I think so.
Frank D
Frank D
My experiences with thin oil
- Thread starter HTSS_TR
- Start date
- Status
with a thicker oil, you are going to generate more pumping losses from friction. under most circumstances, this will be minimal, but in Death Valley it isn't. my friend's MSM miata oil temp went down 40F when he changed to 0w30 from 0w40 (270F to 230F) in Death Valley runs. it all depends on how close to the edge the cooling system is.
in another study the contribution of the oil pump to total engine cooling load was ~9%, although they didn't study it's variation with viscosity.
as always, doug's comments are quite illuminating. one of the reasons i have felt comfortable in recommending 0w20 syn in the miata is that the AUS manual shows a whole range of oils (dino)for differing temps (including both 20 and 20w20 oils, a callout i don't even come close to understanding).
in another study the contribution of the oil pump to total engine cooling load was ~9%, although they didn't study it's variation with viscosity.
as always, doug's comments are quite illuminating. one of the reasons i have felt comfortable in recommending 0w20 syn in the miata is that the AUS manual shows a whole range of oils (dino)for differing temps (including both 20 and 20w20 oils, a callout i don't even come close to understanding).
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: cheetahdriver
with a thicker oil, you are going to generate more pumping losses from friction. under most circumstances, this will be minimal, but in Death Valley it isn't. my friend's MSM miata oil temp went down 40F when he changed to 0w30 from 0w40 (270F to 230F) in Death Valley runs. it all depends on how close to the edge the cooling system is.
in another study the contribution of the oil pump to total engine cooling load was ~9%, although they didn't study it's variation with viscosity.
as always, doug's comments are quite illuminating. one of the reasons i have felt comfortable in recommending 0w20 syn in the miata is that the AUS manual shows a whole range of oils (dino)for differing temps (including both 20 and 20w20 oils, a callout i don't even come close to understanding).
Does the Miata have an oil cooler? 40 degrees from a 40 to a 30wt when the oil is already screaming hot is hard to believe.
Same brand and type?
with a thicker oil, you are going to generate more pumping losses from friction. under most circumstances, this will be minimal, but in Death Valley it isn't. my friend's MSM miata oil temp went down 40F when he changed to 0w30 from 0w40 (270F to 230F) in Death Valley runs. it all depends on how close to the edge the cooling system is.
in another study the contribution of the oil pump to total engine cooling load was ~9%, although they didn't study it's variation with viscosity.
as always, doug's comments are quite illuminating. one of the reasons i have felt comfortable in recommending 0w20 syn in the miata is that the AUS manual shows a whole range of oils (dino)for differing temps (including both 20 and 20w20 oils, a callout i don't even come close to understanding).
Does the Miata have an oil cooler? 40 degrees from a 40 to a 30wt when the oil is already screaming hot is hard to believe.
Same brand and type?
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
vxcalais - Your question is broad and therefore the answer must be broad too!
Firstly, multi-grade lubricants were introduced in the 1950s for a number of reasons - one was to provide an all year round product. 10w-30 was really the firste and it suited US engines of the time very well indeed. Another reason for multigrade development was to "cover" the emerging technologies, hench the 20W-50 lubricant that was expressly developed in 1958-9 for the BMC Mini!
20W-50 quickly became a "cover all" viscosity that masked a lot of the technical defects in design prevalent at the time! The expansion of viscosities (ranges) over the last 20 years or so is quite amazing. Many have been introduced to satisfy a variety of "reasons" again - many if not most may have very little to do with the engine manufacturer's wishes or needs
Heavy Diesel Engines
In Australia the most common viscosity used is 15W-40 - across the trucking, mining and earthmoving Industries. Some Euro engines now use lower cold start viscosities and 5W-40 is but one and a number of 10W-40 HDEOs are now available too
Cars
The obvious answer is surely "the lowest viscosity recommended by the engine's manufacturer for the expected ambient temperature range" according to the application
In Australia and New Zealand we still have a large following for the 20W-50 "fits all" theory - surely this is a hangup from the English vehicles that dominated our markets here for so very long?
1 - Practicality
The most popular car service point here in Airlie Beach uses Castrol's RX Super 15W-40 HDEO across the board! This is in Rollers, Benzes, Maseratis, Porsches, Corvettes, Mustangs, Ferraris, Buicks and Volkswagens - and everything in between, both old and new! The ambient range is from -10 to near 50C!
The service point's owner is a well trained ex. BMW Service Engineer and a good friend
This type of servcing approach is very common in OZ and comes from Oil Company Reps. selling a "multi-fit" lubricant to limit inventory requirements, price and etc
Bad example: One independent Porsche service point in Sydney filled most engines with a 25W-50 mineral lubricant - a viscosity NEVER recommended by Porsche - primarily "to get good hot idle oil pressure". Some Porsche engines have 32 hydraulically controlled valves and lubricant intercoolers. In temperatures around 5C and below there is a definte "hydraulic" feel to these engine when using this lubricant.The manufacturer recommends a 5W-40 synthetic lubricant.
There is NO concrete evidence of excessive wear in these engines when using the 25W-50 lubricant (instead of a synthetic 5W-40) but the engines were never operating optimally!
2) - Reality
a - Use what is recommended by the engine's manufacturer! They know what is required for the wide application of their engines
b - Here (generally) Audi use a synthetic 5W-40, MB and Porsche use 0W-40. Many BMW Dealers use 0W-40 too. I understand that most Deealerships follow the manufacturer's Warranty line on viscosities very well here in OZ
3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application
Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) - and in many different engine families, I used Castrol's excellent synthetic 10W-60 - a lubricant that I helped to develop. I bought a VL Commodore new and it had a diet of that lubricant until 160kkms. The beautiful Nissan engine was still operating as new when sold! It had 10kkms OCIs
Today in my cars and light trucks I only use synthetic lubricants, a 0W-40 lubricant in many engines and 5W-40 in many others. One Toyota engine is on a 10W-40 semi-synthetic
I use of a lubricant with a HTHS viscosity of around 4cP in my Porsche engines (3.5cP is the minimum needed) due to the fact that I live in the Tropics and at times drive fast for hours on end at temperatures from 33-40C. Spirited driving is the descrition I think! These engines (M28 M96 etc) may be "sensitive" to lubricants with a low HTHS viscosity in certain operating environments
Summary
Use what the engine manufacturer recommends.
Synthetics have worked for me for years and perhaps outside of what the manufacturer recommends, and to answer your broad question, either a 0W-40 or a 5W-40 viscoity for Melbourne/Sydney is a broad answer and maybe a wise choice too
lol. Sorry guys, i let him outta the cage
Hi,
vxcalais - Your question is broad and therefore the answer must be broad too!
Firstly, multi-grade lubricants were introduced in the 1950s for a number of reasons - one was to provide an all year round product. 10w-30 was really the firste and it suited US engines of the time very well indeed. Another reason for multigrade development was to "cover" the emerging technologies, hench the 20W-50 lubricant that was expressly developed in 1958-9 for the BMC Mini!
20W-50 quickly became a "cover all" viscosity that masked a lot of the technical defects in design prevalent at the time! The expansion of viscosities (ranges) over the last 20 years or so is quite amazing. Many have been introduced to satisfy a variety of "reasons" again - many if not most may have very little to do with the engine manufacturer's wishes or needs
Heavy Diesel Engines
In Australia the most common viscosity used is 15W-40 - across the trucking, mining and earthmoving Industries. Some Euro engines now use lower cold start viscosities and 5W-40 is but one and a number of 10W-40 HDEOs are now available too
Cars
The obvious answer is surely "the lowest viscosity recommended by the engine's manufacturer for the expected ambient temperature range" according to the application
In Australia and New Zealand we still have a large following for the 20W-50 "fits all" theory - surely this is a hangup from the English vehicles that dominated our markets here for so very long?
1 - Practicality
The most popular car service point here in Airlie Beach uses Castrol's RX Super 15W-40 HDEO across the board! This is in Rollers, Benzes, Maseratis, Porsches, Corvettes, Mustangs, Ferraris, Buicks and Volkswagens - and everything in between, both old and new! The ambient range is from -10 to near 50C!
The service point's owner is a well trained ex. BMW Service Engineer and a good friend
This type of servcing approach is very common in OZ and comes from Oil Company Reps. selling a "multi-fit" lubricant to limit inventory requirements, price and etc
Bad example: One independent Porsche service point in Sydney filled most engines with a 25W-50 mineral lubricant - a viscosity NEVER recommended by Porsche - primarily "to get good hot idle oil pressure". Some Porsche engines have 32 hydraulically controlled valves and lubricant intercoolers. In temperatures around 5C and below there is a definte "hydraulic" feel to these engine when using this lubricant.The manufacturer recommends a 5W-40 synthetic lubricant.
There is NO concrete evidence of excessive wear in these engines when using the 25W-50 lubricant (instead of a synthetic 5W-40) but the engines were never operating optimally!
2) - Reality
a - Use what is recommended by the engine's manufacturer! They know what is required for the wide application of their engines
b - Here (generally) Audi use a synthetic 5W-40, MB and Porsche use 0W-40. Many BMW Dealers use 0W-40 too. I understand that most Deealerships follow the manufacturer's Warranty line on viscosities very well here in OZ
3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application
Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) - and in many different engine families, I used Castrol's excellent synthetic 10W-60 - a lubricant that I helped to develop. I bought a VL Commodore new and it had a diet of that lubricant until 160kkms. The beautiful Nissan engine was still operating as new when sold! It had 10kkms OCIs
Today in my cars and light trucks I only use synthetic lubricants, a 0W-40 lubricant in many engines and 5W-40 in many others. One Toyota engine is on a 10W-40 semi-synthetic
I use of a lubricant with a HTHS viscosity of around 4cP in my Porsche engines (3.5cP is the minimum needed) due to the fact that I live in the Tropics and at times drive fast for hours on end at temperatures from 33-40C. Spirited driving is the descrition I think! These engines (M28 M96 etc) may be "sensitive" to lubricants with a low HTHS viscosity in certain operating environments
Summary
Use what the engine manufacturer recommends.
Synthetics have worked for me for years and perhaps outside of what the manufacturer recommends, and to answer your broad question, either a 0W-40 or a 5W-40 viscoity for Melbourne/Sydney is a broad answer and maybe a wise choice too
lol. Sorry guys, i let him outta the cage
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Does the Miata have an oil cooler? 40 degrees from a 40 to a 30wt when the oil is already screaming hot is hard to believe.
Same brand and type?
no, the MSM doesn't, and i think it should have from the factory, obviously the combo of hot and dry puts it over the edge. the gentleman in question is installing an aftermarket one now. both oils were M1, he actually did this over the course of a week, saved the oil and put the 0w40 back in for a track day.
it makes me wonder how much bypass (if any) was going on at the pump... i once burned up a Hydraulic Power Unit in my early days as an engineer by not understanding that a gear pump in bypass generates a tremendous amount of heat. either way, the difference shocked me, but one of the wise men here said they had seen similar results before.
Does the Miata have an oil cooler? 40 degrees from a 40 to a 30wt when the oil is already screaming hot is hard to believe.
Same brand and type?
no, the MSM doesn't, and i think it should have from the factory, obviously the combo of hot and dry puts it over the edge. the gentleman in question is installing an aftermarket one now. both oils were M1, he actually did this over the course of a week, saved the oil and put the 0w40 back in for a track day.
it makes me wonder how much bypass (if any) was going on at the pump... i once burned up a Hydraulic Power Unit in my early days as an engineer by not understanding that a gear pump in bypass generates a tremendous amount of heat. either way, the difference shocked me, but one of the wise men here said they had seen similar results before.
Good response Doug, one that will leave me quite confident. I thought i'd ask, in the Commodore scene, the Castrol Edge 10W60 is quite popular, is it still the same oil it was ? They also have the 0W40 as you'd know.
For the VX - VY ecotecs, Holden always recommended 10W30. But they would never use it themselves saying too thin etc, as well as REpco and so on, saying 10W40 is the correct one. Also in the VT 20W50 is spec'ed for the same engine. There was always the aura that Holden only spece'd 10W30 and now to meet/pass emission specs and it was never really the best oil for it.
It just so happens that i burn anything less that a 40 especially at 200,000k's. 5W40 will me my aim weight.
Doug, just back to Castrol, the edge 25W50 they have, strange that its only a SG/CD oil, even as a race specific oil.
For the VX - VY ecotecs, Holden always recommended 10W30. But they would never use it themselves saying too thin etc, as well as REpco and so on, saying 10W40 is the correct one. Also in the VT 20W50 is spec'ed for the same engine. There was always the aura that Holden only spece'd 10W30 and now to meet/pass emission specs and it was never really the best oil for it.
It just so happens that i burn anything less that a 40 especially at 200,000k's. 5W40 will me my aim weight.
Doug, just back to Castrol, the edge 25W50 they have, strange that its only a SG/CD oil, even as a race specific oil.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BigJohn
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I wish Amsoil made a 100% synthetic in 5W-20, I think it would be very popular. But I realize they can't make every possible combination.
What's wrong with their ASM 0w-20?
Well, I'm sure it's good oil, but my engine is not spec'd for it, just 5W-30 and 5W-20.
By way of a Toyota Service bulletin, saying that they now approve T4R's for 5W20....I was ALL OVER, beginning to use M1 0W20....which is a superior oil to 5w20.
Honestly, I would like to see the Toyota Lab prove that they can.... #1 determine that 0w20 is worse than 5w20....and #2 determine that the 0w20 in the engine caused any trouble with any warranty work that will be needed.
Um. Most Toyota applications recommend 0W-20 along with 5W-20...
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: hate2work
I wish Amsoil made a 100% synthetic in 5W-20, I think it would be very popular. But I realize they can't make every possible combination.
What's wrong with their ASM 0w-20?
Well, I'm sure it's good oil, but my engine is not spec'd for it, just 5W-30 and 5W-20.
By way of a Toyota Service bulletin, saying that they now approve T4R's for 5W20....I was ALL OVER, beginning to use M1 0W20....which is a superior oil to 5w20.
Honestly, I would like to see the Toyota Lab prove that they can.... #1 determine that 0w20 is worse than 5w20....and #2 determine that the 0w20 in the engine caused any trouble with any warranty work that will be needed.
Um. Most Toyota applications recommend 0W-20 along with 5W-20...
Hi,
vxcalais - In trying to answer some of your questions;
I believe the latest Castrol Edge 10W-60 is an ongoing development of the original and now forms part of the synthetic "Edge" family. I've been led to believe that an enhanced formulation is the one used by BMW through their Dealers around the World but I cannot confirm this
Castrol's Edge 0W-40 synthetic has many Factory Approvals and Listings and has a very good reputation. At $69 for 5ltrs against M1 0W-40 at $96 it represents a bargain for some. I prefer the more advanced structure of M1 0W-40, and the Castrol product is somewhat less viscous at high temperatures
Castrol have long recommended a 10W-40 or 20W-50 for the various engines you mention. They also recommend a 10W-30 too!
Mobil have mostly stuck with M1 10W-30 - it follows the GF-2 and GF-3 requirements from GM and Mobil's close relationship with GM worldwide (I hope GM is paying their bills!)
We have had success with 5W-40 synthetics in many of these engines and over large distances
As for Castrol's 25W-50, many race or "sports" type lubricants from a number of Blenders have been rivetted in the older officially obsolete API classifications. There are a number of reasons for this such as anticipated application, marketing and perhaps "popular" formulation expectations
It should also be noted that after the BP takeover of Burmah-Castrol many of their lubricants became homogeneous with those of BP and vice-versa
I hope this is of some help
vxcalais - In trying to answer some of your questions;
I believe the latest Castrol Edge 10W-60 is an ongoing development of the original and now forms part of the synthetic "Edge" family. I've been led to believe that an enhanced formulation is the one used by BMW through their Dealers around the World but I cannot confirm this
Castrol's Edge 0W-40 synthetic has many Factory Approvals and Listings and has a very good reputation. At $69 for 5ltrs against M1 0W-40 at $96 it represents a bargain for some. I prefer the more advanced structure of M1 0W-40, and the Castrol product is somewhat less viscous at high temperatures
Castrol have long recommended a 10W-40 or 20W-50 for the various engines you mention. They also recommend a 10W-30 too!
Mobil have mostly stuck with M1 10W-30 - it follows the GF-2 and GF-3 requirements from GM and Mobil's close relationship with GM worldwide (I hope GM is paying their bills!)
We have had success with 5W-40 synthetics in many of these engines and over large distances
As for Castrol's 25W-50, many race or "sports" type lubricants from a number of Blenders have been rivetted in the older officially obsolete API classifications. There are a number of reasons for this such as anticipated application, marketing and perhaps "popular" formulation expectations
It should also be noted that after the BP takeover of Burmah-Castrol many of their lubricants became homogeneous with those of BP and vice-versa
I hope this is of some help
Originally Posted By: vxcalais
lol. Sorry guys, i let him outta the cage
No problem. Doug Hillary' posts are highly regarded by most, if not all, who has more than 10 posts.
Almost, if not all, everything he said was valid based on his experiences in the field. But my driving conditions is not the same as his nor the worse case that manufacture tried to encompass, therefore I tried thinner oil than recommended.
lol. Sorry guys, i let him outta the cage
No problem. Doug Hillary' posts are highly regarded by most, if not all, who has more than 10 posts.
Almost, if not all, everything he said was valid based on his experiences in the field. But my driving conditions is not the same as his nor the worse case that manufacture tried to encompass, therefore I tried thinner oil than recommended.
I just returned from night one of the $50,000 to win sprintcar race in Sydney (to wounded to stay for night two, double bourbons does that). I called in to a Mobil servo on the way back for 'fluids'. Amazed to see M1 5W30 in one litre bottles on the shelf and Mobil 3000 in 5W30. Not a viscosity Mobil have had in Australia before. Interesting that...
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
vxcalais - In trying to answer some of your questions;
I believe the latest Castrol Edge 10W-60 is an ongoing development of the original and now forms part of the synthetic "Edge" family. I've been led to believe that an enhanced formulation is the one used by BMW through their Dealers around the World but I cannot confirm this
Castrol's Edge 0W-40 synthetic has many Factory Approvals and Listings and has a very good reputation. At $69 for 5ltrs against M1 0W-40 at $96 it represents a bargain for some. I prefer the more advanced structure of M1 0W-40, and the Castrol product is somewhat less viscous at high temperatures
Castrol have long recommended a 10W-40 or 20W-50 for the various engines you mention. They also recommend a 10W-30 too!
Mobil have mostly stuck with M1 10W-30 - it follows the GF-2 and GF-3 requirements from GM and Mobil's close relationship with GM worldwide (I hope GM is paying their bills!)
We have had success with 5W-40 synthetics in many of these engines and over large distances
As for Castrol's 25W-50, many race or "sports" type lubricants from a number of Blenders have been rivetted in the older officially obsolete API classifications. There are a number of reasons for this such as anticipated application, marketing and perhaps "popular" formulation expectations
It should also be noted that after the BP takeover of Burmah-Castrol many of their lubricants became homogeneous with those of BP and vice-versa
I hope this is of some help
Im sure the BP/Castrol merger was for the best, but my biggest disappointment is them getting rid of fantastic oils like BP Visco 5000 5W40 and Visco 3000 from Australian market. Even Coarse Plus etc. Some of the best oils they were.
Hi,
vxcalais - In trying to answer some of your questions;
I believe the latest Castrol Edge 10W-60 is an ongoing development of the original and now forms part of the synthetic "Edge" family. I've been led to believe that an enhanced formulation is the one used by BMW through their Dealers around the World but I cannot confirm this
Castrol's Edge 0W-40 synthetic has many Factory Approvals and Listings and has a very good reputation. At $69 for 5ltrs against M1 0W-40 at $96 it represents a bargain for some. I prefer the more advanced structure of M1 0W-40, and the Castrol product is somewhat less viscous at high temperatures
Castrol have long recommended a 10W-40 or 20W-50 for the various engines you mention. They also recommend a 10W-30 too!
Mobil have mostly stuck with M1 10W-30 - it follows the GF-2 and GF-3 requirements from GM and Mobil's close relationship with GM worldwide (I hope GM is paying their bills!)
We have had success with 5W-40 synthetics in many of these engines and over large distances
As for Castrol's 25W-50, many race or "sports" type lubricants from a number of Blenders have been rivetted in the older officially obsolete API classifications. There are a number of reasons for this such as anticipated application, marketing and perhaps "popular" formulation expectations
It should also be noted that after the BP takeover of Burmah-Castrol many of their lubricants became homogeneous with those of BP and vice-versa
I hope this is of some help
Im sure the BP/Castrol merger was for the best, but my biggest disappointment is them getting rid of fantastic oils like BP Visco 5000 5W40 and Visco 3000 from Australian market. Even Coarse Plus etc. Some of the best oils they were.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
FWIW:
There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.
BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....
Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?
Well, I used to race a car with 0W-5, (I know, no such SAE grade, but it was like water) so does that count ??
Documented on here a few times. Formula Ford 1600 fifteen years ago. NEO 0W-5. 7000 RPM max revs. Only 30PSI oil pressure at 6500RPM. Needed to revise clearances and finishes for maximum life.
FWIW:
There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.
BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....
Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?
Well, I used to race a car with 0W-5, (I know, no such SAE grade, but it was like water) so does that count ??
Documented on here a few times. Formula Ford 1600 fifteen years ago. NEO 0W-5. 7000 RPM max revs. Only 30PSI oil pressure at 6500RPM. Needed to revise clearances and finishes for maximum life.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: vxcalais
Doug, just back to Castrol, the edge 25W50 they have, strange that its only a SG/CD oil, even as a race specific oil.
Not really. Some of the metallic ash additives are too high to comply with later API requirements.
It was also mentioned once by a Castrol marketing bloke that they could charge a premium price for an average oil by re-naming it. He didn't name the oil either but it gives food for thought.
Doug, just back to Castrol, the edge 25W50 they have, strange that its only a SG/CD oil, even as a race specific oil.
Not really. Some of the metallic ash additives are too high to comply with later API requirements.
It was also mentioned once by a Castrol marketing bloke that they could charge a premium price for an average oil by re-naming it. He didn't name the oil either but it gives food for thought.
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application
Went to Sydney over the break and wanted to get some Motul Gear 300.
Walked into the nearest Autobarn from my sisters house and looked at the selection ($40/litre...ouch !) and was checking out their range when the store manager approaches.
"you look confused.." No, just looking "do you know that Nulon has a range of oils now " hmm, wonder who blends it for them "they make it themselves, and anyway, just three companies make oil worldwide, Castrol, Shell and Mobil" Ok, and I walked.....
Quote:
Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) -
That's my old stamping ground but didn't escape till '01.
Didn't get quite as far north as you though
3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application
Went to Sydney over the break and wanted to get some Motul Gear 300.
Walked into the nearest Autobarn from my sisters house and looked at the selection ($40/litre...ouch !) and was checking out their range when the store manager approaches.
"you look confused.." No, just looking "do you know that Nulon has a range of oils now " hmm, wonder who blends it for them "they make it themselves, and anyway, just three companies make oil worldwide, Castrol, Shell and Mobil" Ok, and I walked.....
Quote:
Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) -
That's my old stamping ground but didn't escape till '01.
Didn't get quite as far north as you though
Autobarn in general are ok, depends who owns, them, the older folk wiht some knowledge etc. Just this week, one particular Autobarn upset me, i will never go there again. I was looking for some paint to paint my rotor hubs and a couple walked in, for some reason they told the manager they used diesel oil in their cars.....straight away he told them they have poison in there, theres a chemical in it that shouldnt be in the engine and so on. Fair enough they had a Hyundai and so on, but at least ask them first what oil they used exactly. If it was a striaght diesel oil ok, but what if it was mixed spec ? SO he sell em Valvoline XLF Engien armour, a filter on special, and sold them some engine flush !!! telling them they had to flush it first etc etc......rip off !
Nearly all except 1 of the Castrol Oils meets SM rating. Probably one of the GTX range they could market differently, but with all the Money gone to Gilly, Magnatec is their main money maker i reckon.
Originally Posted By: vxcalais
....straight away he told them they have poison in there, theres a chemical in it that shouldnt be in the engine and so on.
I forgot the clincher, a woman walked in and asked for sewing machine oil, and he told her she needed castor oil
"yep, all that light stuff is castor oil, that's what you need.."
fair dinkum
.....
....straight away he told them they have poison in there, theres a chemical in it that shouldnt be in the engine and so on.
I forgot the clincher, a woman walked in and asked for sewing machine oil, and he told her she needed castor oil
"yep, all that light stuff is castor oil, that's what you need.."
fair dinkum
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: tdi-rick
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
FWIW:
There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.
BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....
Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?
Well, I used to race a car with 0W-5, (I know, no such SAE grade, but it was like water) so does that count ??
Documented on here a few times. Formula Ford 1600 fifteen years ago. NEO 0W-5. 7000 RPM max revs. Only 30PSI oil pressure at 6500RPM. Needed to revise clearances and finishes for maximum life.
But they weren't daily drivers right
That's all I'm getting at. Race engines are normally not expected to last as long as passenger car engines.
I would imagine the oil viscosity that Porsche runs in LeMans is not the same as they spec for the Carerra....?
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
FWIW:
There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.
BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....
Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?
Well, I used to race a car with 0W-5, (I know, no such SAE grade, but it was like water) so does that count ??
Documented on here a few times. Formula Ford 1600 fifteen years ago. NEO 0W-5. 7000 RPM max revs. Only 30PSI oil pressure at 6500RPM. Needed to revise clearances and finishes for maximum life.
But they weren't daily drivers right
That's all I'm getting at. Race engines are normally not expected to last as long as passenger car engines.
I would imagine the oil viscosity that Porsche runs in LeMans is not the same as they spec for the Carerra....?
Hi,
OVERK1ll - You said this;
"I would imagine the oil viscosity that Porsche runs in LeMans is not the same as they spec for the Carerra....?"
Porsche and many privateers mainly use M1 0W-40. I'll know more after an update at Zuffenhausen in April
At one stage here in OZ the Porsche GT race programme cars were using FUCHS GT1 0W-20
OVERK1ll - You said this;
"I would imagine the oil viscosity that Porsche runs in LeMans is not the same as they spec for the Carerra....?"
Porsche and many privateers mainly use M1 0W-40. I'll know more after an update at Zuffenhausen in April
At one stage here in OZ the Porsche GT race programme cars were using FUCHS GT1 0W-20
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Doug any experience with Penrite Sin 0W50 ? Seems to meet all the right specs for oil and manufacturers. Very wide viscosity range.
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