Time to dump the break in oil and move onto the next....

[sloinker]

Rebuilt the B-440 engine that is in my '64 Plymouth, I Used HPL break in oil for the new internals/camshaft. Oil has been mostly sitting since break in with maybe another 25 miles since then. I am probably going to use a higher zinc diesel oil. Maybe HPL or maybe this. You think that it's too soon for a 100% synthetic and I should stick to group II possibly III oil? I have been mulling this one over for now or maybe the future.

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HSS-15W-40-Black-Diamond-PAO-Z-Full-Synthetic-Tech-Data-Sheet-7-5-2018.pdf?_gl=1*x4hmpq*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTY1MDkxNDQ4Mi4xNjk3NTcyODc5*_ga_STT2SE9P8R*MTY5NzU3Mjg3Ny4xLjAuMTY5NzU3Mjg3Ny42MC4wLjA.

 

[kschachn]

Rebuilt the B-440 engine that is in my '64 Plymouth, I Used HPL break in oil for the new internals/camshaft. Oil has been mostly sitting since break in with maybe another 25 miles since then. I am probably going to use a higher zinc diesel oil. Maybe HPL or maybe this. You think that it's too soon for a 100% synthetic and I should stick to group II possibly III oil? I have been mulling this one over for now or maybe the future.

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HSS-15W-40-Black-Diamond-PAO-Z-Full-Synthetic-Tech-Data-Sheet-7-5-2018.pdf?_gl=1*x4hmpq*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTY1MDkxNDQ4Mi4xNjk3NTcyODc5*_ga_STT2SE9P8R*MTY5NzU3Mjg3Ny4xLjAuMTY5NzU3Mjg3Ny42MC4wLjA.

What’s the base stock composition of the HPL break in oil?

 

[JeffKeryk]

Is the cam a flat tappet or roller? I use the Castrol GTX higher zinc in my 2 60's V8s; they use flat tappet cams.
If I ever pull then apart again, I will stab a hydraulic roller and be done with it.

 

[sloinker]

Is the cam a flat tappet or roller? I use the Castrol GTX higher zinc in my 2 60's V8s; they use flat tappet cams.
If I ever pull then apart again, I will stab a hydraulic roller and be done with it.

Yep, flat tappet with slightly enhanced Melling cam. New lifters/springs/retainers/seals. About 9.5:1 compression. Stock, dingle-berried bores. New rings. Headers, later model SS ignition, double roller, stock forged crank, all new rod/main bearings and rear main seal. Thin head gasket.Rebuilt high volume oil pump. Guessing near 400HP from stock 350 @ crank.
Breaking in cam with HPL

 

[PontiacHO]

As mentioned the Castrol GTX Classic or Valvoline VR-1. Either are fine selections.

 

[wpod]

Rebuilt the B-440 engine that is in my '64 Plymouth, I Used HPL break in oil for the new internals/camshaft. Oil has been mostly sitting since break in with maybe another 25 miles since then. I am probably going to use a higher zinc diesel oil. Maybe HPL or maybe this. You think that it's too soon for a 100% synthetic and I should stick to group II possibly III oil? I have been mulling this one over for now or maybe the future.

https://www.hotshotsecret.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/HSS-15W-40-Black-Diamond-PAO-Z-Full-Synthetic-Tech-Data-Sheet-7-5-2018.pdf?_gl=1*x4hmpq*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTY1MDkxNDQ4Mi4xNjk3NTcyODc5*_ga_STT2SE9P8R*MTY5NzU3Mjg3Ny4xLjAuMTY5NzU3Mjg3Ny42MC4wLjA.

Whyn would it bee too soon to run syn oil if that is you choice of oils?

 

[ledslinger]

I helped a buddy rebuild a 289 Ford in his Donzi Sweet 16 boat. He broke it in on the trailer and then parked it for the winter. In the spring he jacked up part of the Volvo outdrive before it even hit the water and had to pull the engine. He found some rust in the cylinders and we concluded the break in oil and additives were more corrosive than a regular oil fill. I wouldn't leave break in oil in.

 

[zray1]

I helped a buddy rebuild a 289 Ford in his Donzi Sweet 16 boat. He broke it in on the trailer and then parked it for the winter. In the spring he jacked up part of the Volvo outdrive before it even hit the water and had to pull the engine. He found some rust in the cylinders and we concluded the break in oil and additives were more corrosive than a regular oil fill. I wouldn't leave break in oil in.

The rings weren’t seated and It was the excessive blow-by, very corrosive, that was contaminating the oil, not the oil alone, just my anecdotal opinion based on what I’ve seen in these older engines with their looser piston / cylinder specifications. Especially prevalent when the oil is left I m the engine over a period of disuse. If your classic is going to be sitting over the winter, change the oil before hibernation, not afterwards.

 

[zray1]

Yep, flat tappet with slightly enhanced Melling cam…..”

Been using Mobil 1 15w-50 in numerous high end classics with flat tappet engines for about 20+ years. The last 4 or 5 years have transitioned to Mobil 1 0w-40. Well over 100,000 miles on a particular ‘66 Shelby, and more than that cumulatively on several other classics. Those oils are well suited for flat tappet engines. No measurable wear.

I don’t think you will gain anything by using a more expensive oil whether it’s synthetic or conventional.

Z

PS: have used those M-1 products immediately after an overhaul / restoration. No issues with rings not seating, etc. No reason that I can see for staying with a conventional oil for break in, or afterwards.

 

[ledslinger]

The rings weren’t seated and It was the excessive blow-by, very corrosive, that was contaminating the oil, not the oil alone, just my anecdotal opinion based on what I’ve seen in these older engines with their looser piston / cylinder specifications. Especially prevalent when the oil is left I m the engine over a period of disuse. If your classic is going to be sitting over the winter, change the oil before hibernation, not afterwards.

It was bored with new pistons

 

[oil pan 4]

Maybe a synthetic blend sj rated "lawnmower oil" of you want a 5w-30 or 10w-30 that isn't straight synthetic.
Mobil1 v-twin sh rated oil, if full synthetic and 20w-50 is acceptable.
Mobil1 4t oil if full synthetic, sj and 10w-40 is acceptable.
You definitely don't want weak sauce sn oil.

 

[zray1]

It was bored with new pistons

Exactly my point. New pistons / piston rings in a vintage engine don’t seat immediately. There is more blow-by until they do, and it’s corrosive. Even after a break in period, there’s going to be more blow-up with a vintage engine set up to the original specifications.

Clearances are not as tight with a newly restored / overhauled vintage engine as they are with a modern car straight from the factory.


Compared to way vintage engines are built, modern engines have essentially no break in period.

Z

 

[ledslinger]

Thanks for this. I've only been a mechanic since the 1960's and was an automotive machinist at one point.

 

[zray1]

Thanks for this. I've only been a mechanic since the 1960's and was an automotive machinist at one point.

only since the 1960’s ? You’re still a youngster
I assembled my first Ford V-8 in 1957 in Uncle Burls indy repair shop. I was too short to reach the workbench and had to stand on a milk crate.
my last 25 years have had an emphasis on vintage motorcycle and vintage automobile restorations. Keeping the old iron alive does have challenges and rewards in equal measure.

Keep ticking.

 

[ledslinger]

I'm currently partially restoring a 1962 GMC K1000 Suburban, and fixing up my 1972 Norton 750 Commando. Rebuilt the flathead in the 1949 Mercury I had, and had a BSA 441 Victor Special.