Break-in oil

[budnick71]

Just rebuild 1969 440 engine. Stock Setup.
I understand that zinc should be in oil for break-in period and possibly longer.

I purchased Castrol GTX SEA 10w-40 Oil

Does this have zinc in it? Doesn't state on bottle. And if it does is it enough for break in?

If not i did purchase Lucas Zinc additive. Would it hurt to add this additive anyway? Its says one bottle of additive per oil change.

Thanks

 

[gman2304]

Just rebuild 1969 440 engine. Stock Setup.
I understand that zinc should be in oil for break-in period and possibly longer.

I purchased Castrol GTX SEA 10w-40 Oil

Does this have zinc in it? Doesn't state on bottle. And if it does is it enough for break in?

If not i did purchase Lucas Zinc additive. Would it hurt to add this additive anyway? Its says one bottle of additive per oil change.

Thanks

You might consider the Valvoline Vr1 after your break in in either conventional or full synthetic flavors .They’re already loaded with all the good stuff ( plenty of zinc ) your Mopar will ever need and you won’t need any additives .

 

[fantastic]

I think break-in oils take some additives out. Meaning they're not a fully formulated oil you'd normally use after the initial fill. After one run of actual break-in oil then look for what you want to run for the long haul.

 

[budnick71]

I think break-in oils take some additives out. Meaning they're not a fully formulated oil you'd normally use after the initial fill. After one run of actual break-in oil then look for what you want to run for the long haul.

thanks

 

[fantastic]

thanks

You're welcome.

 

[PontiacHO]

As previously stated above the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil has the necessary zinc. It used to state on the bottle “NOT STREET LEGAL” so as to keep folks from using in cars with catalytic converters. I used it on my last big block Chevy build with a high perf flat tappet camshaft and associated valve springs. Ran the engine for 30 minutes holding RPMs between 1200 & 2000. Put a fan in front of the radiator and ran a gutted thermostat for initial run and cam break in. It’s best to quickly get the initial timing correct right after first start and before the 30 minute run in. Otherwise you can overheat and turn the exhaust cherry red burning your headers and/or cooking the paint off your cylinder heads. That heated situation (late timing) can also ruin the exhaust valve seals.

 

[budnick71]

thanks

 

[Chris142]

Unless an oil claims to have extra zddp it won't have enough for break in. Every camshaft manufacturer sells a bottle you can add to oil during break in.

With all the problems lately with flat tappit cams it makes sense to go roller when rebuilding an engine.

 

[budnick71]

thanks

 

[wpod]

Just use the cam mfgs additive as per cam manufactured recommentations. Cam Problems are from poor quality and or quality control.

 

[Trav]

I would add a half bottle of Redline break in additive to the 10w40. I have used this a few times and had good results.

Engine Oil Break-In Additive

Provides conventional motor oils with antiwear additives like zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) necessary to protect against camshaft and valvetrain damage on break-in

www.redlineoil.com

 

[RDY4WAR]

Castrol GTX 10W-40 does not contain sufficient ZDDP for break-in. It's also likely not the ideal type of ZDDP. That oil also contains a standard DI pack with common detergent content which also isn't desirable for break-in. Detergents are acid neutralizers and ZDDP is an acidic ester so you can see how they don't like each other. Adding a supplement won't take the unwanted additives out. It will help tremendously, and likely keep the engine alive, but if the objective is the least wear and best ring seal possible, this isn't the way to go.

A dedicated break-in oil like Driven BR30 or Amsoil Break-In SAE 30 is formulated to make ZDDP the star of the show and get everything else out of its way. The anti-wear film establishment is quicker and thicker to keep wear low through the break-in.

 

[budnick71]

thanks

 

[RDY4WAR]

thanks

The good thing is the Mopar engines have the larger diameter .904" lifters. You have a best case scenario with a stock cam for a good break-in and cam survival. I tend to overkill things and this would be one of those cases. Realistically, for a casually street driven engine, the difference between 2% leakdown and
I would still follow the break-in procedure though. I like to preheat the oil to 150-160°F before priming the system as primes a lot easier and gives some heat to better drive additive reactivity. On first startup, go to 2000-2500 rpm for 20-30 minutes. This is for the cam break-in. The sustained rpm ensures good oil splash around the valvetrain and heats the oil up quicker. It also gives sufficient piston speed for the rings to transition into full film lubrication so you don't glaze the cylinder hone before the rings seat. After that, I go straight into wide open throttle pulls with varying rpm. The rings like heat and pressure to seat. Then go 150-250 miles on the break-in oil before switching to the oil of choice.

 

[ka9mnx]

New cam and lifters? If so, did you use cam break in lube (not oil) on them when assembling?

 

[D1sc]

Just rebuild 1969 440 engine. Stock Setup.
I understand that zinc should be in oil for break-in period and possibly longer.

I purchased Castrol GTX SEA 10w-40 Oil

Does this have zinc in it? Doesn't state on bottle. And if it does is it enough for break in?

If not i did purchase Lucas Zinc additive. Would it hurt to add this additive anyway? Its says one bottle of additive per oil change.

Thanks

Just now seeing your post. Hast two vette builds and the one ready this spring

 

[sloinker]

I rebuilt a B-440 Mopar a couple years ago. I used HPL break in oil. It is still in there as I have only driven it maybe 10 miles since I broke it in. I have some VR1 Valvoline and a new filter for it when I can motivate my lazy backside in my cold garage.

https://www.hploil.com/break-in-oil

I used the 10W40 Semi Synthetic

 

[sloinker]

Here it is being broke in.

 

[sloinker]

It was a warm day, I monitored oil pressure while priming with a drill motor. I rotated the motor over manually about a dozen times while priming, checked to make sure the top end was getting well oiled with valve covers off. Set to TDC and configured distributor for around 15BTDC, started, checked timing with vacuum advance plugged and all in mechanical for total of around 25BTDC. Started and ran with a screwdriver wedging the throttle @2500 RPM for 30 minutes. Monitored coolant temp, checked for leaks....After break in I hooked up vacuum advance and adjusted vac canister for 33BTDC total. Ended up replacing carb due to some vacuum leaks around butterfly shafts. New Edelbrock was almost plug and play. If you romp on it at low speeds it will get sideways and change lanes in a hurry if you aren't paying attention. I like the efficiency of modern engines and horsepower for displacement. That being said, there is nothing like a Big Block Mopar or Bowtie to get your attention in a hurry.