- Jun 11, 2012
- Atlantic, Canada
I was watching this video, and as a owner of a direct injection car, 2018 Mazda 3 that I got brand new, now at 40,000 km, I realized how direct injection is an amazing technology, but seems to have his flaws.
So this guy seems to say that to have less evaporation going in the PCV valve and being recycled in the intake and sucked back in by the intake valves, which is where they apparently get gummed up, to use a oil with a lower NOAK evaporation, basically that wont evaporate as quick so it doesn't end up gunking up the intake valve.
That being said, he also mention that a 0w20 or a 20 weight oil will evaporate quicker and gum the intake valve more. The 20 weight oil seems to have higher evaporation %. His opinion is to go with a thicker oil that will have less evaporation, less crankcase gas, less gunk on the intake valve.
So basically a top quality low evaporation synthetic oil in a 30 weight, 5w30 or 0w30 would be ideal for GDI.
He didn't mentioned anything with quality of fuel, octane ratings, detergents, so basically 87 octave vs 91 or higher.
In my manual, Mexico recommends 5w30 at a 5000 km OCI, with no real specific mention of a synthetic oil. Maybe, just maybe a low NOAK dino oil changed at 3,000 miles the old fashion way would prevent this? Or a good synthetic low NOAK changed at 5,000 miles.
Any of you had problems with direction injection like this? Needed a valve cleaning service?
Or course the dealership will jump on this to make money.
Another thing, who knows what kind of oil the dealership puts in my car, they say its Petro Canada 0w20 full syn, but who really knows, they want to make a profit, not really caring for my intake valve IMO.
I would appreciate your inputs on this, Thanks! www.youtube.com/ watch?v=xrLNDgrIw3U