Oil burning journey 2006 CR-V with 176k mi

Aside from your unnecessary use of bad language, the '12 Accord K24 I passed along to my older son five years ago has been on 0W-20 and IOLM drains for its entire life and is now at 150K.
Guess how much oil it uses?
How 'bout none.
Heard it started up today and it was as smooth and quiet as when I brought it home from Honda East in November 2012.

Cool story, here in the free world we are allowed to use xW-30 oils ;)
Here is the (real) OEM spec. for Accord 2012.
Pre 2010 as I was talking about earlier, 5W40 is also on allowed viscosities.

Skärmklipp.PNG
 
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It’s well known the K24 can use anything from 20 weight to 40 weight in most climates. I think this topic can rest. I’m using 30 right now because I don’t want to change this variable as I track consumption. Also it does get cold in the winter where I live.
 
Aside from your unnecessary use of bad language, the '12 Accord K24 I passed along to my older son five years ago has been on 0W-20 and IOLM drains for its entire life and is now at 150K.
Guess how much oil it uses?
How 'bout none.
Heard it started up today and it was as smooth and quiet as when I brought it home from Honda East in November 2012.
And that is saying alot because that is the start of the year, that has the VTC actuator rattle problems.
 
And that is saying alot because that is the start of the year, that has the VTC actuator rattle problems.
I've heard of that issue and was pleased to hear the thing start up smooth and quiet, although the K24 is not as smooth or as refined as the old F22 or 23 engines we had in earlier Accords, especially approaching redline.
On the plus side, there is no timing belt to be concerned about.
 
As I noted, the PCV was replaced. It could be intake valve guide or stem seal, and I have some Seafoam spray-in intake treatment I may test out if the piston soak/HPL oil test fails. I am focused on treating rings right now so that if any reduction in consumption occurs, I’ll have a good idea it was the rings. Given the particles in the filter, I suspect they may be de-coking. We’ll see.

Unfortunately I don’t know the history of the car for its first 60k mi. I have some service records but don’t know how it was broken in. I’m also a fan of hard break-in and after warming up did a good onramp run for my brand new Tacoma when I bought it. This newer vehicle is why I already have the 0w30 oil stash. I’m just using some of the oil in the old CR-V that I had already purchased for my other vehicle.

I replaced the plugs 5/14/21 at about 170k with NGK iridium. Here’s a pic of one of the old plugs. As far as I recall, they all looked like this, I didn’t note much variation.

View attachment 176407
Sounds like a good plan, I always believe in the least intrusive route first. I build a lot of engines and the first 50 mile ring seat procedure works every time.
Keep us posted on the results.....if it continues to use oil I would use an ESP formula of you hadn't already planned on it.
GOOD LUCK!!!
 
I realize you're doing a specific plan and that's fine - not trying to change minds here. I want to add another data point for others who find this thread in the future.

2005 CR-V - 306,000km. Using anything from 0w20 to 10w30 it seems to use about a quart every 1K to 2K. When I switched to using 5w40 Supertech Euro it takes approx 4K to go through the same amount. Has been the same since I got it at around 160K.
 
I’m now considering going thicker, if only to prevent burning through expensive HPL. If I mix 2.5qt of HPL 5w40 with the 0w30 I already have to total 4.4qt, I could get two changes out of the 6qts of the 5w40 with 1qt left over for top offs.

This mix would come out to 12.5 cst at 100c, right at the boundary between 30 and 40. I like that the numbers work out…
 
Research Dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO). Basically you add some to the oil and let the engine idel for 30-60 minutes. Then change the oil and filter using cheap 20W50 oil and a good filter. Run the engine again for 16 minutes. Change the oil and filter using cheap 20W50 oil and a good filter, again. Repeat until the oil comes out of the engine relatively clean. Drain the engine and refill wit the appropriate oil and a new filter.

DMSO, when heated, becomes a very strong cleaner. The process above the DMSO dissolves the varnish and other contaminants. It also frees up gunked up oil control rings.
For anyone considering this method: WEAR GLOVES and MASK. Also DMSO crystalizes at room temperature, so gotta keep it hot to use. It also strips the paint off of oil pans and valve covers. So make sure you remove and strip the paint yourself, before using DMSO. Because if DMSO strips it - it's going to plug the oil pickup and give oil starvation. Bye engine.
DMSO is a great tool, but requires a huge amount of respect, and a little bit of knowledge on working with it, as well as tons of safety precautions. Do it outside, the smell is in unbearable. But it does work and makes engines like new inside. Won't re-hone your cylinders or add material to piston rings or bearings. But as far as dirt/carbon/sludge removal - they stand no chance against DMSO.
 
I've heard of that issue and was pleased to hear the thing start up smooth and quiet, although the K24 is not as smooth or as refined as the old F22 or 23 engines we had in earlier Accords, especially approaching redline.
On the plus side, there is no timing belt to be concerned about.
As an owner of a daily driven F22 - she don't like redline... at all.. it makes me very nervous, and the words that come to mind are far from "refined"...
 
I realize you're doing a specific plan and that's fine - not trying to change minds here. I want to add another data point for others who find this thread in the future.

2005 CR-V - 306,000km. Using anything from 0w20 to 10w30 it seems to use about a quart every 1K to 2K. When I switched to using 5w40 Supertech Euro it takes approx 4K to go through the same amount. Has been the same since I got it at around 160K.
Over the years many K-series owners report the same thing: this series of engines just does better with a 40-grade. Wear, oil consumption, etc.
 
I’m now considering going thicker, if only to prevent burning through expensive HPL. If I mix 2.5qt of HPL 5w40 with the 0w30 I already have to total 4.4qt, I could get two changes out of the 6qts of the 5w40 with 1qt left over for top offs.

This mix would come out to 12.5 cst at 100c, right at the boundary between 30 and 40. I like that the numbers work out…
@goingplaces…

FYI, since you’re trying to blend to a specific viscosity.

I have a K24a8 in my 2006 accord. Below is a picture of my Honda factory service manual. My oil change amount is 4.4qt like yours. But total oil qty is 5.6qt. I assume it is the same or similar for your K24.

IMG_2150.jpeg
 
@goingplaces…

FYI, since you’re trying to blend to a specific viscosity.

I have a K24a8 in my 2006 accord. Below is a picture of my Honda factory service manual. My oil change amount is 4.4qt like yours. But total oil qty is 5.6qt. I assume it is the same or similar for your K24.

View attachment 178630
Good point, thanks. I’m not shooting for a specific viscosity so much as trying to make the all numbers work out well. I’d like to keep the next two changes more or less equal in viscosity just to control variables.

In this case I’d really end up with 11.9 cst with 2.5qt of 5w40. Bumping up to 3qt would yield 12.3 cst.
 
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