New brake pads are too big

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Am I doing something wrong or are modern brake pads milled incorrectly?

I have installed Raybestos on several cars and, more recently, Centric pads on my Odyssey and they all seem to fit a little too tight in the clips. After a few months one or both pads is completely stuck. Filing the ears helps but then they seem to rust quickly, even with grease. Have others seen this issue or is it only relevant to a few models (or am I doing something wrong)?

The only pad I have used that moved freely for 12+ months is the NAPA SilentGuard.
 
Am I doing something wrong or are modern brake pads milled incorrectly?

I have installed Raybestos on several cars and, more recently, Centric pads on my Odyssey and they all seem to fit a little too tight in the clips. After a few months one or both pads is completely stuck. Filing the ears helps but then they seem to rust quickly, even with grease. Have others seen this issue or is it only relevant to a few models (or am I doing something wrong)?

The only pad I have used that moved freely for 12+ months is the NAPA SilentGuard.

Been seeing it for years, especially factory Hyundai pads (in europe, they might not be the same as USA pads).
 
Make sure you use a good brush on the caliper mount bracket, behind the clips. If there’s any rust or grit, it will push the clip outward making it tighter.
No rust or grit. I filed the brackets just to be sure, but the pads are still tight in the clips.

I am assuming your bracket is not rust jacked...
I've never filed pad ears. I do use Honda pads... Fittment is just right. Good luck.
Only very light rust where the grease was washed away. Brushing/filing the bracket did not seem to make a difference. The clips were new 2 months ago. I haven't tried Honda pads but will go that route if this issue continues.
 
Been seeing it for years, especially factory Hyundai pads (in europe, they might not be the same as USA pads).
Maybe the same manufacturer or casting for Hyundai and Raybestos/Centric? Or at least the same measurements? It's disappointing.
 
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Mayne the same manufacturer or casting for Hyundai and Raybestos/Centric? Or at least the same measurements? It's disappointing.

the trick is to grind them down just enough so they move a bit when applying/releasing the brake but not so much that it's noisy. The movement breaks off excess rust, and if the car gets used normally, they will never get stuck. Usually if you take the painy covered burrs off you're there
 
Mayne the same manufacturer or casting for Hyundai and Raybestos/Centric? Or at least the same measurements? It's disappointing.
Geez. Are we all just imaging that parts quality control (especially aftermarket) is declining or is it true? Seems to be true and not just internet amplification. My last install of EBC Ultimax2 have been excellent.......but can we go on anyone's recommendation if quality control is not consistent anymore?

Good luck. And heavy sigh.
 
I’ve had to take a file to the ears on a few brake jobs and never had them rust to the point of being an issue. I’m in northern Ohio so that’s a good test I believe. File em and paint the ears.
 
I’ve had to take a file to the ears on a few brake jobs and never had them rust to the point of being an issue. I’m in northern Ohio so that’s a good test I believe. File em and paint the ears.
Hmm. I never thought of painting them. I just file em, smear on some grease, and stick em in. Next time I will try hitting them with some paint.
 
I have installed Raybestos on several cars and, more recently, Centric pads on my Odyssey and they all seem to fit a little too tight in the clips. After a few months one or both pads is completely stuck. Filing the ears helps but then they seem to rust quickly, even with grease. Have others seen this issue or is it only relevant to a few models (or am I doing something wrong)?
My friend Bill the mechanic says he always adjusts the ears of the pads so they slide easily without binding, else the car will likely come back early when one side is worn out prematurely.
 
There’s only a handful of companies that make brake pad backing plates. NRS is one, while MAT Roulunds stamps them out in India for their brands(Bendix and Dan-Block) and their private label parts store pads.
 
I generally use Akebono brake pads on japanese vehicles never had an issue with them.
I've always used them on my E39 BMW, but I went through three sets that the backing plates were all very slightly undersized and would make knocking noises when applying the brakes. I couldn't believe that was the issue and replaced the carriers and calipers with brand new ATE/BMW factory parts (along with new Akebono pads) and it still knocked when braking...it wasn't until I switched brands of pads fixed the problem. An independent BMW shop I used, said they noticed the same problem with their personal BMWs and a few customer cars and quit using them as it became a bit of a crap shoot if a car would develop clunking noises.

Akebono has always been my favorite pad (for 15 years), now I am unsure if I will ever use them again. :(
 
I've always used them on my E39 BMW, but I went through three sets that the backing plates were all very slightly undersized and would make knocking noises when applying the brakes. I couldn't believe that was the issue and replaced the carriers and calipers with brand new ATE/BMW factory parts (along with new Akebono pads) and it still knocked when braking...it wasn't until I switched brands of pads fixed the problem. An independent BMW shop I used, said they noticed the same problem with their personal BMWs and a few customer cars and quit using them as it became a bit of a crap shoot if a car would develop clunking noises.

Akebono has always been my favorite pad (for 15 years), now I am unsure if I will ever use them again. :(
I’d use them with confidence in Japanese/Korean or American cars(that don’t use ATE calipers). Akebono is an OEM supplier to all the Japanese OEMs, has a JV with HL Mando in Korea and Ford/GM/Mopar uses them. I’ve had the same knocking problem using many aftermarket pads on a Toyota.

I’d stick to Pagid, Textar, Jurid or Mintex on a European car. Wagner seems to be repacking Ferodo pads for their European applications. And now, Mercedes and Volvo are using Indian-made Dan-Block pads for service parts. Subaru and Honda are using ATE calipers now - I see NBK stamped on the pads. Else, I’ve seen Jurid/Pagid/Galfer stamped on ATE pads on BMWs and Fords.
 
I’d use them with confidence in Japanese/Korean or American cars(that don’t use ATE calipers). Akebono is an OEM supplier to all the Japanese OEMs, has a JV with HL Mando in Korea and Ford/GM/Mopar uses them. I’ve had the same knocking problem using many aftermarket pads on a Toyota.
Except in some applications aftermarket Akebono pads are not the same as OE. My Jeep Patriot (some Mitsubishi roots) came with front Akebono calipers and pads. The aftermarket Akebono pads are completely different than the OE pads. I've never used the aftermarket Akebono's to give opinion about them, but this does affect my confidence level.
 
I am assuming your bracket is not rust jacked...
I've never filed pad ears. I do use Honda pads... Fittment is just right. Good luck.
I filed a bunch of cheap rockauto pads.
Good brand names like Akebono, hawk and OEM I never had a problem.
Often cheaper backing plates get stamped out and they dont tumble them to debur them.
NRS pads are galvanized to avoid this problem altogether and are well made.
 
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