Oil burning journey 2006 CR-V with 176k mi

[Fredxt]

Update
184,000 mi

• Berryman’s piston soak followed by MMO piston soak, each for about an hour.
• Pistons 2 and 4 were leaking into sump at a faster rate. Piston 2 was dry after the hour.
• The spark plug on piston 1 looked perfect, piston 2’s looked ok (weird because it drained the soak fastest), and 3 and 4 had signs of oil contamination. I suspect valves need to be checked.
• Added 2 qt of the HPL 5w40 and 2.5 qt of the HPL 0w30, along with new Fram Ultra filter.
• Cleaned throttle body.

Car runs fine after it got done burning off the residual MMO. I’m noticing more valve tick with the HPL than with the Amsoil. It’s more like when I ran M1 5w20. Interesting. Maybe has more to do with filter?

Side note, after driving the car for a couple miles I noticed the pipette I used was slightly chipped. I am paranoid that a ~1mm glass chip was left in a cylinder from the pipette. I don’t know if it was like that before I began. I’m planning on replacing coils in a couple days. Maybe I’ll vacuum the cylinders then… not that it likely matters since a particle that small would probably get ejected through the exhaust already. Ugh.

this guy used seafoam and redline in a 50/50 mix and it worked for them


but the process takes a few days, not sure if 1 hr is enough

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I dont know what your experience is, but it makes little sense to add small amounts of oil when there is an ADD line and a Full line.
Especially knowing the measuring system itself is not particularly accurate.
Even stuff like settling time and how the vehicle is parked change the view on the dipstick.

Everyone's experience is different and what makes little sense to you makes great sense to others. I check all my cars when I buy gas, normally same station, same pump so parked at same angles etc. Pull in, pop hood, pull dipstick and wipe off, leave out while I fill up. When I'm done filling up I check the oil level, might be a couple minutes difference depending how much gas I bought. I always fill up, not $20 etc. I add when it's a 1/4 qt low, for me that is about 1/4 down between full and add.

I also check them at work before I leave to go home normally every other week. I park in same designated spot, back in, nice and flat spot. Cars sit there for 10 hours prior to check. Not exact science and measurement but close enough for my world.

In over 40 years driving and more helping maintain, full is better than add for me. Some of my cars only take 4 qts so "add line" means I'm already 25% down on many oil related factors. I've taken multiple vehicles over 200k, others close to that. "Knocks on wood", I have only had 1 motor failure and that was at 220k in my '07 Sonata 2.4L 5MT. Probably could have been fixed if I had the time/energy/money. Still started and ran when scrapped. I suspect balance shaft chain/tensioner went due to sudden motor vibration at 3k rpm followed by puking oil around timing chain area. Car was rusting and the timing chain/ BSM chain was more than 2x the value of the car. More if the actual balance shaft module was bad that you wouldn't know until after reassembly. Hyundai only part and over $800 for just the part at the time. Then redo the timing chain labor to replace it.

 

[MSCH]

Everyone's experience is different and what makes little sense to you makes great sense to others. I check all my cars when I buy gas, normally same station, same pump so parked at same angles etc. Pull in, pop hood, pull dipstick and wipe off, leave out while I fill up. When I'm done filling up I check the oil level, might be a couple minutes difference depending how much gas I bought. I always fill up, not $20 etc. I add when it's a 1/4 qt low, for me that is about 1/4 down between full and add.

I also check them at work before I leave to go home normally every other week. I park in same designated spot, back in, nice and flat spot. Cars sit there for 10 hours prior to check. Not exact science and measurement but close enough for my world.

In over 40 years driving and more helping maintain, full is better than add for me. Some of my cars only take 4 qts so "add line" means I'm already 25% down on many oil related factors. I've taken multiple vehicles over 200k, others close to that. "Knocks on wood", I have only had 1 motor failure and that was at 220k in my '07 Sonata 2.4L 5MT. Probably could have been fixed if I had the time/energy/money. Still started and ran when scrapped. I suspect balance shaft chain/tensioner went due to sudden motor vibration at 3k rpm followed by puking oil around timing chain area. Car was rusting and the timing chain/ BSM chain was more than 2x the value of the car. More if the actual balance shaft module was bad that you wouldn't know until after reassembly. Hyundai only part and over $800 for just the part at the time. Then redo the timing chain labor to replace it.

realistically, until the oil level falls below the oil pickup point, you will always have oil pressure. low level may cause oil to run a bit hotter but until you reach the point of pump cavitation you always have oil pressure.