Oil and Fuel Recomendations for 2018 VW Golf R

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Which oil should I run and how often should I change it? Which fuel do you trust most in southern California? I don't know much about lubrication and this is the first car with which I've wanted to take these questions more 'seriously.'

1. 2018 VW Golf R DSG 7spd automatic. VW's 2.0 TSI (EA888 Gen3) engine, an inline 4 cylinder 2 liter turbo charged direct injected motor

2. My Owner's Manual is for the 2018 Golf, Golf GTI, and Golf R. Manual says:
-Viscosity grades: SAE 5W-40; SAE 5W-30
-Oil Spec: VW 502 00; VW 503 00; VW 504 00 (I don't know how similar/different these are, I'm having trouble finding more information about the specs. Is it supposed to be obvious which one to put in the Golf R or will they all really work equally well?)
-Oil Capacity: about 6 quarts (5.7 liters)
-If no oil matching above spec is available and you need to top off you may add no more than 1/2 quart (0.5 liter) of ACEA A3 spec in 5W-40 or 5W-30
-Don't use any oil additives or lubricants

-The oil reservoir cap in the engine bay says "recommended empfohlen Castrol" Quick search brings back this https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4235130/EDGE_Professional_LL_IV_FE_0W- But it seems Castrol and VAG collaborated on lighter viscosity oils, not the 5W-30/5W-40 recommended...

-Interestingly I can't find an explicit oil change interval recommendation in any of the literature that came with the vehicle. Oil changes are not listed under Time-dependent maintenance items in the warranty and maintenance booklet, which the manual references for information on oil change intervals. Implicitly, the warranty and maintenance booklet lists service work to be completed at 10k mile intervals and oil changes are included in these lists. Because of references to sunroofs and passats I think this is a generic service schedule for all VWs, but it appears the recommendation is 10k miles between oil changes...

3. Los Angeles

4. I try to drive economically most of the time, but I do believe in merging at the speed of traffic. Most aggressive driving is probably merging onto the 110 freeway from those stop signs they put a few dozen feet away from the gore points. Second to that is accelerating from a stop to merge into 40mph traffic to go around someone waiting to make a left turn. On the freeway I'll cruise at the speed of traffic up to 75-80mph.

5. Regardless of where I'm going I would describe most trips as a little bit of city driving, some varying length of highway driving, then a little bit of city driving to my destination. 1-5 miles on the streets and 20ish miles freeway most of the time now. I do get stuck in traffic so freeway or streets its a lot of stop and go, and I will take the streets to switch it up sometimes. I also plan on the occasional few hundred mile trip, hopefully more often in the future but right now maybe 6-12 times a year (Joshua Tree is 130 miles, the Sierras 215 miles, San Francisco 470 miles, San Diego 160 miles, to give an idea of how far and in what climate conditions I drive) I can avoid most short trips by using another vehicle, but there will be many times that I have to run short errands. The more often I make shorter trips the more frequently I should change my oil right? Stop and go => more frequent changes? Colder weather and dusty/poor air quality is tougher on oil?

6. No known issues. Some MKVII Golf Rs have experienced a rough idle and misfires at start up. A software fix was released but no service bulletin for all vehicles to get upgraded and at least one person has had the misfires re-occur post update (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.ph...amp;p=110918761). Previous generations of my EA888 engine are known for carbon build up on intake valves and VW has a fuel additive G001 780 M3 (actually found a thread with its ingredients list on this forum: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4197203/Re:_VW_multipurpose_fuel_addit). Would it be a good idea to use this additive regularly or should I avoid mixing stuff into my gas? I'm also considering Italian tune ups prior to oil changes.

Also it seems only gas with ethanol is available here, so my basic strategy of simply avoiding ethanol doesn't work. Any gasoline recommendations for southern California? Most stations around me are shells, arcos, and chevrons, so probably just gonna have to choose one of those to prefer when possible. Shell is advertising 9x more detergents in their premium fuel and while that may be awesome for port injected vehicles I can't help but think all that is just going to contribute more weird combustion by-products which will just add to blow-by/make what blow-by does occur more detrimental and in general increase carbon build up problems in my direct injected engine.

This thread, https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4020408/4, is for recommendations for the 2016 Golf R, same engine, but in a much colder climate driving shorter distances. Some people recommended a 0W-40 oil, that's not good advice for me is it?

Thanks for your opinions and help!
 
It sounds like you have done your research and you care enough about the car to take care of it. Stay with a 5W40 VW504.00 synthetic oil and change at 5000-7000 intervals and you'll be just fine. I assume its under factory warranty for awhile so be sure you use the correct oil and if you do it yourself, document it!

Any of the quality syn 5W40's will work just fine in your Golf, and even though I hate Mobil 1 oils, the M1 0W40 is still a top notch syn for European cars and will suit your golf very well, I think it even carries the 502/503/504 cert.
 
Originally Posted By: jakeyjohn1
Which oil should I run and how often should I change it? Which fuel do you trust most in southern California? I don't know much about lubrication and this is the first car with which I've wanted to take these questions more 'seriously.'

Some people recommended a 0W-40 oil, that's not good advice for me is it?


5w40 will be fine for your location. Choose one that meets the specs as mentioned in your owner's manual. Use a top tier fuel. That way the car benefits from the extra detergents in it.


 
Check under the hood: there will be a sticker that specifies which spec oil to use. Most likely VW502, not VW504. Their manuals aren't always specific enough. Then go with any oil that meets the spec. I've had the best luck with Castrol 0w40, with Pennzoil 0w40 a close second.
 
Castrol Edge 0W40!
Available in Wal mart for $27 for 5qt jug.
What matters is VW 502.00 spec. Forget grade like 5W40 or 5W30. What matters is that oil says VW 502.00 or VW 504.00/507.00 (avoid 504/507 for now since that is oil for ultra low sulfur gas, and I have no idea why VW recommends that specification. STick to VW502.00).
VW is notorious for confusing oil recommendations. Since you are not that familiar with Euro specifications, just buy Castrol Edge 0W40 in Wal Mart. Also, like someone said, you have Mobil1 0W40 FS and Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W40 available, but I would give advantage to Castrol in this case for that application.
After you change oil, spend some time to learn differences between VW 502.00 and 504.00/507.00 specifications. There are numerous threads on that topic.
Also, there is subforum for Euro oils where your question actually belongs.
 
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Baja 05 (Dale) said it well. I'm using Pennzoil Euro 0w-40 presently in my Golf. Not an "R" but the mighty 2.5! Previously ran Castrol 0w-40. I'd change the oil 2x a yr. Once a yr. the VW dealer changes the oil/filter that I bring in for $24. Does the state inspection ($16 in Va.) for free even though I bought the car from a different dealer. Then I change the oil 6 months later and usually not change the filter. Oil/filters w/the rebates and Advance Auto motor oil specials w/filters do not cost much at all. You should be fine w/any top tier gas station. Look for a newer station which is used by many customers. Enjoy your VW!
 
I would choose a motul, mobil, redline, amsoil or pennzoil up euro 5-40 that falls within the specs your manufacturer calls for. Fuel wise id go with shell 92, time and time again it does extremely well and better than chevron 94. Its more stable.
 
Originally Posted By: subzerospeed
I would choose a motul, mobil, redline, amsoil or pennzoil up euro 5-40 that falls within the specs your manufacturer calls for. Fuel wise id go with shell 92, time and time again it does extremely well and better than chevron 94. Its more stable.

You Canadians and your readily available 94 and 97 octane
08.gif

Best I can do is non E92. Used to have some 105(?) near the Portland International Raceway, but at 6/gallon, and that was years ago, who knows how much it is now, if still around.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Castrol Edge 0W40! . . . What matters is VW 502.00 spec (emphasis added.). Forget grades . . . 5W40 or 5W30. What matters is that oil says VW 502.00 or VW 504.00/507.00 . . . Stick to VW 502.00. . . .

FWIW, I concur with edyvw's recommendation regarding Castrol Edge 0W-40. IMHO, it is state of the art, and the perfect oil for your application.
 
Originally Posted By: racin4ds
It sounds like you have done your research and you care enough about the car to take care of it. Stay with a 5W40 VW504.00 synthetic oil and change at 5000-7000 intervals and you'll be just fine. I assume its under factory warranty for awhile so be sure you use the correct oil and if you do it yourself, document it!

Any of the quality syn 5W40's will work just fine in your Golf, and even though I hate Mobil 1 oils, the M1 0W40 is still a top notch syn for European cars and will suit your golf very well, I think it even carries the 502/503/504 cert.


504.00 is 5w30 only. There is no 5w40 that has 504 cert.

Mobil 1 0w40 has 502.00 and (should still have) 503.01, but not 504. Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 has 504/507 certification.

----------------------------------
Back to the OP. Don't worry about E10 fuel. Worry more about Top Tier, to help keep the injectors cleaner, to prevent the spray pattern from getting messed up causing improper combustion, leading to deposits that will collect on the valves.

Also, do the occasional "Italian tune-up", the modified for FSI method, that's on VW's patent. Drive at 3000 rpms (pick the gear that supports it, while obeying(ish) the speed limit) or more for around 30 minutes. Best to do it early morning or late night, when traffic on the 405 will allow you do to it.
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Originally Posted By: subzerospeed
I would choose a motul, mobil, redline, amsoil or pennzoil up euro 5-40 that falls within the specs your manufacturer calls for. Fuel wise id go with shell 92, time and time again it does extremely well and better than chevron 94. Its more stable.

You Canadians and your readily available 94 and 97 octane
08.gif

Best I can do is non E92. Used to have some 105(?) near the Portland International Raceway, but at 6/gallon, and that was years ago, who knows how much it is now, if still around.


Ya, but we pay nearly $6/gallon for 94.
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Originally Posted By: subzerospeed
I would choose a motul, mobil, redline, amsoil or pennzoil up euro 5-40 that falls within the specs your manufacturer calls for. Fuel wise id go with shell 92, time and time again it does extremely well and better than chevron 94. Its more stable.

You Canadians and your readily available 94 and 97 octane
08.gif

Best I can do is non E92. Used to have some 105(?) near the Portland International Raceway, but at 6/gallon, and that was years ago, who knows how much it is now, if still around.

I found a place near the MA/NH border between 93 and 3/Everett Turnpike that had 100 octane unleaded racing gas.
$10/gallon as of about two years ago!
 
I'm still here! Thank you for all your responses! I haven't been able to finish following through on all the info posted in here.

Thank you edyvw! I completely overlooked the European and Import Motor Oils section after finding the oil recommendation sticky in the passenger motor oil section and have found a ton of great info in there!

I found lurbizol's relative performance tool and am still trying to figure out if higher numbers are better or worse and if its consistent with all categories. A3/B4 scores lower in aftertreatment than C3 as C3 show %P and %S limits but VW 502 scores lower than VW 504 and VW 504 has no %P or %S specification.

motech is right about a sticker in the engine compartment. It says VW 502 00, VW 504 00. Since VAG has collaborated on Castrol Edge I've been looking at those oils and it seems when Castrol Edge meets VW 504 it also meats ACEA C3. Likewise the Castrol Edge VW 502 oils meet ACEA A3/B4. Based on some of the first things I've read it seems VW 504 00/ ACEA C3 is the 'better' standard so I am leaning towards that, but I'm still reading.

I still havn't found an official source of information on the VW oil specs nor the ACEA.

While I appreciate the numerous recommendations for a 0W40 oil, I feel awkward going outside the manufacturers recommendation. Since 0W40 also passes at the specifications for 5W40 does it also technically meet VW's recommendation of 5W30 or 5W40? Since they have the same hot characteristics I don't have to worry about it being too thin?

If the general consensus is more detergents are better than I will try to use Shell premium. I will also use that VW additive.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
I found a place near the MA/NH border between 93 and 3/Everett Turnpike that had 100 octane unleaded racing gas.
$10/gallon as of about two years ago!


That's what the Sunoco near here gets for their 100 octane unleaded as well.
The Omega corn fuel station across the street from that Sunoco got ~$8.50/gallon for their E98 racing fuel when they were still in business.
I used to mix 3 gallons of their E85 with 9.5 gallons of Shell V-Power during the summer for a little extra anti-knock/anti-LSPI 'headroom' protection (tuned 1.6 EcoBoost).
Now that they went under, the nearest E85 pump to me is about 50 miles ONE WAY.
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
504.00 is 5w30 only.


And 0W-30.

Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Mobil 1 0w40 has 502.00 and (should still have) 503.01, but not 504.


503.01 has been obsolete for 18 years - did you mean 501.01?
 
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