But, is Pennzoil now considered to be the cream of the crop among dino's? Was Havoline, but no more talk about it since the Deposit Shield came out. To me, Castrol GTX seems to have the edge with that boat load of calcuim..but I'm not sure.
Nobody has been comparing one dino to another
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All three are excellent dino oils. Which one is 'better'? I doubt any of them is better than the other. Technology has closed the gap between the different name brands that selecting a 'better' oil is a matter of personal brand loyalty/favoritism than quality.
I've always liked Valvoline and Quaker State, but I also have some Mobil Clean 5000 sitting around, along with some Maxlife Synthetic Blend, and other various oils. I personally think that any name brand would be good. I've heard great things about Castrol GTX as well.
I suspect some guys will shy away from it now that they've made it so much thinner. I like to run oils that are at their thickest end of their viscosity range; that's why I like HM oils. When Maxlife came out with their new thicker formula, I was thrilled.
I've been thinking about trying the HM version of GTX.
Most of us know here, that with most engines, you can run anything on the shelf and get a boat load of miles before a failure. When choosing a dino, I might take into consideration add-packs... I liked that the ole havoline was touted to have high levels of moly, and was always reasonably priced (especially at walmart)... I feel the new "shield" version of havoline was just a way for them to have some advertising competition with GTX, while looking like a "justified" rise in price...
Most engines wouldn't care if you were using Supertech or Clean 5000.
If I really wanted to know for sure, I would run a few equal mile cycles on different oils and do UOAs, then just go with whatever had the best TBN remaining, lowest wear numbers, stayed in grade, etc etc...
I have a picky isuzu engine, it likes GC. It's one of the FEW engines out there, that actually give noticeable feedback depending on the oil that's in there (mostly in how loud it ticks, lol)
Most engines wouldn't care if you were using Supertech or Clean 5000.
If I really wanted to know for sure, I would run a few equal mile cycles on different oils and do UOAs, then just go with whatever had the best TBN remaining, lowest wear numbers, stayed in grade, etc etc...
I have a picky isuzu engine, it likes GC. It's one of the FEW engines out there, that actually give noticeable feedback depending on the oil that's in there (mostly in how loud it ticks, lol)
That's a good way of going about choosing an oil, but sometimes by the time you come around to the one oil you like the best, they go and change the formula.
that's very true- and as we all know, UOAs don't tell the whole story, they should be used as a guideline.
Good points/statements.
Some arguements would be oil consumptions/shear thinning that leads to consumption of some oils 1k or so into the interval, where other's don't appear to have such a problem. Any info?
FWIW: I topped-up with some "meets SM requirments" Citgo 5w30 conventional in a case filled with Castrol HM 5w30 and a little M1 5w-20, and 500 or so miles later found what I thought was consumption - though having a rear main leak doesn't help support such deduction as increase losses while driving could have occurred even though the drop or two oil spot under the car hasn't, on top of the fact that the case fill was a mix of different oils.
Some arguements would be oil consumptions/shear thinning that leads to consumption of some oils 1k or so into the interval, where other's don't appear to have such a problem. Any info?
FWIW: I topped-up with some "meets SM requirments" Citgo 5w30 conventional in a case filled with Castrol HM 5w30 and a little M1 5w-20, and 500 or so miles later found what I thought was consumption - though having a rear main leak doesn't help support such deduction as increase losses while driving could have occurred even though the drop or two oil spot under the car hasn't, on top of the fact that the case fill was a mix of different oils.
Here! Here! And a-men! Havoline was once the deal among dinos. Now it's just another dino.
Well, with most dino-users, the 3K OCI renders the point rather moot. What's the point even considering the issue when any name brand (or not) SM/GF4-rated dino is good to a 5K (and beyond) interval, and then folks dump it and the filter at 3K?
Utah Bill runs whatever .99 dino is on sale, turns in stellar UOA, and does 3-5K OCI without consideration as to the differences or additive quality. The brand name dinos mostly run $2.50-3.00/quart, to my addled brain I can't see the difference in any of them, but ESPECIALLY with 3K OCI.
Yeah, yeah, now a hundred peeps will pop up to state that THEIR application is so special and high-pop and stressed that they have to change at 3K, but for most of those even (turbo-charged excepted), a 3K OCI is a waste, dino or syn.
Utah Bill runs whatever .99 dino is on sale, turns in stellar UOA, and does 3-5K OCI without consideration as to the differences or additive quality. The brand name dinos mostly run $2.50-3.00/quart, to my addled brain I can't see the difference in any of them, but ESPECIALLY with 3K OCI.
Yeah, yeah, now a hundred peeps will pop up to state that THEIR application is so special and high-pop and stressed that they have to change at 3K, but for most of those even (turbo-charged excepted), a 3K OCI is a waste, dino or syn.
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Until the first good UOA comes in. Buster should be getting close.
Don't worry some one will promote it like crazy after it's been out for a while.
I suspect it will do very well. Just like the other $2/qt conventional oils out there. At that point it becomes one choice of many at that price/quality range.
I hear a lot of people talking about the 3K OCI being overkill with modern oils...
But I look down the fill-hole of my soon-to-be-father-in-laws Kia, and see some buildup of deposits in the valve train area. The car has about 100,000 miles on it. It is a 2000 I believe. He has religiously changed oil in his cars at 2-3K for many many years, uses mostly 10W40 GTX. That, in my mind, is proof that even with really short OCIs, an engine will get dirty. My question is, would the 5-7K OCI result in a dirtier engine? or would dino oil leave this sort of mess behind regardless of the interval after 100,000 miles...
But I look down the fill-hole of my soon-to-be-father-in-laws Kia, and see some buildup of deposits in the valve train area. The car has about 100,000 miles on it. It is a 2000 I believe. He has religiously changed oil in his cars at 2-3K for many many years, uses mostly 10W40 GTX. That, in my mind, is proof that even with really short OCIs, an engine will get dirty. My question is, would the 5-7K OCI result in a dirtier engine? or would dino oil leave this sort of mess behind regardless of the interval after 100,000 miles...
You mean I'm number 1!
How about 500 mile OCI's on full synthetic with dual filters? Do I get two fingers for that?
How about 500 mile OCI's on full synthetic with dual filters? Do I get two fingers for that?
I know man
I rarely go past a few hundred miles....there are those that are trying to talk me out of it. Aint gonna happen
Of course the car isnt "stock" either....I do run my "stock" drivers 5K and the Mercedes 10K with excellent UOA's on all of them.
I like Pennzoil, Quakerstate, FormulaShell, Valvoline, TropArtic/Motorcraft, Castrol, & Superflo.
Havoline was a favorite of mine, but ive yet to use the new deposit shield and am waiting for some UOA's to come back so i can see for myself what the viscosity numbers look like after 3000-5000 miles of use.
Havoline was a favorite of mine, but ive yet to use the new deposit shield and am waiting for some UOA's to come back so i can see for myself what the viscosity numbers look like after 3000-5000 miles of use.
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