Hi guys, first post here..
I drive a bmw 1600 gasoline e87 natural aspired. I have conclude some info about oils and I would like to share it with you.Feel free to contribute,argue e.tc..
from new 2010,i used to go with dealers oils,bmw-castrol 5-30 until 2015 and bmw-shell until 2017.then i moved to castrol again titanium edge 5-30 because with the bmw-shell was disappointed. this year i changed to castrol edge 5-30 M. higher viscosity and flash point and lspi protection ,sn plus which is not meant to be useful for my engine ,its for turbocharged ,but a good protection could be useful. after all my engine is prone to lspi.
now i want to try another brand.i wanted mobil ,but no 5-30 approval anymore.i know, it doesn't ,matter but i want to go with the book. and recipe changed ,mot mush ester/pao anymore.so lets go to motul.100% synthetic? no..thats not the case. hc from now and on.maybe they have some different recipe but its hc.no much ester/pao here anymore too.from analysis just some 1-5% ester but all of my friends like motul.actually there arent any real synthetics anymore ,except the us ones,redline,amsoil,torco,bardahl..but there were complains with them.maybe a bit heavy mixure for our engines these pao/ester mix..
so i am liking to motul.
and this is the question.which one for my engine? i want to choose one and for the rest of the engine's life not to change.i have 120.000 km.i have to choose between the x-clean series which is ll04 norm and the x-cess series which is ll01. now luckily my engine takes both.but which is better for my engine considering that our fuel in Europe are with less ethanol and low saps.
First of all my engine doesn't have a leak problem.doesn't burn oil.I change every 6 months maybe thats why.So my first question is..
5-30 or 5-40?
second //
X-clean or x-cess line?
Now if I could easily find the motul bmw specific ll04 5-40 all my problems would have been solved,but its rare and I have to shop online from another country.Best was united kingdom but with Brexit not anymore..
Does ambient temps play a major role to choosing the viscosity? Our temps is above 5 C in winter and above 35 C during summer.sould I consider outside temp or engine temp is all that matters because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?
Or go with 5-40 to be safe? motul by the way places as specific for bmws a 5-40 oil.
t.Another criteria for choosing viscosity is the use. I do a lot of start-stop,short distances intown for 70% during the year.I know that more frequent changes is the cure,but does viscosity has to do with the protection of the engine too? Which is better for that use,5-30 or 5-40? a heavy -30 , a light -40 or a normal -40 close to 14 kv?Opinions vary. bearings bmw for my model,from 0-30,0-40,5-30,5-40. although oils tend to be thinner through the years. x clean and x cess gen 2 oils are much thinner than gen 1. it has to do with the new tighter engines.
So to sum up..
81005-30 x clean +
81005-30 x cleanefe
5-40 x clean 8100 line, similar to motul specific ll04 5-40 bmw ,as far as tech sheet concern
or 5-40 x cess 8100 line
oh and there is one mobil
mobil super3000 xe1,5-30
And then it's the fuel.If I choose the latter 5-40 x cess with more saps ..Will these full saps harm my fuel emission system? Which is used to mid-low saps oil and low saps gasoline? Someone ,Gokhan i think from this forum, claimed that a 25% less protection-wear is if go with mid saps.True?
so what flash point and viscosity tell us really?
i mean,comparing data from 3 same weight oils.
castrol 5-30 M
flash point 228
viscosity 173
kv 12
motul 8100 x clean + 5-30
flash point 226
viscosity 167
kv 11,8
motul 8100 x clean efe 5-30
flash point 232
viscosity 169
kv 12,1
mobil super3000 xe1 5-30
flash point 232
kv 12
viscosity ?
i mean , i read all these stuff for about a year and still don't know if an oil with higher viscosity or flash point is better from another or is just the recipe of the base oil which makes oil better,which we will never learn from msds.
Which motul one to select? or stay with castrol edge M ? i am between these 2 brands. Please tell me your opinion.
p.s i read that if i change brand oil and/or viscosity i have to make an engine flush but not with specific chemicals ,but using the next oil..for example.if i run castrol 5-30 and want to go to motul 5-30 or 5-40 i have to make an engine flush like this..
first i empty the old oil..castrol 5-30..then i put back the empty tap /screw and fill about half of the new oil that i will use,meaning motul 5-30 and start the engine running for 10 minutes.then stop the engine and empty the new oil again.engine is empty and ready to fill with the new oil motul 5-30..
we do that because we want to fully empty the engine from the additives and chemical synthesis of the old oil..if the old oil is not flushed this way then the additives and chemicals from the old and new will struggle with each-other which one to remain and there will be a mixture of oils and might for the worse for the engine protection and wear until one of them wins.so its better to fully clean the engine from old molcules . what is your opinion,is it a myth? if so then why all the experts claim that you need 2-3 changes for the new oil to get the real benefits for the engine?
sorry for my first long post and thank you for your answers..
I drive a bmw 1600 gasoline e87 natural aspired. I have conclude some info about oils and I would like to share it with you.Feel free to contribute,argue e.tc..
from new 2010,i used to go with dealers oils,bmw-castrol 5-30 until 2015 and bmw-shell until 2017.then i moved to castrol again titanium edge 5-30 because with the bmw-shell was disappointed. this year i changed to castrol edge 5-30 M. higher viscosity and flash point and lspi protection ,sn plus which is not meant to be useful for my engine ,its for turbocharged ,but a good protection could be useful. after all my engine is prone to lspi.
now i want to try another brand.i wanted mobil ,but no 5-30 approval anymore.i know, it doesn't ,matter but i want to go with the book. and recipe changed ,mot mush ester/pao anymore.so lets go to motul.100% synthetic? no..thats not the case. hc from now and on.maybe they have some different recipe but its hc.no much ester/pao here anymore too.from analysis just some 1-5% ester but all of my friends like motul.actually there arent any real synthetics anymore ,except the us ones,redline,amsoil,torco,bardahl..but there were complains with them.maybe a bit heavy mixure for our engines these pao/ester mix..
so i am liking to motul.
and this is the question.which one for my engine? i want to choose one and for the rest of the engine's life not to change.i have 120.000 km.i have to choose between the x-clean series which is ll04 norm and the x-cess series which is ll01. now luckily my engine takes both.but which is better for my engine considering that our fuel in Europe are with less ethanol and low saps.
First of all my engine doesn't have a leak problem.doesn't burn oil.I change every 6 months maybe thats why.So my first question is..
5-30 or 5-40?
second //
X-clean or x-cess line?
Now if I could easily find the motul bmw specific ll04 5-40 all my problems would have been solved,but its rare and I have to shop online from another country.Best was united kingdom but with Brexit not anymore..
Does ambient temps play a major role to choosing the viscosity? Our temps is above 5 C in winter and above 35 C during summer.sould I consider outside temp or engine temp is all that matters because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?
Or go with 5-40 to be safe? motul by the way places as specific for bmws a 5-40 oil.
t.Another criteria for choosing viscosity is the use. I do a lot of start-stop,short distances intown for 70% during the year.I know that more frequent changes is the cure,but does viscosity has to do with the protection of the engine too? Which is better for that use,5-30 or 5-40? a heavy -30 , a light -40 or a normal -40 close to 14 kv?Opinions vary. bearings bmw for my model,from 0-30,0-40,5-30,5-40. although oils tend to be thinner through the years. x clean and x cess gen 2 oils are much thinner than gen 1. it has to do with the new tighter engines.
So to sum up..
81005-30 x clean +
81005-30 x cleanefe
5-40 x clean 8100 line, similar to motul specific ll04 5-40 bmw ,as far as tech sheet concern
or 5-40 x cess 8100 line
oh and there is one mobil
mobil super3000 xe1,5-30
And then it's the fuel.If I choose the latter 5-40 x cess with more saps ..Will these full saps harm my fuel emission system? Which is used to mid-low saps oil and low saps gasoline? Someone ,Gokhan i think from this forum, claimed that a 25% less protection-wear is if go with mid saps.True?
so what flash point and viscosity tell us really?
i mean,comparing data from 3 same weight oils.
castrol 5-30 M
flash point 228
viscosity 173
kv 12
motul 8100 x clean + 5-30
flash point 226
viscosity 167
kv 11,8
motul 8100 x clean efe 5-30
flash point 232
viscosity 169
kv 12,1
mobil super3000 xe1 5-30
flash point 232
kv 12
viscosity ?
i mean , i read all these stuff for about a year and still don't know if an oil with higher viscosity or flash point is better from another or is just the recipe of the base oil which makes oil better,which we will never learn from msds.
Which motul one to select? or stay with castrol edge M ? i am between these 2 brands. Please tell me your opinion.
p.s i read that if i change brand oil and/or viscosity i have to make an engine flush but not with specific chemicals ,but using the next oil..for example.if i run castrol 5-30 and want to go to motul 5-30 or 5-40 i have to make an engine flush like this..
first i empty the old oil..castrol 5-30..then i put back the empty tap /screw and fill about half of the new oil that i will use,meaning motul 5-30 and start the engine running for 10 minutes.then stop the engine and empty the new oil again.engine is empty and ready to fill with the new oil motul 5-30..
we do that because we want to fully empty the engine from the additives and chemical synthesis of the old oil..if the old oil is not flushed this way then the additives and chemicals from the old and new will struggle with each-other which one to remain and there will be a mixture of oils and might for the worse for the engine protection and wear until one of them wins.so its better to fully clean the engine from old molcules . what is your opinion,is it a myth? if so then why all the experts claim that you need 2-3 changes for the new oil to get the real benefits for the engine?
sorry for my first long post and thank you for your answers..