New Car New Oil Changes (Toyota Content)

I'm not that familiar with the Toyota 3.5L but it seems to be like most Toyota engines in that they don't produce a lot of wear metals regardless of brand. It is GDI and port, which is great for preventing IVD's. With that said, most Toyota engines don't care about the brand of oil as long as the proper grade is used.

I usually go with the top tier in any brand - oil is not expensive and I like having a reserve built into my oil in case I can't get to oil changes, vehicle is driven in tough conditions such as stop/go or cold weather etc. and the ability to go a bit further if need be.
 
Seems I've spiraled this into a conversation on OCI as well. I stated 5k because despite the 10k recommends I was a 3-3500 person years back with conventional. I upped that to 5k on my VW despite their 10k assurance, but kept my Jeep at 3500 due to ongoing issues and maintenance. Again with this being the new family hauler of the group that will be with us well past 100k I want to ensure I'm starting off right and keeping to my schedule, so 5k will be the OCI. Thanks for that video too(y)

As for the oil type I will keep it to the 0W-20, I may have been looking at an older spec Highlander. Spending a few $ more on the EP is not a deal breaker for me I'm more concerned then with the filter. This will be the first car we own that has the element and O rings only. I'm sure OEM is fine but I do partake in Advance Auto deals for OC's so if there is any brand of filter touted here I'd love to hear about it.

For my VW I may switch between the OEM MANN filter and the Purolator BOSS whichever they had handy during the deal.
 
0w20 is the stuff to use. I've tried a few brands of real synthetics, and I settled on a Group III+, Pennzoil ultra platinum seem to work really well.
I think its the best bang for the buck. 1/3 the cost of amsoil, but almost as good.

Stick with the 5~7k mile OCI, as you'll see in this video.


That advise is golden. Thanks… My 2019 Miata has used TGMO 0w-20 for the last couple years. I am going to switch to PUP 0w-20. Good info on low/high tension piston rings.
 
Seems I've spiraled this into a conversation on OCI as well. I stated 5k because despite the 10k recommends I was a 3-3500 person years back with conventional. I upped that to 5k on my VW despite their 10k assurance, but kept my Jeep at 3500 due to ongoing issues and maintenance. Again with this being the new family hauler of the group that will be with us well past 100k I want to ensure I'm starting off right and keeping to my schedule, so 5k will be the OCI. Thanks for that video too(y)

As for the oil type I will keep it to the 0W-20, I may have been looking at an older spec Highlander. Spending a few $ more on the EP is not a deal breaker for me I'm more concerned then with the filter. This will be the first car we own that has the element and O rings only. I'm sure OEM is fine but I do partake in Advance Auto deals for OC's so if there is any brand of filter touted here I'd love to hear about it.

For my VW I may switch between the OEM MANN filter and the Purolator BOSS whichever they had handy during the deal.


How many miles a year do you plan on driving this vehicle? Short trips or long trips?
 
Seems I've spiraled this into a conversation on OCI as well. I stated 5k because despite the 10k recommends I was a 3-3500 person years back with conventional. I upped that to 5k on my VW despite their 10k assurance, but kept my Jeep at 3500 due to ongoing issues and maintenance. Again with this being the new family hauler of the group that will be with us well past 100k I want to ensure I'm starting off right and keeping to my schedule, so 5k will be the OCI. Thanks for that video too(y)

As for the oil type I will keep it to the 0W-20, I may have been looking at an older spec Highlander. Spending a few $ more on the EP is not a deal breaker for me I'm more concerned then with the filter. This will be the first car we own that has the element and O rings only. I'm sure OEM is fine but I do partake in Advance Auto deals for OC's so if there is any brand of filter touted here I'd love to hear about it.

For my VW I may switch between the OEM MANN filter and the Purolator BOSS whichever they had handy during the deal.
I've had good luck with some dealers that sell on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/234235679471?epid=656009142&hash=item368988d2ef:g:mAMAAOSwOzNhAxIy
 
Any particular oil can say it is good for 10,000 or even 20,000 miles as Castrol says their Edge Gold can do but only if the engine will allow it.

Would you run the Edge Gold in a four cylinder turbo GDI engine?
Yes. If Castrol Edge Gold was offered in a VW508 approved spec (which is likely pretty much what Professional LL IV which is 508 certified is) I'd run it, and run it for the 10k OCI VW specs in my Taos, which is a GDI, Turbo 4 cylinder. This is a GDI, naturally aspirated Toyota V6, not exactly a high stress environment, and I don't see a reason to go any less than Toyota specs.
 
Seems I've spiraled this into a conversation on OCI as well. I stated 5k because despite the 10k recommends I was a 3-3500 person years back with conventional. I upped that to 5k on my VW despite their 10k assurance, but kept my Jeep at 3500 due to ongoing issues and maintenance. Again with this being the new family hauler of the group that will be with us well past 100k I want to ensure I'm starting off right and keeping to my schedule, so 5k will be the OCI. Thanks for that video too(y)

As for the oil type I will keep it to the 0W-20, I may have been looking at an older spec Highlander. Spending a few $ more on the EP is not a deal breaker for me I'm more concerned then with the filter. This will be the first car we own that has the element and O rings only. I'm sure OEM is fine but I do partake in Advance Auto deals for OC's so if there is any brand of filter touted here I'd love to hear about it.

For my VW I may switch between the OEM MANN filter and the Purolator BOSS whichever they had handy during the deal.
check out FCP Euro, they encourage people to "return" their used oil and filter for refunds, so you basically get free oil changes from them for life, less return shipping. They sell VW/Audi oil change kits with 4qts of Liqui Moly Top Tec 6200 and a Mahle filter, just add another quart and done.
 
? Piles of evidence provided for years here and the same old tired mantra is repeated. IMHO.

Just say "I change it more frequently cos it makes me feel better and I can't make rational decisions over emotional ones" we understand and accept that.
So you're a therapist and an analyst ... I'm so glad you've jumped in to help me better understand the emotional intricacies of an oil change.

There are numerous people with lots of experience working with Toyotas (and other marques) who advocate for 5,000-mile oil changes. They have piles of experience telling them that 5,000-mile changes are beneficial.

So now we have two piles ...
 
So you're a therapist and an analyst ... I'm so glad you've jumped in to help me better understand the emotional intricacies of an oil change.

There are numerous people with lots of experience working with Toyotas (and other marques) who advocate for 5,000-mile oil changes. They have piles of experience telling them that 5,000-mile changes are beneficial.

So now we have two piles ...
Do these people have evidence that running longer than 5k OCIs is going to cause damage? No. I can advocate for 3000 mile oil changes and claim that because no engines failed with 3k OCIs that means anything longer is bad. See how this works?
 
So you're a therapist and an analyst ... I'm so glad you've jumped in to help me better understand the emotional intricacies of an oil change.

There are numerous people with lots of experience working with Toyotas (and other marques) who advocate for 5,000-mile oil changes. They have piles of experience telling them that 5,000-mile changes are beneficial.

So now we have two piles ...
But where does the actual data and testing lay? :)
 
How many miles a year do you plan on driving this vehicle? Short trips or long trips?
Typically 10-15k per year. A lot of town driving with a few road trips not more than 3-4 hours in length which adds to my wanting to stay to 5k OCI.

Yes. If Castrol Edge Gold was offered in a VW508 approved spec (which is likely pretty much what Professional LL IV which is 508 certified is) I'd run it, and run it for the 10k OCI VW specs in my Taos, which is a GDI, Turbo 4 cylinder. This is a GDI, naturally aspirated Toyota V6, not exactly a high stress environment, and I don't see a reason to go any less than Toyota specs.
Funny enough on my GLI oil cap it says Castrol in their font, but I was already using it prior and love the product.

check out FCP Euro, they encourage people to "return" their used oil and filter for refunds, so you basically get free oil changes from them for life, less return shipping. They sell VW/Audi oil change kits with 4qts of Liqui Moly Top Tec 6200 and a Mahle filter, just add another quart and done.
FCP Euro is my go to for parts for my GLI. They are local so it's only a 20 min drive to their shop for pickup. I may have to look into their oil change setup, thanks!
 
Good Morning all. I won't go crazy with introductions but will state that my oil changes across the board have always been with Castrol Edge (formerly Syntec when I began using it). Currently in the garage is a 2012 VW GLI 2.0T running the 5W-40 Castrol Edge High Mileage (146k) and previously our 2005 Jeep Liberty 3.7L on Castrol Edge High Mileage 5W-30 (205k). We sold the Jeep and brought in our brand new 2021 Toyota Highlander XLE AWD with the 3.5L V6. So far I love everything about this car and it feels like a spaceship compared to the Jeep.

I am about to do the first oil change and was going to stick with Castrol Edge and use the EP gold bottles instead. I'm pretty religious about 5k oil changes and it seems to call for 5W-30 but am happy to hear about alternative oil brands and weights as well as filters. I was planning on grabbing the Toyota OEM filter. I should add we keep our cars (as evidence in the first paragraph) so this will be around for awhile.

Thanks and look forward to the replies!

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Congrats on the Highlander!

Make sure you have the Toyota oil filter wrench/tool. It will make life a lot easier.

Also, as others have pointed out, the oil should most likely be 0W-20.
 
Do these people have evidence that running longer than 5k OCIs is going to cause damage? No. I can advocate for 3000 mile oil changes and claim that because no engines failed with 3k OCIs that means anything longer is bad. See how this works?
But they do have evidence that 10,000-mile changes don't always work well. That's how it works, see?

Different engines, different oils, different environments, different driving situations, and people with different experiences and preferences all help to determine an OCI. There is no one-size-fits-all scenario. If you choose to run a lower-tier oil out to 10,000 miles on a new $45,000 vehicle, it's your choice, your money, and your roll of the dice. I, and others, choose a more conservative path. And there are those who split the difference at 7,500 miles.

Do you really think you're right and those who disagree with you are wrong?
 
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Do these people have evidence that running longer than 5k OCIs is going to cause damage? No. I can advocate for 3000 mile oil changes and claim that because no engines failed with 3k OCIs that means anything longer is bad. See how this works?
I can only speak to my experience. I service 3 Acura TSXs with the mighty K24.
1 - 2006 that we bought new in Dec 2006. 210K miles. 4.5K to 5K OCIs with mainly M1 0w30. Engine internals are spotless and does not go through a drop of oil between services.
2 - 2007 bought new by my sister after driving our car. 90K, services by OLM by dealer and lube shop, syn and semi syn. She gave me the car 2 years ago when she got a new car. Goes through 1/2 to 1 quart between services.
3 - 2007 serviced by Acura, 140K miles. Goes through 1/2 to 1 quart between services.
 
Well, let’s see….
A brand new car going into service in a family that rolls their cars into high mileage. The owner has decided to run a top tier oil with OEM filters and set his OCI’s at 5k. Where’s the problem? DIY GUY, carry on…..
That's not the issue. The issue is when people act like the moment you start going over 5k miles you're engine is going to blow up, and act like "well MY mechanic says he'd never go over 5k miles and he's an expert". If people want to be "conservative" about their oil changes "to be safe" that's fine, but don't talk like going longer is going to kill your engine when there is absolutely zero evidence in support of that assertion.

As far as the OP goes, I think 5k is reasonable, if a bit short imo for a modern engine with a modern full synthetic oil, but it's not excessive. I'd personally run to whatever the manufacturer says, or 7500-10k miles.
 
I can only speak to my experience. I service 3 Acura TSXs with the mighty K24.
1 - 2006 that we bought new in Dec 2006. 210K miles. 4.5K to 5K OCIs with mainly M1 0w30. Engine internals are spotless and does not go through a drop of oil between services.
2 - 2007 bought new by my sister after driving our car. 90K, services by OLM by dealer and lube shop, syn and semi syn. She gave me the car 2 years ago when she got a new car. Goes through 1/2 to 1 quart between services.
3 - 2007 serviced by Acura, 140K miles. Goes through 1/2 to 1 quart between services.
I had a k24 (which is notorious for using acceptable levels of oil) in a 2004 accord. Serviced every 3-4k. At 111k it burned a quart over an oci. So now what? This is why actual data and UOAs are important.

There’s differences and variations in materials, machined tolerances, etc in engine parts. We can’t always just blindly blame an oil or oci (even though many here seem to like to do just that) for “issues”
 
I had a k24 in a 2004 accord. Serviced every 3-4k. At 111k it burned a quart over an oci. So now what? This is why actual data and UOAs are important.

There’s differences and variations in materials, machined tolerances, etc in engine parts. We can’t always just blindly blame an oil or oci (even though many here seem to like to do just that) for “issues”
And then go over to the maintenance forum and there's a new thread showing valve covers removed on a Cruze 1.4T with 150k miles that was run with mostly 10k OCIs and it looks as good as new.
 
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