Newbie... recommendation for 1998 Camry please

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pax1

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Oct 29, 2006
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Hi:

I've been reading through pages and pages of posts and am impressed by the level of knowledge here. A lot of what I see is far over my head and I'm confused. So I thought I'd ask for a recommendation.

My wife has a 1998 Camry that has around 86,000 miles on it. She's supposed to take responsibility for oil changes, and I've told her to follow an OCI of 5,000 miles (sometimes she pays attention; sometimes she doesn't).

The car is in good shape. It doesn't burn oil ar leak. What would you recommend for the oil and filter? Is it time to go to a high mileage (over 75,000 mile) oil? Mix some synthetic in with regular dino? Spec is 5w30 SJ.

Thanks.
 
BEEP BEEP BEEP, sludger alert. I believe this vehicle is a known sludger. I would use 5w30 of your choosing. I'm not quite sold on the virues of high mileage oils; they basically are regular oil with a hint of ester for seal swell.

For filters, it depends on how much you want to spend. Purolator premium plus is a solid middle ground filter; it's usually what I use on my 94 Corolla which shares the same filter with a 98 Camry. L14477 is the part number, although 14476 will also fit but it's about 1/2 inch shorter.

I would honestly drop the oil change interval down to 4 monts/4,000 miles MAX UNLESS she does all highway driving. That will ultimately mitigate any sludge concerns.

I'd also pop the valve cover and see what it looks like, just to make sure there's no sludge.
 
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I think a synthetic is called for in this application. Mobil 1 regular is fine if she changes it ever 5000-6000 miles. If she in not so good about changes the Mobil 1 EP 5w30 is what I would use. It could take extra abuse in this engine without problem. Both are expensive but Sam's club has the regular at a good price.
 
Synthetic is NOT needed. It will provide an extra measure of protection if oil changes are not done on time, but if they are, sludge won't be an issue with conventional oil.

If you want to spend 6 bucks a quart for oil, be my guest but it's not gonna make or brake this engine provided the old Toyota oil change intervals of 3750/3 months severe or 7500/6 months pure highway driving, are met.

pax1, is that what the maintenance intervals are for this vehicle?
 
Well, both the Purolator 14476 and 14477 sized filters fit. The 14477 is about 1/2 inch longer and would add about 2/10ths of a quart extra oil. Likely no discernible benefit or drawback either way on both those size filters.

I hear the Motorcraft FL400s style filter fits although the baseplate diameter is larger than the factory size. That filter would add 1/2 a quart more to the oil capacity. Will that provide any benefit as far as sludge concerns? Personally, I doubt it but many folks run that size filter on these Toyota motors. I'd try one but it will hit my A/C line on my Corolla I believe.
 
I have a 97 camry with the 5sfe. This engine is from this year is a known sludger and mine is sludged bad. I think the previous owner of mine didn't change the oil often enough because when fixed the valve cover leak I found sludge bad enough that my friends that are into cars thought it was on it's last leg. It is actually running very good as long as I make sure to keep it topped up. It burns about 3/4 qt per 1500 miles. I am in the 2nd rinse phase with Auto-RX and am considering a third because mine was so bad.

If you have a 98 camry that isn't burning any oil I think you are very lucky and I would use a good synthetic like GC to prevent future sludge. I plan on trying GC as soon as I finish GC. Mine burns a bit on startup so I also have the common "valve stem seals/guides" issue.

The biggest reason I want to try a good synthetic is that I have noticed that oil seems stable for the first 1000 miles, but starts to disappear faster and faster. The oil on the dipstick will even smell burnt by the end of the short ARX OCIs. I have read that these engines have heads that run hot and narrow oil passages. I think situation is hard on the oil and I am hoping a good synthetic will resist thermal breakdown better. Otherwise the 5SFE seems to be a very good engine.

And get an OEM PCV if it hasn't been changed recently.

I also use purolator premium L14477 on my camry.

Kevin
 
That looks like pure neglect on the previous owners part. Running an SM/GF-4 oil at 3750 miles max isn't gonna do that.

Most people on average change their oil between 5,000 and 10,000 miles and would never in their life fathom checking the oil level once in a while, especially women. They think if they have a vehicle that actually needs to be looked after, then they drive a P.O.S. Self fulfilling prophecy if I ever knew of one.
 
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Assuming you'll switch to 5-30 tropartic for winter or MC or a dino all the time a Purolator PL14777 works for the 3-4000 mi safe oci on this camry 4. You aren't ready for HM yet.
 
It's not a sludger. It's the V6's that are. like in the lexus v6's and V6 Camrys. I think the only reason they are "sludgers" are b/c people are buying into this 15K OCI ________. Supposedly the OHC's are hard on oil and cook the oil up there. for "most" people, they drive in severe. short trips, stop/go city ________. Anyway... back on track. I see you are from CT. It gets cold. 5w30 would be the pick for a regular driver/economy. or a 5w-40 if it's driven harder or has valve tap. Use a Wix or P1 filter and a 3-5K OCI. the most fancy stuff I'd recomend is a Syn Blend for better cold start up. Other than that... toyotas last forever. I have owned many yotas. Currently a 94 V6 4runner with 150K, and a '85 supra with 180K. Both engines are smooth, and run like new.
 
Quote:

It's not a sludger. It's the V6's that are. like in the lexus v6's and V6 Camrys. I think the only reason they are "sludgers" are b/c people are buying into this 15K OCI ________.

Click to expand...


The 2.4L 4 cyl from 1999-2001 is also known to be a sludger. From what I understand it has to do with the large temperature variance from the top end to bottom end that is the culprit of the sludging. I don't agree it was all from people trying to go 15K on an OCI, there is a legitimate design flaw in those motors. The problem is exacerbated by long OCIs, but it exists nonetheless for people who were doing 5K and 7K OCIs.

Bottom line, you don't have one of the engines that exhibited a problem so you don't have to worry.
 
Actually, Toyota sent me a guarrenty letter free fix for my 99 camry 4 cyl. should My car start smoking. But Way before I got that letter I happen to find BITOG and changed to M1 and them Amsoil and then RP. And even after 200K on the clock No probs with engine or transmission.
 
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