My wife’s 14 Rogue. I’m not motivated to maintain.

My wife bought this car before we were married. She bought it used. It has 70k miles. Its condition is not confidence inspiring. It runs and shifts fine thankfully. There’s no sign of the transmission going bad, but the cabin does vibrate when in Drive at idle.

I did a CVT drain and fill. The fluid was dark brown. The CVT dipstick was broken, the metal indicator gone. Only the plastic cap remained. The refrigerant high/low caps were gone. The coolant overflow reservoir cap was gone. This car just does not enthrall me. Most cars I maintain well, I have a pride of ownership. This car instills no satisfaction, which means I want to neglect it.

Given the Nissan Rogue’s CVT reputation, how hog-Wild should I go maintaining this thing? I want to do a simple OCI at 7k miles, drain and fill the CVT every 30k miles and put on cheap Fram Ultra filters. Usually I spray undercoating on my cars for the winter salt slush, but this rogue, I want to neglect it.

Anyone have experience with these Rogues? If they are maintained diligently, do they last? I can rust proof it, but only if I can get 7+ years and 50k miles out of it before any costly repair occurs. If this car is doomed to have a transmission failure within the next few years, I’d rather not invest so much TIME into it. Thanks.
Buy wife a new car.
 
Buy wife a new car.
That probably costs more than just replacing the trans when it dies. Which it might do regardless of any maintenance.

I’ve deferring work on our CRV. I figure, it only has a couple of years left. Why sweat the details?
 
The Rogue Select - made in Japan are more INFINITI than current Renault Nissan junk. I really enjoyed mine. but no one would sell me an extended service contract that covered the CVT when I was approaching 70k
. So I chickened out and got a junky VW Jetta lease cheap back then (2019)
 
I had a 2016 Rogue SL awd that my son now has. 150k miles on the original trans and the only repair I had to make was the water pump. I changed the CVT fluid at 103k when I bought it (actually the dealership did) and I told him it is due for another change.

It doesn’t have a dipstick.

If maintained and driven decently, these are great cars. The 2016 SL awd is why I bought my 2019 SL awd, which I enjoy for my daily commute. There are many cars I’d rather have, but this one, and my last one checked a lot of boxes for an affordable price. You should maintain it.

This right here.
 
Same situation. Thread rings true to me. Wife bought a Sentra before I met her. Got married, didn’t know what to do with it. She’s not a car person and her mom advised a Nissan because their family liked their Maximas in the 90s - totally different beasts.

I figured that while a ton of the CVTs failed, I didn’t estimate it was >50% of them based on how many Nissans are still on the road kicking it so I figured the odds were still in our favor. Maybe someone here knows the actual statistics. Even then, a transmission would be cheaper than a new car. And the MR20DE is a solid engine and the rest of the car gave me no qualms. Indeed even the most reliable car could be totaled in a collision anyway so I stopped sweating it and lo and behold, 14 years later it’s running great. Its not the car I would have bought but I’m totally happy with it because at this point it owes me nothing. The insurance is dirt cheap and regular maintenance is so easy on it.
 
Funny I just did a CV shaft on a '13 Select at ~175k. I used a "heavy duty" Dorman to at least get the TPE outer boot.

Although "heavy duty Dorman" is like "aircraft grade aluminum" or "high impact ABS plastic" ;)

I actually ordered a replacement boot to re-boot the OEM for when the Dorman soils the bed....
I used shafts from Napa. I thought about Oem since they have some sort of vibration dampening but I couldn’t stomach the price on a 15 yr old car. Plus I gave it to my daughter to drive to Toledo and back to the hospital she works at. She spends half of her 130 mile drive hitting potholes and running on the rumble strips on the shoulder. The other 65 miles is pulling whole shots from red light to red light. The Napa parts were actually as good as what came off. Sure, they won’t last 180k, but with a lifetime warranty who cares. I babied this car as it was my daily for a long time. She brings it over EVENTUALLY for service, and I just shake my head and wipe a tear. She’s a nurse practitioner and will be an MD by 2027 so I’m proud as punch. She just hard on cars and always has been. She could expose a design flaw from Lockheed Martin.
 
My wife bought this car before we were married. She bought it used. It has 70k miles. Its condition is not confidence inspiring. It runs and shifts fine thankfully. There’s no sign of the transmission going bad, but the cabin does vibrate when in Drive at idle.

I did a CVT drain and fill. The fluid was dark brown. The CVT dipstick was broken, the metal indicator gone. Only the plastic cap remained. The refrigerant high/low caps were gone. The coolant overflow reservoir cap was gone. This car just does not enthrall me. Most cars I maintain well, I have a pride of ownership. This car instills no satisfaction, which means I want to neglect it.

Given the Nissan Rogue’s CVT reputation, how hog-Wild should I go maintaining this thing? I want to do a simple OCI at 7k miles, drain and fill the CVT every 30k miles and put on cheap Fram Ultra filters. Usually I spray undercoating on my cars for the winter salt slush, but this rogue, I want to neglect it.

Anyone have experience with these Rogues? If they are maintained diligently, do they last? I can rust proof it, but only if I can get 7+ years and 50k miles out of it before any costly repair occurs. If this car is doomed to have a transmission failure within the next few years, I’d rather not invest so much TIME into it. Thanks.
Do you still own the rogue?

They idle rough (its a 2.5L Rogue thing) though the engine is easy on oil. I use whatever 0w20 i get on sale that meets spec and same goes for filters.

Not sure what year they done away with the dip stick it’s just a cap. I did a fluid drain and refill at 60k along with cooler filter some 3500 miles ago cvt is fine.

It’s a fine auto for daily commute. I too have had a bad attitude maintaining some autos I’ve had between self and the wife but never neglected their maintenance.
 
Do you still own the rogue?

They idle rough (its a 2.5L Rogue thing) though the engine is easy on oil. I use whatever 0w20 i get on sale that meets spec and same goes for filters.

Not sure what year they done away with the dip stick it’s just a cap. I did a fluid drain and refill at 60k along with cooler filter some 3500 miles ago cvt is fine.

It’s a fine auto for daily commute. I too have had a bad attitude maintaining some autos I’ve had between self and the wife but never neglected their maintenance.
I think you can maybe get a dipstick? I seem to remember reading that?

The '14 Select I just worked on had a dipstick. I think that was the final MY the Select was offered before they fully committed to the new platform?
 
I think you can maybe get a dipstick? I seem to remember reading that?

The '14 Select I just worked on had a dipstick. I think that was the final MY the Select was offered before they fully committed to the new platform?
You can I did off eBay
 
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I sold the rogue today for $2300. I drove it all the way to Houston from Atlanta to sell it. Texas doesn’t have the same overbearing restrictions as Georgia for rebuilt vehicle registration. The Rogue is finally gone. Cheers!
 
I’m not sure about the 14 but our 18 has been, dare I say and probably curse myself. One of the best vehicles we’ve ever owned. A couple of batteries, annual cvt maintenance as well as early diff and transfer case fluid and it’s been bulletproof. We ran this thing to our Condo in Myrtle beach several times loaded for bear through the heart of the Appalachians and never so much as a hiccup. I routinely average over 30 mpg with 4 adults and gear. Upgrading the brakes to brembo rotors and pads made a huge difference as Nissan can’t get past using motorcycle sized rear pads. I’ve changed the oil religiously every 5k, outside of my last run with schaeffers and uses not a drop at 96k. In northern Ohio I see newer Chevy trucks rusted to beat the band, yet this thing remains pristine. Rip on Nissans all people want, but I’ll keep buying them. A lot of car for your money and with a little common sense and a few tools will last a long time. Of course so do most cars with some maintenance. Now a new rogue? No way! I get lots of them for rentals traveling for work. The only way I would take a new rogue is if it was free.
 
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You can I did off eBay
No dipstick needed. Cvtz app or a scanguage. I drain and refill with 4 qts, then get the trans to 104 degrees, open the leveling bolt and let it run till it hiccups then cap it off. On a flat drive you can do all this without ramps or even a jack. There’s enough clearance. Usually a 1/4 of a quart comes out and no guessing if it’s over or underfilled. Under isn’t necessarily bad but over can be catastrophic in a hurry.
 
I used a brush. It’s thicker and lasts longer that way. It’s also cheaper buying the pales than the spray cans
I started reading this thread and for some reason your yearly oil undercoating kept popping up. I want to comment on what I did to my car here in Minnesota, in a first ring suburb of Minneapolis. This has to top be one of the top 5 places in the USA for salt use in the winter. I did see you now use Fluid Film or you used "oil undercoating" as a descriptor of Fluid Film.

Just asking it appears you like to do it yearly and you live in "Atlanta" ???. I daily drive my lowered 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD year round and I sprayed everything down under the paper fiber underside guards, and all the sub frames, suspension and inside panels the first mid summer month I bought it new. By the time fall came I had 10lbs of sand on every part and surface that was not under the belly pan guards. The sand help bind and protect the FF, so no splashing affects the coating.

To this day, 6 years later it is still there with ZERO rust. That's even with me bashing salt filled snow banks from the plow cross streets and salt water baths from salt puddles we see here when above 32 degs. No degradation of my coatings thanks to the sand binding protection. I never needed to touch a thing again, other then when new high perf suspension parts went into it, they got a sprayed. Your using Fluid Film and you live in Atlanta, I think you can retire now with your undercoating. :) And my car only gets washed about 6 times during the winter to top it off.

Look at all time you now can save that your yearly uncoating will only have to be done ONCE on all your cars. :)
 
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I sold the rogue today for $2300. I drove it all the way to Houston from Atlanta to sell it. Texas doesn’t have the same overbearing restrictions as Georgia for rebuilt vehicle registration. The Rogue is finally gone. Cheers!
Thank you for the update. Insane but effective effort. I fall asleep on the highway after an hour; it rocks me like a baby in a cradle.
 
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If you
Do you still own the rogue?

They idle rough (its a 2.5L Rogue thing) though the engine is easy on oil. I use whatever 0w20 i get on sale that meets spec and same goes for filters.

Not sure what year they done away with the dip stick it’s just a cap. I did a fluid drain and refill at 60k along with cooler filter some 3500 miles ago cvt is fine.

It’s a fine auto for daily commute. I too have had a bad attitude maintaining some autos I’ve had between self and the wife but never neglected their maintenance.
If you think the 2.5 idles rough, which I honestly don’t. I dare you to drive the new ones with the turbo charged 3 cylinder. Those idle like a 1970s evinrude. I’m surprisingly shocked how peppy and deep throated they sound though. I spent almost a month driving 3 different ones from hertz and can definitely say I wouldn’t own one unless it was an SL and was some sort of a raffle prize. Plastic oil pans and an engine that I can’t believe wouldn’t have major issues down the road. Minus the early pre cat issues, the 2.5 has been one of Nissans most reliable engines.
 
If you

If you think the 2.5 idles rough, which I honestly don’t. I dare you to drive the new ones with the turbo charged 3 cylinder. Those idle like a 1970s evinrude. I’m surprisingly shocked how peppy and deep throated they sound though. I spent almost a month driving 3 different ones from hertz and can definitely say I wouldn’t own one unless it was an SL and was some sort of a raffle prize. Plastic oil pans and an engine that I can’t believe wouldn’t have major issues down the road. Minus the early pre cat issues, the 2.5 has been one of Nissans most reliable engines.
My wife is leasing the latest rogue so I’m familiar. Yes reliable nothing bad to say on the 2.5 but numerous web searches turn up rough idle on the 2.5 in the rogue’s
 
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