Berrymans is much stronger than seafoam and doing a piston soak overnight is more effective than putting it in the crankcase. Also try using a straight 30 weight in warm weather to see if that helps.Ivery thought about that but guess if seafoam in the crankcase doesn't work to clean coked piston oil rings then a berrymans piston soak might not clear coked piston oil rings either.
Maybe I'm wrong.....?
the seals around the valve stems, both intake & exhaust. their primary job is to keep oil under the valve covers from being sucked into the intake ports. When they age harden, oil seeps past & gets consumed. All the time. The oil burn is very slight when the engine runs down the road, but it is happening. They are cheap rubber/viton seals for the valve stems, the cost is all in the labor to pull the old & install the fresh ones.If valve seal were bad, wouldn't compression also be bad?
That's my understanding but really don't know.
My sister lives in Austin area... Bee Cave to be exact. I plan on seeing her for Christmas hopefully.No need to junk it. It looks good and has a new transmission.
Tell anybody looking at a 20/200K vehicle that it burns oil and they'll just ask, "how much?".
5 months, you say? Get the viscous gook out of the engine, fill it with a high mileage 15W-40 and go for that long drive.
You can visit my pal in Austin.
Good info. Makes sense as to why I've seen the term umbrella seal.the seals around the valve stems, both intake & exhaust. their primary job is to keep oil under the valve covers from being sucked into the intake ports. When they age harden, oil seeps past & gets consumed. All the time. The oil burn is very slight when the engine runs down the road, but it is happening. They are cheap rubber/viton seals for the valve stems, the cost is all in the labor to pull the old & install the fresh ones.
The few times I have resorted to changing valve seals, the oil consumption drops to near zero after the seal swap, this is on older engines with
175k miles and beyond, with high oil usage, decent power output & acceptable fuel mileage for the engine displacement.
correction: I didn't mean to say junk it. I meant, when you get tired of filling it with oil, maybe it's time to buy something newer. And save your money al these additives won't fix a worn out engine.There is nothing you can or should do. I would buy the cheapest oil I could and add more as necessary. There's no "hope in a can" that will fix this. Junk it when you can.
My 2002 Ford F-150 was using a quart of Castrol every 1000 miles.
I switched over to Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W20 and have never had to add oil since.
5,000 miles now between changes.
Just a suggestion.
Re the engine idle, maybe you should check for fouled plugs.My sister lives in Austin area... Bee Cave to be exact. I plan on seeing her for Christmas hopefully.
I think I'm going to try a 15W-xx eve though I've been hesitate on going thicker because it idled worse with all the thick additives in it... granted it was probably too much of the goop.
But after using Seafoam in the crankcase and a fresh oil change it idles nice after driving 15-20 minutes.
So maybe... just a maybe... I'm losing most of the oil when it's cold and the 15W-xx may help with that. The truck has more 5-10 mile trips than any car should. Always worked close to home and we generally use it for every thing.
To put that last comment in context, my wife's 99 jeep Cherokee only has 105k.
I think I'm liking that suggestion me and more. Thanks for replying.
A lot of short trips.Oil life monitor came on around 3k miles average? Sounds like a lot of short trips... or did it sit for long periods? Either way is not good.
You're in DFW?I can install a Brand New 380hp 6.0L for around $8,000.....Turn Key with Tuning. 3 year 100K warranty.
Rebuilding your existing 5.3L will run @ $6,000. 3 year 100K warranty.
Buying a low mileage Gen IV 5.3L, Converting it to 24X/1X from 58X/4X, New Rod/Main/Rings/Timing Set/Oil Pump/Valve Seals/Lifters/Gaskets & a used LM7 camshaft will run about the same @ $6,000. 3 year Warranty on workmanship.
I have a used LM7 out of a 2005 Suburban with 108K, Piston/Ring soak with GM Top Engine Cleaner, New Valve Seals & [email protected] $3,500 Turn Key. 2 year 24,000 on workmanship.