 5W-40, M1/Edge 5W-50. All of them have decently high ZDDP levels, Rotella T6 is seen as oil of the gods by the Subaru guys. Edge 5W-50 has more ZDDP than T6 as well as Castrol's fluid titanium for a bit more protection.

If you can get it locally, Red Line 5W-40 or 10W-40 would be my pick personally. I'd keep the OCIs short and sweet. Not sure about filters and if you need to use certain ones like K&N or Fram Racing ones to meet track or SCCA rules. My head says OEM Mitsu or Fram Ultras would be fine for the street unless a Hyundai-sized filter can work(and the newest Wix 51334s are made in Korea by Mann+Hummel Korea, like OEM Hyundai).

I'm not sure if the Mitsu 4G63 has a tendency to grenade like the Subaru EJ207/255/257. Regardless, rebuilds are a fact of life once you start playing with power.
 
as far as I remember the Subaru had head gasket issues,it was 10 years ago,by now I'm sure its improved.
 
Originally Posted by avi1777
as far as I remember the Subaru had head gasket issues,it was 10 years ago,by now I'm sure its improved.

Ring lands on the EJs also had a tendency to go as well. The later Phase 2 EJ257s had that problem fixed but many builders suggest a set of forged pistons.
 
had a closed deck block, cp forged pistons pauter rods the whole schbang u name it,it blew up twice,I guess" relible"550whp was to early for10,15,years ago.
 
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A couple of questions::
a) was the crankshaft balanced with the weight of the rods, pins, and pistons ?
b) what diameters and clearances are you running:: mains? rods?
c) what oil pressure are you topping out at? and at what RPM? and what is the idle oil pressure? Any oil system modifications?
d) when you bored the block, was the boring bar indexed off the crankshaft center line?
e) what kind of bearings are being used?
f) was it the main bearings or the rod bearings that showed the wear signs?

25 PSI of pressure can put up to 3× the amount of load the stock (unblown) engine sees. In production, one would make the journal larger to carry the load.
 
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