New Mazda CX-5

Shoot, thanks for reminding me. It's easy to forget sometimes as it's tempting to make comparisons.
It's extremely tempting! I know, lol.
So you think it costs them more money to blend M1 EP 0W-20 than it does ESP 0W-20?
Absolutely, it's basically straight PAO based, and PAO is more expensive.
Yet they charge more for the ESP product, and given the approvals, it "seems" better. I know that MB229.71 was designed with light-duty diesel engines in mind, with particulate filters. So I wonder if M1 EP 0W-20 could be used in place of ESP 0W-20 for gasoline engines if it's indeed a superior product. What do you think?
It likely could, but additive selection may be different for aftertreatment compatibility.
[Adendum]

I wonder if the remaining 30%~40% in M1 EP 0W-20 is either GTL or Group III+? What's your take?

Remainder would be carrier and additives plus AN's and Esters I suspect. If you look at the VI, there's basically no VII in that oil (the EP).
 
Remainder would be carrier and additives plus AN's and Esters I suspect. If you look at the VI, there's basically no VII in that oil (the EP).

Once again, my apologies, I completely forgot about AN's. If I'm not mistaken, AN's is what allows the EP 0W-20 to get away with using lower amounts of Phosphorus and Zinc and still provide excellent wear protection.
 
Once again, my apologies, I completely forgot about AN's. If I'm not mistaken, AN's is what allows the EP 0W-20 to get away with using lower amounts of Phosphorus and Zinc and still provide excellent wear protection.
I think that's more with the organic borated ester (and other borate) compounds that @MolaKule mentioned in another thread. I quoted him on that recently, as I found it quite fascinating. Apparently, they are big on borated compounds and these are dual purpose working as both an FM and AW additive.

AN's improve solubility and are, according to XOM, used as an alternative to esters, offering the same oxidative stability as PAO, but improving seal compatibility. Their downside is that they have pretty low VI's:

I'd consider them more of an "adjuster" fluid. If you are using the 12cSt version, you can increase base oil viscosity and improve solubility.
 
2018 CX-5 Sport AWD. 16,500 miles. Obviously, mostly short trips, the occasional 50-70 mile trip to Costco. I change twice a year, spring and fall. If I drove it more I’d change it 5000-6000 miles, no more. I get OEM filters at the dealer. They about $8 or so which is less than a Wix or Mobil 1 filter. Ran Zepro couple times at first, then Mobil 1, Citgo cause I got a deal and a rebate, currently Schaefer’s, Valvoline next because I already have it. Mazda has their own brand with Moly. Price is reasonable. Maybe that next.
 
2018 CX-5 Sport AWD. 16,500 miles. Obviously, mostly short trips, the occasional 50-70 mile trip to Costco. I change twice a year, spring and fall. If I drove it more I’d change it 5000-6000 miles, no more. I get OEM filters at the dealer. They about $8 or so which is less than a Wix or Mobil 1 filter. Ran Zepro couple times at first, then Mobil 1, Citgo cause I got a deal and a rebate, currently Schaefer’s, Valvoline next because I already have it. Mazda has their own brand with Moly. Price is reasonable. Maybe that next.
How is that cylinder deactivation business working for you? Curious minds would like to know!
 
I'm on my sixth mazda. Currently have a 21 cx5 CE turbo (replaced a 16 CX5 Touring) and a 18 mazda3 GT (replaced a 14 Mazda6 Touring, wife thought the 6 was little too big for her, I loved it for road trips). Mazda oils have generally had a higher moly content. In all my NA Mazda's I've used QS Ultimate Durability / now QS Full Syn. and Valvoline Advanced Full Syn. in the turbo motor. Both are said to have higher moly contents. I change every 5k miles. The NA motors get Fram Tough Guard filters. The turbo gets the appropriate Mazda Filter. Not one of the Mazda's ever had a problem that required a visit to the dealer (that includes adjustments etc. under warranty, etc.). The 16 cx5 and 14 6 each went in once for a recall. **** good vehicles in my opinion.
 
Owner of 2022 Mazda CX-5 2.5L NA.
2300 miles on it now.
0-2000 miles factory fill.
2000-5000 miles Kirkland 0w20, Supertech 10k filter.
3 FREE dealer 5000 miles changes next.
Then Kirkland 0w20 every 7500 miles with Supertech 10k filter.

We also own a 2014 Mazda 3 with 2.0 NA.
Bought it new. 101k miles on it now.
Followed same change intervals as above.
No issues. Runs like a champ.
Both cars I'd say 80-90% highway.
 

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How is that cylinder deactivation business working for you? Curious minds would like to know!
Ha, I had forgotten all about the cylinder deactivation hysteria / recall on the CX-5 due to the current cylinder deactivation hysteria about my 5.0 F-150.
Luckily, neither engine uses social media and both are problem-free to date.
Edit: typo
 
Last edited:
Ha, I had forgotten all about the cylinder deactivation hysteria / recall on the CX-5 due to the current cylinder deactivation hysteria about my 5.0 F-150.
Luckily, neither engine uses social media and both are problem-free to date.
Edit: typo
Just sayin Mazda only recalled 262,000 units and those aren't social media numbers! Cylinder deactivation took place on the 2018 year and later models.
 
How is that cylinder deactivation business working for you? Curious minds would like to know!
I don’t even notice. I get to drive to Costco on the interstate 75-80 mph. Wife drives mostly slower in town and says it’s a little jerky but I don’t notice when I drive. I like it. It’s a little buzzy but it doesn’t feel underpowered. Gets decent MPG. Other car is Saturn Vue AWD. That’s a gas hog by comparison.
 
My understanding is that the deactivation occurs when in a light cruise mode above a certain speed. As soon as you accelerate it reverts back to four cylinders. So as I see it the system works on easy terrain. The computers really run the show here.

On the jerking, I only experience this when in a area where the speed limit is low. Where I am it’s 10mph. The transmission up shifts but if I slow down for example there is some hesitation. The quick and easy fix it to put the transmission into manual mode. That keeps it in second gear in my case and there is no more jerkiness.
 
After the nightmare with my wifes van with Honda's VCM cylinder deactivation on their V6 I made the resolution to never buy another car with it.
 
After the nightmare with my wifes van with Honda's VCM cylinder deactivation on their V6 I made the resolution to never buy another car with it.
Understandable. Yet Mazda tops the reliability ratings.... I'd still trust a Mazda engine with CD any day over many other makes without CD.
 
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