New Front Rotor Recommendations...

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I get fantastic quality at R1 concepts online. But they can get pricey.

Seriously, iron is iron. Spend a minute or two checking rotors carefully. As long as they're made correctly they'll be just fine.

Too many folks blame rotors when they really have a pad problem.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Do you happen to know which series of EBCs are made in Jolly 'Ol England, and which are cast in Sinoland (or does it vary even within each series?)??

There is a webpage -- but I cannot find it at the moment -- where EBC indicates how to identify which rotors are sourced from the UK and which are not; it has to do, IIRC, whether the "EBC" is imprinted on the edge of the rotor or on the flat surface of the disk. However, I did find this statement on the EBC website:

Originally Posted By: EBC
EBC manufacture many of its rotors in either its own sister company foundry in the UK or in Italy, all rotors are machined and finished in the UK and in the USA.

Where castings or finished rotors have to be bought in to complement the range, the strictest quality controls you can imagine are applied to ensure the safety and quality of the parts we sell. There are ZERO aftermarket casting companies active in the USA much to our regret. The castings we source come mostly from our sister foundry in the UK by a large margin, then some from Italy, some from Japan, some from Australia, some from the Czech Republic and some from China. We source QUALITY parts from well known and proven vendors and we are responsible for and guarantee those parts to fit and perform as expected.
link to the above quotation

Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Also, none of the Ate rotors are still made in Europe (mine were labeled as such, but they are now ~4 years old or so)?

I am sure that you are right. The issue is whether ATE (or any other vendor) just buys parts from a congeries of vendors (probably selecting largely on the basis of price), or whether it has its "own" (subject to the ownership limitations of the PRC) factory, a single PRC source, with the production and quality control under the strict supervision and control of ATE employees who report to the head office in Germany,
 
Originally Posted By: gassipper

Also, I didn't see anyone mention that you definitely might want to inspect/service your slide pins. At a minimum clean and re-lube them with high-temp ceramic grease like that purple Permatex stuff. Mine were so bad I just replaced them with all new HW.


Yes, clean all slide pins and relube with silicone paste, such as Motorcraft XG-3-A or 3M Silicone Paste. There have been numerous reports of the Permatex purple or green drying out and causing issues. The bracket should also be cleaned thoroughly due to rust building up between the bracket and the abutment clips, then molykote M77 should be applied on both the bracket and the abutment clips.
 
Obligatory cheap Chinese rotor warning:

rotor_warning.jpg
 
Better cooling with a wider gap? I'll take that.


Also, you can get high temp brake paint and just paint the hats and lip. Takes all of 15 minutes with minimal brain power.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I get fantastic quality at R1 concepts online. But they can get pricey.

Seriously, iron is iron. Spend a minute or two checking rotors carefully. As long as they're made correctly they'll be just fine.

Too many folks blame rotors when they really have a pad problem.


Or a caliper problem, fluid problem, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: GC4lunch
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Also, none of the Ate rotors are still made in Europe (mine were labeled as such, but they are now ~4 years old or so)?

I am sure that you are right. The issue is whether ATE (or any other vendor) just buys parts from a congeries of vendors (probably selecting largely on the basis of price), or whether it has its "own" (subject to the ownership limitations of the PRC) factory, a single PRC source, with the production and quality control under the strict supervision and control of ATE employees who report to the head office in Germany,



^^^That was supposed to be a question, NOT a statement!

Does anyone know for sure??
21.gif


If so, I may just be ordering some (hopefully) cast in England (or Italy), EBC GD series (or whichever one has those 'spider leg' V shaped slots with NO holes/'dimples', high carbon content, and the dark gray anodising in the ads) next.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

There are no guaranties anymore with premium rotors.


I've experienced the opposite. Plus, with cheap rotors, you get hats that rust...with premium ones they already come painted.


I've bought more expensive rotors with a black coating on them and they rust just as bad the first winter where they see some salt. Maybe it works in California? Caliper paint on cheap rotors is better for rust prevention.

In general, I like to buy better rotors. OEM or Raybestos is what I've used the most. I've had really good luck with Thermo Quiet pads.
 
Originally Posted By: cutter
Better cooling with a wider gap? I'll take that.


Also, you can get high temp brake paint and just paint the hats and lip. Takes all of 15 minutes with minimal brain power.


Since a rotor is primarily a heat sink removing mass is likely going to make it run much hotter.

Hello brain power?
 
I know this post has been around for a bit but, I have had excellent luck with a set of EBC "GD" series of dimpled and slotted rotors for the front of my Tacoma. I put them on at about 9K miles if I remember along with a set of their 7000 SUV series Green pads to give me the feel and stopping power I needed. Stock pads and rotors would have been fine if a person never hauled weight or towed with these trucks.

I used Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors and pads on my wife's Accord and she loves them, I don't have anything negative to say about them and Hondas can be picky occasionally when it comes to rotor and pad combos. I made the mistake a long time ago trying to use cheap rotors on my Cutlass and learned a valuable and expensive lesson. I learned to spend the money once, on the front end of the project, rather than doing it again after the cheap stuff fails.
 
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