New car break-in

every UOA from newish cars posteed here shows elevated iron content. That means there is elevated metal to metal contact and at those contact points elevated temperatures, including micro welding.

It all depends how long you want to keep that new car, if it's going to be traded in after a few years it doesn't matter one bit. otherwise, it's in your best interest to keep the size of the micro welds as small as possible
 
Aside from more extreme circumstances, most daily driving duties pretty much follow the "break-in" instructions on most cars. You drive surface streets at slower/varied speeds to get out to the highway. You may do 25-30 miles on the highway, then exit the highway and travel some surface streets at a slower speed to reach work or wherever your destination. Then repeat going home. That is varied enough driving for "break-in" purposes. Do this for a couple of weeks and the "break-in" is complete.

Since 55mph is the "national speed limit", most automakers use that as the maximum documented speed for obvious reasons. Most local highways where I live are 55mph, and the state tollway is 65mph. Whether you drive 55mph or 65mph during "break-in" isn't going to make a bit of difference. Engine RPM between 55-65 will not be appreciably different enough to matter. The roads are heavily patrolled around here, so on the 55mph roads you are better off keeping it around 60mph, and on the 65mph roads staying around 70mph. The state troopers have openly admitted that they don't bother with anyone going up to 7mph over the posted limit. They have enough drivers blasting down the road at 75mph+ to keep them busy all day every day.

Most automakers just don't want a new owner to buy a new car, then immediately jump on the interstate and set the cruise control at 70mph and drive non-stop for several hours at a constant speed and engine RPM.
 
I just recently got out of my break-in period on my Camaro SS, which I got with 6 miles on the ODO.

Did the best I could to just vary RPM, not hold gears for a long time and keep it under 4K RPM or so. When it was fully heated up, I would push it a bit further than that and drive fairly spirited once I got over 500 miles. Took it for some longer highway drives in late fall, but avoided cruise control and down shifted every few minutes for a while to keep the RPM's fluctuating.

Did an oil change at 500 miles and will be doing another here at 1,500... Then I will just follow the OLM.

No oil usage (even though manual claims higher oil burn during break-in and the need to likely top off). But have not burned a drop that I can visually see.

At this point, I consider the motor completely broken in. Although in reality, that happened sooner for sure. I start having more fun with it around 750 miles. But I always avoid short trips and ensure coolant/oil are full operating temp.

On my Scion xB I had prior (2.4L 2AZFE) which I got new as well, my break-in was similar. Before it got totaled at 145K some ten years later, I had very minor oil burn (maybe 1/2 quart every 4-5K miles). But that didn't start until beyond 100K.
 
Drive it like you stole it. Just don't use cruise. I redlined my last new subarus after a couple hundred miles (if that). No oil use. Other vehicles I have babied and some of them used oil.
 
Aside from more extreme circumstances, most daily driving duties pretty much follow the "break-in" instructions on most cars. You drive surface streets at slower/varied speeds to get out to the highway. You may do 25-30 miles on the highway, then exit the highway and travel some surface streets at a slower speed to reach work or wherever your destination. Then repeat going home. That is varied enough driving for "break-in" purposes. Do this for a couple of weeks and the "break-in" is complete.

Since 55mph is the "national speed limit", most automakers use that as the maximum documented speed for obvious reasons. Most local highways where I live are 55mph, and the state tollway is 65mph. Whether you drive 55mph or 65mph during "break-in" isn't going to make a bit of difference. Engine RPM between 55-65 will not be appreciably different enough to matter. The roads are heavily patrolled around here, so on the 55mph roads you are better off keeping it around 60mph, and on the 65mph roads staying around 70mph. The state troopers have openly admitted that they don't bother with anyone going up to 7mph over the posted limit. They have enough drivers blasting down the road at 75mph+ to keep them busy all day every day.

Most automakers just don't want a new owner to buy a new car, then immediately jump on the interstate and set the cruise control at 70mph and drive non-stop for several hours at a constant speed and engine RPM.
55mph hasn’t been the national speed limit in decades.
 
I have never seen anyone break in a Sports/Pony/Muscle car like that. That statement goes out the window on the first test drive and lot of those cars don't live an easy life. Certainly not the life of a Camry or a Malibu.
And how is their longevity compared to a Camry or Malibu? Oil burning? Engine repairs? How are they holding up at 200,000 miles? What do the engines look like if opened up? Just curious ... I certainly don't know the answer, but you seem to have some experience in these matters.
 
And how is their longevity compared to a Camry or Malibu? Oil burning? Engine repairs? How are they holding up at 200,000 miles? What do the engines look like if opened up? Just curious ... I certainly don't know the answer, but you seem to have some experience in these matters.
Depends on which generation. I’ll stick with the FWD variants for this comparison.
1997-2003 (2004-2005 Classic Fleet) was a reliable car if it had the 3.1V6, intake gaskets were the only major weakness of these (most GM’s of this era). The quad four 4 banger was a mess, a few years later GM dumped the quad four and you could only get the 3.1V6. The 2004-2005 Classic came with the 2.2 Ecotec and those are very reliable.

2004-2007 (2008 Fleet) generation came with the 2.2 4cylinder Ecotec or the 3.5 V6. Both reliable, 3.5 V6 engines had some intake gasket issues but wasn’t widespread. Some 2.2 Ecotecs had timing chain tensioners fail, mainly in neglected engines. Overall general “cheapness” became evident with this generation, especially in the suspension. Very reliable cars however.

2008-2012 generation is hit or miss on reliability. Equipped with either the 2.4 Ecotec or 3.6 V6 (port injected version), both engines have known issues. There was a hybrid version for 2 model years that used a modified version of the 2.4. The 2.4 Ecotec is notorious for chain wear. The 3.6 is susceptible to chain wear too but mainly if oil change intervals were too long. The 3.6 benefited from short changes. There are a lot of 3.6 port injection engines over 200k miles. Both the 4cylinder and V6 suffer from 6 speed auto problems. Neither engine is tolerant of extended oil changes. Build quality of this generation was much improved over the previous generation.

2013-2015 (2016 Malibu Fleet) was not a well respected car. They came equipped with 2.5 DI Ecotec, 2.0T DI Ecotec or the 2.4 Ecotec in the Hybrid. First of all this platform was smaller and they introduced start/stop on the 2014 2.5 4 cylinder. Timing chain wear is no longer an issue, however they both have a history of oil consumption. The start/stop system requires an auxiliary battery to function and there is no button to disable it. Transmissions are less problematic than the previous generation. For whatever reason this generation has a lot of computer module issues.

2016-Current generation should really be split into two categories IMO. The 2016-2018 came with the 1.5T or 2.0T, both with 6 speed autos. Both engines suffer from LSPI and GM did a number of enhancements to rectify the issue. There was a Hybrid version that used a totally different power train. Not many other widespread issues. **2019+ models** Went thru a mid cycle refresh and were extensively reworked. The 1.5T is now mated to a CVT and it’s a good unit. LSPI is virtually nonexistent on the 1.5T now, the 2.0T still has LSPI reports but GM “highly recommends” 93 octane. Assumably many of the 2.0T’s are getting regular 87 octane. The 2019+ models are solidly reliable. Overall build quality of the 2016+ is good.

I understand you weren’t looking for an in depth comparison of the Malibu, but they are reliable, just as the Camry is. I’m not sure of all the issues the Camry has but I know it has its issues as well. Repairs on any car are inevitable. Regarding the Malibu, if there is one generation I would avoid its the 2013-2015 (2016 Fleet). It was short lived for a reason.
 
I believe in DATA and not this guessing and repeat guessing we often see. I've done UOA on my last four new engines, (4.0 Jeep, Subaru Forester NA, Mazda CX7 turbo and a 2014 Mazda Skyactv CX5 NA. The wear metals didn't stabilize until ~ 3-4,000 miles in all engines. Most of the high wear metals were significantly lower by 3,000, it is obvious to me that some final polishing and burnishing takes place for another 1 to 2,000 miles. Ed
 
I think a few things are pretty much universally agreed upon:

• It’s good not to drone along at the same speed in the same gear for a long time. Vary speed and gear when possible.

• Engine braking is important for seating the rings. Try to employ some engine braking to create some vacuum in the cylinders.

• Brief runs into the higher RPMs not only won’t hurt the new engine, but are actually beneficial to break-in. That doesn’t mean to hold it in higher RPM range for an excessively long time, but, early on in the engine’s life, I believe it’s a good thing to go ahead and briefly redline it (being sure it’s had plenty of time to warm up to full operating temp).

• Heat cycles are important - getting it up to full ops temp, then letting it fully cool down, many times.

• Modern engines don’t take all that long to “break in”.

Well said. That covers most of what I've ever read on the topic.
 
And how is their longevity compared to a Camry or Malibu? Oil burning? Engine repairs? How are they holding up at 200,000 miles? What do the engines look like if opened up? Just curious ... I certainly don't know the answer, but you seem to have some experience in these matters.
Tons of 200,000 mile F-bodies that don't burn oil and still run identical 1/4 mile times as they did new. They have not been apart so I can't tell you what they look inside. Drivetrain wise? I bet as good or better than both of those cars. GM does line bore the cam bearings, I am sure that helps. I have seen guys build new LS engines run them on the engine dyno, put it in the car take it straight to the chassis dyno and make a bunch of WOT pulls to get there tune correct.
Every engine is different.
I guess I am just speaking LS based but even LS based trucks that tow from day one are now seeing 200,000 to 300,000 miles with very little to no oil usage.
 
When I purchased my new Jeep Cherokee a few months ago I had to drive it home from the dealer ~45 miles away. It was all highway at 70-75 MPH. I did vary the speed/RPM as much as possible, kept it under 3,500 RPM's.

This past month and 900 miles I've driven it modestly with a handful of full throttle stints while cruising on the highway. The manual actually says to break it in this way for better engine life. This 3.2 Pentastar is a sweet little engine, sounds great as well.

Hasn't burned a drop of oil.
 
When my '03 Golf was new, I had to put over 12,000 miles on it before it began to get 40+ mpg on a regular basis. So based on my experience, diesel engines take longer to break-in, and I was closely following break-in procedures from the experts. (Now I average 45-46 mpg in warmer weather.)
 
When I bought my Tahoe brand new back in 2016 took it on a road trip to NYC from Miami immediately with only 100 miles on it. Speeds were from 70-90+ MPH out on I-95. Have over 100K miles now and so far has been the best vehicle I ever owned.
 
The biggest problem with this "debate" is that everyone only knows 1 outcome. I broke in my car X way and now it performs Y. We don't know how the car otherwise would have performed if break in was done differently. And there's no way to replicate it since other people even with the exact same car will have infinite different variables.

What I think is obvious is that as machining and design have advanced the need for "break in" has decreased dramatically if it hasn't pretty much already vanished.
 
If you have difficulty keeping it under 55 and not using full throttle, you have psychological issues. I believe the technical term is "gearhead."
But it's easy to vary the RPM, just change gears.
 
So right after I posted this question I ordered a GMC truck through the local dealer. It will be delivered to Phoenix by train and depending on timing I might have the choice of waiting for a full truck load to deliver it to the local dealer or having a driver from the dealer go get it which means 100+ miles on I-17 with a speed limit of 75. Waiting for a full truck might take up to 2 weeks. Driving it myself from the depot isn't an option.
 
So right after I posted this question I ordered a GMC truck through the local dealer. It will be delivered to Phoenix by train and depending on timing I might have the choice of waiting for a full truck load to deliver it to the local dealer or having a driver from the dealer go get it which means 100+ miles on I-17 with a speed limit of 75. Waiting for a full truck might take up to 2 weeks. Driving it myself from the depot isn't an option.
Okay?
 
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