New car - best oil change strategy during break in??

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

davefr

Joined
Mar 31, 2003
Messages
418
Location
OR
I just picked up my new '05 Pontiac GXP with an LS4 V8.

I want to give it the best head start with respect to break in. It's got a whopping 83 miles on it so far. Should I change the oil now or wait a tad longer??

If I change it now should I change it again at another intermediate interval??

I'm worried about contaminents as a result of the manufacturing process.

I already bought a case of Chevron Supreme when Schucks had it on sale and plan to use it during the break in process. Once break in is over I'll switch with Mobil 1 and change it when the GM DIC shows 25% oil life remaining.

Is there an optimal break in strategy with new engines wrt oil changes??
 
In the past, I would have changed it at 500 miles. WOO HOO!

I got to tell you 5 years ago, I broke in my Z06 with an old school oil change at 1,600 miles. So we see forward progress! It was a complete and utter waste of time, effort, money, and resources and accomplished literally NOTHING.

Trust me, all those UFO's you think you might have washing around in a new engine, is simply NOT there. If there is some, it is caught by the oil filter. There is of course, the normal microscopic break in wear going on.

If you don't trust me, you can spend good money to get a baseline (83 miles) UOA and 500 mile UOA at 20-50 a pop. Then of course, whatever systematic OCI UOA after that.

I would just follow the manufacturer's recommendation, (which I have for every car since then). On a 2003 VW Jetta TDI, recommended and actual 5,000. miles. On a 2004 Honda Civic, recommended and actual 10,000 miles. So for example if I was breaking in a new Corvette Z06, I'd change it out at app 15,000 miles.

Chevron Supreme! A stellar oil !! I do however use the Group IV Mobil One. 5w30 in the Z06 and TLC's 0w20/5w20 for the Honda Civic. Delvac One 5w40 AKA Mobil One Truck & SUV for the Jetta TDI.

[ May 09, 2005, 06:09 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
 
I think ruking77 is right. Although I wouldn't go 15,000 on any car but thats just me. At the earliest, change it out at 5k. Gradually vary the RPM's for the first 1,000 miles and you'll be good to go. You might want to consider sticking with Chevron Supreme if you have that in your area. Good stuff.
 
For a couple of bucks I vote to change it (even though it may not be "necessary") and then you won't worry. Its certainly not gonna hurt and metals/contaminates are higher on breakin (origional oil)
 
quote:
Originally posted by Al:
For a couple of bucks I vote to change it (even though it may not be "necessary") and then you won't worry. Its certainly not gonna hurt and metals/contaminates are higher on breakin (origional oil)
Click to expand...
Don't know about that. A UOA on the factory oil in my 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX showed an ungodly amount of moly (800+ PPM) well beyond that of rings breaking in. Could have been a breakin additive (or assembly lube).
 
Much like voting in Chicago, change it early and often!
smile.gif
 
Waiting for the normal OCI is a "tough pill to swallow" on a brand new engine. I don't think I can do it.

I am however curious what would pose the highest risk. Would it be contamination from the manufacturing process which would suggest an oil change right now just to flush out any residue or abrasive dust.

Or, would it be wise to wait a little longer into the break in process which in itself might produce contaminents.

I guess the optimal strategy would be to change it now to get rid of any potential manufacturing depris and then at 1000 miles to get rid of any particles that are produced as part of engine break in.

But is GM's factory fill just regular dino or is it fortified with special additives to help with the break in process? I wouldn't want to change it prematurely if it's actually helping do something that regualr oil can't.
 
quote:
Originally posted by davefr:
But is GM's factory fill just regular dino or is it fortified with special additives to help with the break in process? I wouldn't want to change it prematurely if it's actually helping do something that regualr oil can't.
Click to expand...
Corvette engine and others are "broken in" on Mobil 1. I changed my 01 Sentra out as soon as I got it home with less than 40 miles. For all practical purposes it uses no oil. I have changed at least 3 others with less than a couple of hundred on...they are all still running fine using no oil. Honda uses higher amounts of Moly in breakin and I believe recommends leaving it in for x amount of time. I just don't think its an issue anymore. As usual..don't believe anything you read on the internet (including this post
smile.gif
)
 
Change the oil at 500 miles! You can leave the filter in place! I would change it again 1500 miles down the road. I bet that you oil at 500 miles will have sparkely little gliter particles in it if you check it in direct sun light! After the second the oil change I would go to what ever interval you normaly use. I have to admit I have not looked at too many new N. Star UOA one new engines so I do not know how quickly they wear in. If they are like the rest of the GM V8's they take a while to break in and generate a lot of initial wear dureing break in!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Al:

quote:
Originally posted by davefr:
But is GM's factory fill just regular dino or is it fortified with special additives to help with the break in process? I wouldn't want to change it prematurely if it's actually helping do something that regualr oil can't.
Click to expand...
Corvette engine and others are "broken in" on Mobil 1. I changed my 01 Sentra out as soon as I got it home with less than 40 miles. For all practical purposes it uses no oil. I have changed at least 3 others with less than a couple of hundred on...they are all still running fine using no oil. Honda uses higher amounts of Moly in breakin and I believe recommends leaving it in for x amount of time. I just don't think its an issue anymore. As usual..don't believe anything you read on the internet (including this post
smile.gif
)
Click to expand...
Just curious, I hope this doesn't turn into a flame thread and sorry if it seems off topic, but how were those vehicles driven during the first 1000 miles?

From what i've heard before(I DO NOT KNOW THE CREDIBILITY OF THIS), but the engines are run-in under load at the factory to get the rings started on getting seated. I only think they start the odometer(or connect it)right before it leaves the factory. So there could be hours on the engine that you aren't aware of.

Another curious thought, it could be possible that a different break-in oil is run during the initial run-in of the engine of engines that run synthetic, or possibly a different procedure. ...Possibly it doesn't matter but from this forum it seems people have experience with that being a problem.

[ May 09, 2005, 08:48 PM: Message edited by: MN Driver ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by MN Driver:

quote:
Originally posted by Al:

quote:
Originally posted by davefr:
But is GM's factory fill just regular dino or is it fortified with special additives to help with the break in process? I wouldn't want to change it prematurely if it's actually helping do something that regualr oil can't.
Click to expand...
Corvette engine and others are "broken in" on Mobil 1. I changed my 01 Sentra out as soon as I got it home with less than 40 miles. For all practical purposes it uses no oil. I have changed at least 3 others with less than a couple of hundred on...they are all still running fine using no oil. Honda uses higher amounts of Moly in breakin and I believe recommends leaving it in for x amount of time. I just don't think its an issue anymore. As usual..don't believe anything you read on the internet (including this post
smile.gif
)
Click to expand...
Just curious, I hope this doesn't turn into a flame thread and sorry if it seems off topic, but how were those vehicles driven during the first 1000 miles?

From what i've heard before(I DO NOT KNOW THE CREDIBILITY OF THIS), but the engines are run-in under load at the factory to get the rings started on getting seated. I only think they start the odometer(or connect it)right before it leaves the factory. So there could be hours on the engine that you aren't aware of.

Another curious thought, it could be possible that a different break-in oil is run during the initial run-in of the engine of engines that run synthetic, or possibly a different procedure. ...Possibly it doesn't matter but from this forum it seems people have experience with that being a problem.
Click to expand...
While I didn't use Mobil 1 in my 2004 WRX until 6K miles, I'm skeptical that synthetic oil per se is bad for break-in. Perhaps PAO (+ester/AN) synthetics (like Mobil 1) might have been relatively lower friction in the past. These days, friction modifiers make any common motor oil "slippery".

My 2004 Subaru warranty guide is adamant that the first oil change be performed at 3K miles or 3 months. I suspected that the oil contained a breakin additive. The UOA on the factory fill showed a moly level of 800+ PPM.
 
Here's what I did:

Drove it "mild" for 500 miles.

More aggressive the next 500 miles.

CHANGED THE OIL AT 1000 MILES.

Added 6.5 quarts of Mobil 7500 5W-20 and a new MotorCraft filter.

I'll change it again at 5000 miles and then when I hit 10,000 miles I'll go Mobil 1.

You'll get hundreds of opinions here, but I beleive I would change it. I'm just anal like that ! (OK, yes, I dream about oil !)
 
quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
I bet that you oil at 500 miles will have sparkely little gliter particles in it if you check it in direct sun light!
Click to expand...
In my 2005 Nissan Frontier I did the first oil change at 2400 miles and I did have an abundance of "sparkly little glitter particles".

I wish I had gotten it out sooner.
 
quote:
Originally posted by racuda:
In my 2005 Nissan Frontier I did the first oil change at 2400 miles and I did have an abundance of "sparkly little glitter particles".

I wish I had gotten it out sooner. [/QB]
Click to expand...
Those "sparkly little glitter particles" were in the pan though, and were likely trapped by the oil filter before dropping back into the pan.
 
My 2 cents, did the 2004 4runner at 1K miles and did the 2003 350Z at 1K miles. After that first change I now do OCI with the 350Z every 3K and the 4runner 4.7 V8 every 3750 miles. I only use a premium dino in both vehicles and OEM filters. I will trade them both before they ever hit 100K miles and lubrication won't be a problem
smile.gif
neither one uses oil between OCI.
 
Quality control is better these days but I'd change it. Dust and particulates cause the worst UOAs. It'll cost you $10 if you do it yourself. Check this board, but I don't think GM does anything other than fill with 5w-30 bulk on their small blocks.

Interesting car BTW. Nice how GM focused on torque steer and used equal length driveshafts. It may turn out to be a classic along the lines of the early Toronados. They've already cancelled the Bonneville.

On the break in, there has been a lot of good advice on this board. I like the idea of seating the rings by holding it in gear and going through some acceleration/deceleration cycles. Don't run the engine at wide open throttle during these periods, just exercise it over the rev band a bit. I also don't leave it in 4th (overdrive) unless over about 50 mph so as not to load up the bearings.

The LS7 gets factory load testing to break it in. Not sure on the LS4.

[ May 09, 2005, 11:55 PM: Message edited by: Geoff ]
 
I've always done the first change at half the recommended miles and then at the recommended mileage after that. So for my new Sport Trac which calls for a 5k OCI, I do the first change at 2500 then at 5k and every 5k after. This has always worked for me.
 
I'd work backwards from your intended OCI ..whatever that is in your mind. If it's the factory recommended OCI ..then keep cutting it in half until you get under or around 1000 miles. You then work forward and double the mileage in each progressive OCI until you peak out at whatever you're going to end up with. If it's 7500 it would roughly be 1k, 2k (3k), 4k(7k), 7.5k.(14-15k). When you're up to speed, so to speak, you're at or near the sweet spot of stable indicators ..or as Isttruck calls it ..the flat bottom of the bathtub curve.

Maybe it's just the pattern that appeals to me..
dunno.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

G
High Performance Lubricants Break In Oil
Replies
8
Views
652
Gebo
C
Classic vs Modern Engine Break-In
Replies
9
Views
560
vpr5703
B
Break-in oil
Replies
18
Views
2K
sloinker
L
Metal in Engine Oil Break-in
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
subzerospeed
J
Engine break in.
2 3 4
Replies
66
Views
7K
demarpaint
Back
Top