How bad for your engine is burning oil?

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Dec 28, 2025
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My truck burns a lot of oil(a quart every 600 miles roughly.) Likely bad valve stem seals which are a major pain to replace. I don’t mind feeding it oil, but I’m curious how bad this is for the engine. Does it put significantly more wear on the valves?

Given that Valvoline Restore and Protect won’t help with shot 22 year old seals, is there anything else I can run to help it? Maybe an oil with a higher flashpoint or something.
 
If they're that hard to replace, you just need a crate engine ;)

You could try thicker oil, High Mileage oil, stop leak, or Motor Honey :unsure:
 
Carbon buildup on the piston can be a concern when it starts to contaminate ring lands. Stuck compression rings will lead to diminishing performance. Your catalytic converter won't appreciate it much either.
 
Wife's runnin a 23yr old Toyota daily driver with bad valve stem seals. Use to smoke pretty good at start up, then go away. Started using ATP-205 in it. No more smoke after a week. I also was concerned about the CAT & 02 sensors. It worked for me anyway FWIW.
 
My truck burns a lot of oil(a quart every 600 miles roughly.) Likely bad valve stem seals which are a major pain to replace. I don’t mind feeding it oil, but I’m curious how bad this is for the engine. Does it put significantly more wear on the valves?

Given that Valvoline Restore and Protect won’t help with shot 22 year old seals, is there anything else I can run to help it? Maybe an oil with a higher flashpoint or something.
What model year truck?
How many miles on it?
What viscosity grade motor oil does the owners manual specify?
Which oil and viscosity grade are you using?
Have you checked, cleaned, and/or replaced the PVC?
 
What model year truck?
How many miles on it?
What viscosity grade motor oil does the owners manual specify?
Which oil and viscosity grade are you using?
Have you checked, cleaned, and/or replaced the PVC?
2004 dodge Dakota 3.7L
190000 miles
5W-30 recommended
Using Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage 5w30
PCV has been replaced with an OEM unit, didn’t help much
 
2004 dodge Dakota 3.7L
190000 miles
5W-30 recommended
Using Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage 5w30
PCV has been replaced with an OEM unit, didn’t help much
If it's constantly burning oil, you may just have stuck oil control rings on the pistons. Valvoline Restore and Protect may clean the pistons up & get them free, or a good piston soak may work. If you're sure it's the stem seals, try the ATP-205.
 
My truck burns a lot of oil(a quart every 600 miles roughly.) Likely bad valve stem seals which are a major pain to replace. I don’t mind feeding it oil, but I’m curious how bad this is for the engine. Does it put significantly more wear on the valves?

Given that Valvoline Restore and Protect won’t help with shot 22 year old seals, is there anything else I can run to help it? Maybe an oil with a higher flashpoint or something.
There’s a flat rate trick to doing valve stem seals if you’re interested in fixing it? Don’t have to remove the heads.
 
2004 dodge Dakota 3.7L
190000 miles
5W-30 recommended
Using Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage 5w30
PCV has been replaced with an OEM unit, didn’t help much
On some cars (Honda CRV 2.4L for example) the PCV connects to a crankcase breather hose that is prone to shriveling, kinking, or clogging, which blocks crankcase breathing and results in oil burning.

On other cars (Buick 3800 for example) there is no crankcase breather hose.

On other cars (Hyundai 1.6L for example) there is a crankcase breather hose, but it's not prone to failure.

So on your truck, does the PCV connect to a crankcase breather hose? If so, is the hose in good working order?

I suggest trying each of these oils for 1 OCI:
5w30 Amsoil High Mileage Full Synthetic
5w30 Maxlife Extended Protection High Mileage Full Synthetic
5w30 Havoline ProDS Lifelong High Mileage Full Synthetic
5w30 Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic

I like those ^ 4 because their full op temp 100KV (100C, 212F) viscosity is higher than other brands of High Mileage Full Synthetic oils. VOAs I've read are reporting 11.1 cSt @ 100KV. That's a good high/healthy viscosity at op temp which reduces consumption. Those 4 also have excellent additive packages. The 3 are the best quality, IMO. The 3rd & 4th have best prices.

If none of those ^ reduce oil consumption enough, then try a High Mileage synthetic blend because I have found High Mileage Syn Blend to leak less than full syn. In order from thinnest to thickest at full op temp:
5w30 Maxlife Blend (syn blend) (thinnest of these 3. Probably best lubrication of these 3) (I've found it helpful for reducing leaking or burning).
5w30 Quaker State High Mileage (syn blend) (good medium choice among High Mileage syn blend oils)
5w30 Pennzoil High Mileage (syn blend) (very thick for its grade. Not ideal for cold starts in cold weather, but will reduce leaking or burning).

For clapped out engines that still leak or burn too much oil even when using a High Mileage syn blend, the last resort is a conventional High Mileage oil. A High Mileage conventional oil won't lubricate as well, but it sure is good at reducing oil consumption IME.
10w30 Maxlife Blend is mostly conventional oil. There's very little (if any) group 3 synthetic in it.
10W30 Quaker State High Mileage is fully conventional oil. It's thicker than 10w30 Maxlife Blend.
10w30 Pennzoil High Mileage is fully conventional oil. It's very thick for it's 10w30 grade. Not ideal lubrication during winter cold starts, but it's unlikely to leak or burn at full op temp.

A 10w40 High Mileage oil is another weapon of last resort for slowing or stopping consumption. Such as Maxlife Blend 10w40. 5w30 Pennzoil High Mileage (conv) is so thick that it's almost a 10w40.

Blue Devil oil stop leak, and especially ATP205, do reduce or stop leaks, but they also compromise lubrication and increase wear while they're in the oil. See Project Farm video about testing these products.

I think oil choice is a safer way to reduce leaks and IME can be effective. I've never had to progress thicker than 5w30 Maxlife Blend to signifigantly reduce leaking or burning.
 
I've never tried this, but I wonder if using a low SAPS oil (such as Mobil 1 ESP) might be a good way to protect a catalytic converter from an oil burning engine? Also, Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 & 5w30 are thick enough at full op temp to reduce consumption. So maybe a double win?
 
What’s that?
Warning: This flat rate trick is not for amateurs….

Remove valve covers.
Remove spark plugs.
Remove rocker arms.
Put first cylinder at BDC.
Using compressed air and a compression gauge attachment screwed into spark plug hole fill the cylinder with compressed air and leave compressor running to keep cylinder pressurized.
Remove valve springs and keepers from the pressurized cylinder.
Valves will not fall into the pressurized cylinder.
Replaced valve stem seals as normal.
Reinstall valve springs and keepers.
Repeat each of these steps on the next cylinder.


Edit: This was for non overhead cam engines. You might be out of luck. Sorry
 
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I remember one auto manufacturer specified that burning up to one quart oil every 700 miles was acceptable. After that, a repair or engine rebuild was in order.
 
Warning: This flat rate trick is not for amateurs….

Remove valve covers.
Remove spark plugs.
Remove rocker arms.
Put first cylinder at BDC.
Using compressed air and a compression gauge attachment screwed into spark plug hole fill the cylinder with compressed air and leave compressor running to keep cylinder pressurized.
Remove valve springs and keepers from the pressurized cylinder.
Valves will not fall into the pressurized cylinder.
Replaced valve stem seals as normal.
Reinstall valve springs and keepers.
Repeat each of these steps on the next cylinder.


Edit: This was for non overhead cam engines. You might be out of luck. Sorry
Thanks. I’ve seen someone do that on this truck but it still looks like more work than continuing to add oil, if my valves are not going to explode….
 
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Warning: This flat rate trick is not for amateurs….

Remove valve covers.
Remove spark plugs.
Remove rocker arms.
Edit: This was for non overhead cam engines. You might be out of luck. Sorry
This will work with many SOHCs, as the cams aren't directly on top of the valves. IE there are still rocker arms to transfer motion.

Did this with a Saturn SOHC when I knew very little about cars. The job went fine but the diagnosis was incorrect-- rings were clogged (as they all are.)
 
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Try Restore and Protect - you have nothing to loose.

If it doesn't help after a couple cycles switch to a 40 weight. The cheapest one you can find.

If it was going to clog up your cats it likely already has. What do your fuel trims look like? No codes?
 
Try Restore and Protect - you have nothing to loose.

If it doesn't help after a couple cycles switch to a 40 weight. The cheapest one you can find.

If it was going to clog up your cats it likely already has. What do your fuel trims look like? No codes?
Yep, there's no reason that I can think of to skip Valvoline Restore and Protect. I'd consider that step one and it's as easy as an oil change.
 
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