octane booster hype?

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sasilverbullet

sasilverbullet

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I've searched the archives here and read so much on the interweb my head is hurting!

Car is my 1970 Lincoln Mk III - 460cu.in. running stock 10.5 compression. Engine is completely stock and in good order. I run premium along with the redline lead substitute.

I still have some pinging I want to get rid of - I'm thinking of the "104 boost" product.

Any recommendations guys? Should I use that? Can you recommend another?

Thanks!
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I used to use (note the past tense) 104+ Octane Boost in my '68 Buick Gran Sport thinking it would do as claimed, but it doesn't do squat. Cruds up the plugs and didn't help with pinging at all, unless I retard the timing. Save your money.
 
Is the lead substitute an octane booster, or just to prevent VSR?

From what have learned Vale Seat Recession is now considered a Non issue on a road car.
Save your money.

When does the pinging occur?
On heavy acceleration. Reduce the ignition advance.

You may find that The pinging is CAUSED by combustion chamber deposits!
In which case NOT using the Lead substitute or Booster many (ironically) make the pinging go away.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Is the lead substitute an octane booster, or just to prevent VSR?

From what have learned Vale Seat Recession is now considered a Non issue on a road car.
Save your money.

When does the pinging occur?
On heavy acceleration. Reduce the ignition advance.

You may find that The pinging is CAUSED by combustion chamber deposits!
In which case NOT using the Lead substitute or Booster many (ironically) make the pinging go away.


I use the lead substitute as a VSR. I've not heard that's a non-issue now.

Pinging occurs on LIGHT acceleration at highway speeds. Pinging goes away when I stomp on the gas.

I've run SeaFoam thru the carb, and 1/2 can in the gas.
 
"I use the lead substitute as a VSR. I've not heard that's a non-issue now."

There was a Huge amount of Hype about this when they started phasing out Leaded gas in the U.K. in the 90's. it was thought that owners of old British cars would HAVE to fit special Valve seats and/or Valves or suffer VSR
Questions were raised in Parliament!
Many tests were done to PROVE that VSR would occur.
Many Lead substitute products were Hyped.
Businesses set up to convert cyl heads.

Yes, VSR DID occur!

A VSR prone engine (BMC 1275 A series) was run for (I think) 10 hours at full throttle at 5K rpm, and there was measurable VSR

However similar tests later showed that no VSR occurred, even with prolonged tests, at variable loads or under 4K rpm.

I have run a Tuned, High compression Triumph for over 20 years.
I drive the car hard when I use it.
After reading all the reports, when building the engine I decided not to install hardened valve seats*
In 25k miles I have no measurable VSR


*there was a reason for this, but it's not really relevant in this case.
 
I've heard good stuff about the 104 product...so you are using Premium (that's top tier right, not Mid grade? Lol...I know every jurisdiction has their own levels...here it's Regular, Mid grade, and Premium).

But yea....if you are running Premium (not the mid grade, but the next level up) and still pinging, it could be carbon build up that you need to clean up....top end cleaning of sorts....

That is, if you are all tuned/timed up right, and the car otherwise runs fine..... more than likely it's carbon causing the pinging....


Is that vehicle speced for the higher octane though? I know lots of people think high octane = better clean....but not always the case, actually can be the OPPOSITE if the engine is not tuned right, to burn the fuel that it sends through, the unburned fuel turns to carbon....higher octane = higher tempoerature to burn....
 
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Is your ignition timing accurate?
Very often with an old, Points ignition, there will be marked ignition scatter.
I have seen scatter cover over 10 degrees!!
Once pinging starts through a few inaccurate sparks, it can often cause a Hot Spot and then the preigniton will continue.

Often the best way around this is to convert to electronic ignition like Petronix.
 
Originally Posted By: ahoier
I've heard good stuff about the 104 product...so you are using Premium (that's top tier right, not Mid grade? Lol...I know every jurisdiction has their own levels...here it's Regular, Mid grade, and Premium).

But yea....if you are running Premium (not the mid grade, but the next level up) and still pinging, it could be carbon build up that you need to clean up....top end cleaning of sorts....

That is, if you are all tuned/timed up right, and the car otherwise runs fine..... more than likely it's carbon causing the pinging....


Is that vehicle speced for the higher octane though? I know lots of people think high octane = better clean....but not always the case, actually can be the OPPOSITE if the engine is not tuned right, to burn the fuel that it sends through, the unburned fuel turns to carbon....higher octane = higher tempoerature to burn....


It's spec'd for premium. Yes, it's all tuned up. I've already ran 1/2 can of Sea Foam.

From the comments here - I'm going to take it out on the highway and tweak the timing to see it the pinging will disappear. If not, I'll try a bottle of 104 or Lucas.
 
My 63 survivor Galaxie 427 runs a lot better on 93 octane gas with the Lucas Octane Booster... The 104 never did much for me.

This was recommended by a friend that owns over 50 classic/muscle cars with a majority of them all survivors with high compression engines. If he does not run 100 octane fuel because of availabilty issues, then he adds Lucas Octane Booster to 93 octane gas. It does raise the octane and has a cylinder lubricant...
 
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I might be mistaken, because it's been a long time since I worked on a distributor and didn't understand them all that well at the time, but:

Ping at cruising RPM would suggest that full vacuum advance is too much for the fuel/compression combination.

I would try a fuel system cleaner first--a lot of guys on here with carburetors seem to like FP 60/Fuel Power. That is used every tank, and can also be increased for a "shock" dose." The cost of a few fillups worth of octane boost should get you a gallon. Red Line is also a strong cleaner.

Other possibilities are to

1) make sure there are no vacuum leaks
2) try plugs that are one step colder if they'll work without fouling
3) verify total advance to make sure the vacuum advance is working right
4) install an adjustable vacuum advance
5) mix in 2-3 gallons of 100 octane unleaded race gas if that still exists and is available in your area. I think 76 used to sell it.

Otherwise, considering your location, make sure your cooling system is in top shape.

Good luck, and enjoy that beast.
 
Another thread just reminded me about water decarbonization. This car would be a perfect candidate, and the price is right. Just get it hot, take off the air cleaner, and use a spray bottle to mist water down the carb while you work the throttle linkage with the other hand.
 
I use to use 104 25 years ago when I drag raced. I felt it worked for me.

Now I think it is watered down.

When the package says it boosts octane 2 points, it doesn't mean 2 numbers (90 to 92), it means 0.2 (90 to 90.2).

0.2 boost is useless.

I tried Klotz octane booster and Klotz Hitrate. Both work great; Both are expensive.
 
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